Dismantling controls- 1972 Johnson 65 hydro-electric

DJacksonRN

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OK, lower unit OK (no water in fluid), solenoids operational in foot, starter works, oiled cylinders, new fluid in foot, ordered impeller. Though gapped correctly, I'm unable to test plugs due to incorrect ignition key (just ordered). I'm going to have to get into the control box to replace the throttle cable anyway, so I figured that while waiting for the key and the impeller, I'd open the control box and assess for any broken pieces. I've been inside OMC controls before, but never a hydro-electric set. Anyone with experience have any recommendations or documented pictures/process before I crack this thing open?
 

F_R

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Re: Dismantling controls- 1972 Johnson 65 hydro-electric

It is pretty simple. In fact simpler than the mechanical shift ones because there is a simple shift switch instead of the more complicated cable shifting mechanism. If you can do the cable type, you can do this one.
 

jay_merrill

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Re: Dismantling controls- 1972 Johnson 65 hydro-electric

Pretty simple.

Remove the unit from the side rail, mounting plate or however you have it attached to the boat. Remove three countersunk screws on the back side. You will need a number 1 philips head for this.

When you split the halves, be careful of a cam roller that fits on the throttle lever in the box. It looks like a "ball cap" (my term) and it fits within a groove (lever cam) in the throttle handle's base.

There is also a plastic guard (lead retainer) in the box - they tend to get brittle, so be careful of it. The same is true of the "ears" on the shift switch, so be careful of that. In general, if you don't have to remove something, don't - leave it alone.

As long as you are going to be opening the box anyway, do the hot horn test first. If the horn is bad, you may as well replace it too. The replacement horns are stupidly expensive, but you can still get them. That said, there is a kit for the newer control boxes that includes a horn. Sometimes the dealers don't need to use the horn in the kit, so they have extras lying around. I replaced mine an my dealer actually gave the thing to me, because I do a lo of business with him.

The new horns are red (not "silver) and are smaller than the old one. You can still use them though. There is a plastic mounting bracket for the horn (which also might be brittle, so ber careful) and you can place the new horn within it, running the wires under the the bottom, to hold it in place.

Your new key switch will probably have two leads for the purple circuits, instead of the one that was on the original switches. Both of these leads are tied to a common "bar" (you'll see what I mean when you look at it) and are there, just because there are a lot of purple wires and having two posts instead of one, makes life easier.

Thgat's about all I can think of, off the top of my head. I'll post again, if I think of other issues/concerns.



???
 

DJacksonRN

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Re: Dismantling controls- 1972 Johnson 65 hydro-electric

OK, couple of questions to add...

I found an ignition and key from a 2000 Johnson 90 with the "push in the key to choke" feature. I will admit that I'm impatient, so the thought of swapping this ignition in and cancelling the keys I ordered for what looks to be the original ignition switch is tempting. The choke for the '72 65 is toggle operated. Does anyone have experience swapping in the push to actuate type ignition? Another perhaps stupid question that I never thought about....with the toggle type choke, I assume (perhaps mistakenly) that the carbs will be choked until I return the toggle to it's off position. How does the push to actuate type switch turn off the choke? Is this worth it? I'm jonesing to see if the shift actuating switch still works.... Last, if I do swap it in, how do I tell which of the "M" points on the back of the ignition is the ground, and which is the emergency cut-off?
 

DJacksonRN

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Re: Dismantling controls- 1972 Johnson 65 hydro-electric

Also:

Horn works, though it sounds none too sweet. I am guessing that the sound it makes would not just get me to notice that the temp is up, but might also make any passengers pee their pants in fear.... Shift mechanism looks intact, will clean, de and regrease this weekend...

Can I jumper the red and purple wires on the back of the ignition just to assess the shifter mechanism function? No need for starter, I just want to verify that they actuate the solenoids when the shift lever is operated....

Did I mention that I'm impatient?
 

STARCRAFT16SS

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Mar 25, 2008
Messages
344
Re: Dismantling controls- 1972 Johnson 65 hydro-electric

hmmmm... got the controls apart...did you ever have a tach wired in?
I forget which wire it was for my 1971 60hp johnson with electric shift
but I had to hook one of the tack wires to a wire in the controls to get the
tach to work...as long as your there.....:rolleyes::D
 

DJacksonRN

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Re: Dismantling controls- 1972 Johnson 65 hydro-electric

No tach in the old Bonito that was literally rotting and being crushed by the engine. Engine seemed very clean, if i had to estimate i would say no more than 250 hours total. I'm enjoying working and reading about these older engines. I consider reviving this one a challenge!
 

jay_merrill

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5,653
Re: Dismantling controls- 1972 Johnson 65 hydro-electric

Also:

Horn works, though it sounds none too sweet. I am guessing that the sound it makes would not just get me to notice that the temp is up, but might also make any passengers pee their pants in fear.... Shift mechanism looks intact, will clean, de and regrease this weekend...

Can I jumper the red and purple wires on the back of the ignition just to assess the shifter mechanism function? No need for starter, I just want to verify that they actuate the solenoids when the shift lever is operated....

Did I mention that I'm impatient?

Get yourself a proper manual for this engine. You can find them in a variety of places, with Ebay being a good source at a reasonable price. Stay away from the generic manuals that try to cover many engines and avoid the CD manuals - most of them are bootleg and not very good.

There is a specific procedure for testing the solenoids and you should follow it, not experiment. The upper solenoid for this motor is close to becoming NLA and the lower solenoid already is - don't risk messing them up!

The electric choke will hold the choke butterflys only as long as the switch is activated. Be aware, also, that there is a thermally actuated choke on your motor. As originally wired, it activates half of the two stage choke solenoid on the motor. If you use the toggle, it will activate the "other half."

OMC issued a Service Bulletin (see below), which recommends that the thermal choke be disabled. Be sure to pay attention the directions to install a jumper across terminals 7 & 8, so that the toggle gives you full activation of the choke.


JohnsonSB1335.jpg




???
 
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