distibutor advance problem

[andrewterri]

I think I am having an advance problem. The engine is an 89 mercruiser 3.0. I set the timing and the engine runs smooth when in gear, however it shakes in neutral still. My other problem is when I adjusted my throttle cable to put slight pressure on the cable to take up the slack because my idle was to high the boat will not start. I have to pump gas in through the accelerator pump to get it running and it is barley running for about 15 seconds then runs fine. I was thinking it is the distributor not advancing correctly. What do you guys think? I am going back to the lake today and was going to set the timing again while in neutral using the light with the help of a friend and see of that helps the shaking but not sure what to do about the starting cold issue. Thank you in advance...

 

[bruceb58]

The distributor advance will have nothing to do with a cold start issue.

 

[andrewterri]

I am reading the direction now on the harbor fright timing light I bought. The light is a cen-tech and there is a dial on the back. The directions say it is an advance and I left it on zero when I checked the timing. I am wonder if I did it right. I follow the directions in the sticky section although I do not remember who wrote then but did a great job. I let the engine warm up on the muffs, hooked the timing light up and left the dial at zero then set at 8 degrees BTDC. I am trying to find in the directions if I was suppose to set the dial on the gun to 8 degrees also. If anyone's knows please tell me know as these directions are less than clear.

 

[andrewterri]

Thank you bruceb58, is the cold starting issue just a timing issue?

 

[Maclin]

With engine running start with the timing light dial at 0, then turn the timing light dial to where the light lines up with the 0 mark on the balancer. Then the number on the dial is the degrees before top dead center that the distributor is set at now. If it is not 8-10 then turn the distributor until it is in that range. You can also set the dial to 8 then set the distributor where the light is at the 0 mark.

 

[Maclin]

The cold start you are experiencing sounds normal for a carbureted engine. Pump throttle in throttle-only mode a couple of times, then leave open just past idle and crank. Should start right up, and only need the extra throttle for a few moments as the choke kicks in and then begins to pull off.

 

[andrewterri]

Awesome, thank you Maclin. One more question, does turning the distributor clockwise advance or retard the timing?

 

[Bt Doctur]

Idle adjustment:
Remove control cable , holding slight pressure on lever to close throttle, adjust mixture for the highest rpm, adjust IDLE SPEED screw for the correct idle speed,
reattach cable with slight pressure to close throttle lever.

On carb`d motors:
Set choke plate to be closed on a 1/8 inch drill bit, loosen 3 screws, rotate heater element, tighten screws
Set control to throttle only, pump handel 3-4 times, set to slightly above idle, start motor.
Verify accelerator pump is squirting gas into the carb body

 

[Maclin]

I am not sure which way the engine turns the inside of the distributor on the 3.0. But you can find out easily enough by taking the distributor cap off and then turning the rotor. It should move a ways, then snap back, and by the way the movement should be smooth. That is the mechanical advance, and it moves in the same direction of the way the engine is turning the insides of the distributor. Now, when setting the static timing with the distributor, moving the distributor housing in the same direction of the way the engine is turning the insides retards the timing. Moving the distributor housing in the opposite direction of the way the engine is turning the insides will advance the timing. Just move in small steps and check right after to gain confidence.

Once you get the initial timing set you may find it interesting to take some time to watch the mechanical advance while the light is still hooked up. Mechanical advance is activated with swing-out weights and springs, and kicks in as the RPM's climb. At idle the springs you felt when moving the rotor should keep the swing-out weights pulled in, so you can set the initial, or static, timing. Once the RPM's get past 1500 or so the weights inside should begin to move the rotor ahead. You will notice the flashing light moving away from you. Spin the engine up to 2500 or so for just a moment, dial the light back to 0 and then the dial will show you what the total advance is. The mechanical is adding some advance, and that plus the static gives the total. Just be sure to have a good full water supply to the muffs when going past the 1500 rpm's momentarily.

 

[andrewterri]

thank you guys. I will do everything suggested today. The quicksilver 3000 remote that was on the boat stripped the internal gears so I bought a replacement control and there is not a throttle only and boy do I regret it. Lesson learned, only buy a control box that has a throttle only setting :facepalm:

 

[Maclin]

There may be a throttle only, just not activated with a button. Try moving the entire lever out by placing your hand between the lever and the side of the boat, and move the bottom of the lever by twisting your hand clockwise.

 

[Bondo]

so I bought a replacement control and there is not a throttle only and boy do I regret it.

Ayuh,.... Which one is that,..??

I've never seen a controller that don't have throttle only,....

 

[andrewterri]

This is the control I have, it is a UFlex Single Lever Side-Mount Control For Mercruiser Stern Drives. I am going out to the boat now to try it.

 

[andrewterri]

I tried to copy and paste the picture but apparently it will not work. I am hoping you guys are right that it does have a throttle only as it would make starting only much easier

 

[Bt Doctur]

either the button pushes in or the control handel pulls out

 

[andrewterri]

there is not a button at the pivot point only a sticker. I am going to try and push it out.

 

[andrewterri]

I just found how to do it. you have to push out on the base. you guys don't know how much easier you just made my life launching. no more being embarrassed and lifting the engine hatch to unhook the cable and do it manually. thank you guys very much

 

[Maclin]

cool

 

[Bt Doctur]

Someday I`m going to write a book

 

[Maclin]

My other response was..."Yeah,, my first I/O was like that, had to open the hatch first time and move the throttle on the carb manually, did not have to unhook it on that one. Then the next weekend I looked closer at the lever and saw that that the design shape seemed to point to the whole lever being able to move out."

I have seen lots of posts here with the same issue, and it is not real obvious what to do if there is no button. When I see a post like that I have them check for that type of lever if no one has suggested it yet.