Direction/advice needed...thanks in advance.

bleubeans

Seaman Apprentice
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May 4, 2011
Messages
32
Re: Direction/advice needed...thanks in advance.

If you are asking my opinion....yes you can do one cylinder. Leave the other as is.
The shop saying out of round....I don't know about that one. As clean as that engine looks, it probably is just scuffed and needs boring due to the cyl scratches. Ask them to measure it while you are there. Look at the numbers they measure. It only takes a few mins.
That engine looks clean as a whistle, and I wouldn't hesitate to re-build it based on the pics you posted. I think that was a good call on your part.

It is important to have a shop that is well familiar with boring outboards. The boring block is different in that it needs to be able to bore a "blind hole". This is a cylinder bore that has metal at the bottom that the boring bar cannot pass by. Look in there. You will see where the rod comes up from the crank thru a slot, and no boring machine can go past that slot. That is a "blind hole". Needs a boring bar that can go to the bottom of that hole.

Any way it is, tho, you need to bore to oversize, probably due to cyl scratching and aluminum transfer from the piston to the cyl wall.
The piston and ring SET should probably cost you no more than 70 bucks or so. That is aftermarket. If you go BRP, it will be more. Look it up on shop.evinrude.com to get an idea before you turn the shop guys loose with your wallet. (Just an estimate based on buying V6 looper pistons.)

FIND OUT what caused the failure, or it will happen again.

Thanks, I'm prolly gonna drop it off with the shop tomorrow. This guy does all the machining on the more reputable marine shops around town so I think he's competent. I'll probably just have him order the piston for me as well. He said that total cost doing it myself wouldn't be but about $200 vs. $1,800-$2,000 from a repair shop. I will address the lean issue so this won't happen again. I'll probably use no ethanol fuel in it like I do with my Honda outboard. Plus, I don't let anything sit around long enough for the fuel to go bad. But i would be willing to bet the previous owner let it sit for a good while. He mentioned that to me when i bought it. Maybe the old gas was the problem..we'll see. Thanks for the input/information and i'll post more to this thread as i progress with this project.
 

beagleboy

Seaman
Joined
Apr 15, 2011
Messages
66
Re: Direction/advice needed...thanks in advance.

The block is set up on the centre bore so do both holes, you have to do one piston how much is the second. Do a proper job and you won't have problems for years.
 

bleubeans

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Joined
May 4, 2011
Messages
32
Re: Direction/advice needed...thanks in advance.

Well I dropped the block off today to get bored and new pistons ordered. Total so far---$250. Also ordering a gasket kit and assembly lube...total should be Just a little over $300. Will blue loctite work on the rod bolts? I should have it all back and ready for assembly by Wednesday.
 

RogersJetboat454

Commander
Joined
Jul 9, 2010
Messages
2,964
Re: Direction/advice needed...thanks in advance.

Well I dropped the block off today to get bored and new pistons ordered. Total so far---$250. Also ordering a gasket kit and assembly lube...total should be Just a little over $300. Will blue loctite work on the rod bolts? I should have it all back and ready for assembly by Wednesday.

Well, a word of caution on the rod bolts. There is a good chance that the rod bolts are torque-to-yield, which basically means that when they were installed new, they stretched out a certain amount. Once torque-to-yield bolts have been used, they can't be used again. For re-assembly you WILL need a BRP service manual, which will detail if the rod bolts are reusable or not, and what the torque sequence of the bolts should be.
 

bleubeans

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 4, 2011
Messages
32
Re: Direction/advice needed...thanks in advance.

Well I got the motor back together and it went pretty easy. I had both cylinders bored .002 over. I have to wait on an impeller now. Everywhere I called it was on back order. I found one on ebay for a good price though.
Everything went back together smoothly except the dang stator/timing base #1, #7, #8, #82 in this link:
http://shop2.evinrude.com/Index.aspx?s1=7pjmgjmuivnq80dhindur7e2a6&catalog_id=0&siteid=1
There is the three little metal tabs on the base(plate)...I installed them so they have the angle upwards. When i put the timer base assembly(#7) on with the little plastic retainer (#8) it binds up when i move the timing advance forward but this is only when the stator is installed. Otherwise, it works smooth. When i remove the retainer and install everything it works great. My question is : Can i remove this @#$% plastic retainer or is it vital? I have no clue. BTW, i hate electrical/ignition work....I am ignorant to most of it really...lol.
I got the Seloc manual and it is full of good information but not anything like that. Even though the carbs were like brand new I have the soaking now and i will thoroughly clean them before i install. I have a few days to kill before the impeller arrives anyway.

Well that didn't work so here is a pic:
convert.png
 
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