Distributor help!***Mission Accomplished***

WizeOne

Commander
Joined
Mar 23, 2008
Messages
2,097
This question is actually for my boat distrib, but anything that would apply there would be applicable to automotive as well. As such I thought I might get a wider response down here, rather than up in the I/O forum.

I have a 'phasing' issue on my Prestolite distrib, ie, that is that the rotor position is a full cylinder contact stud beyond a given cylinder when the timing light verifies that it is firing, at idle. Consequently you can see the fire wear off the back side tip of the rotor as it tries to spark back to the stud. I have verified this because I cut a hole in the top of the cap, between the coil post and the #1 cylinder post and can watch the firing position with my timing lite.

This distrib has a Pertronix II ignitor in it and I have verified that the trip magnets are in line with the old point cam high points (for point opening) and all line up with the center sweet spot of the ignitor.

At first I thought that the issue may be due to the placement of the drive gear on the distrib but subsequent examination shows that regardless of the lateral position of the gear teeth on the distrib shaft (each tooth spans 24 deg's) the relationship of the rotor, the trip magnets, the ignitor sweet spot and the terminals on the distributor shaft does not change.

It seems the only way to affect the phasing would be to rotate the distributor cap on the distrib body to the degree necessary to align the rotor tip to the cylinder stud at the point of fire OR to rotate the ignitor plate (equivalant point plate) inside the distrib body. The later, of course, would back up the sweet spot on the ignitor so that the corresponding magnet would trip it sooner.

It would be nearly impossible to rotate the cap and keep it secure because the cap keys into the bracket that hold the tie down clamps. I even thought of drilling the rivits and repositioning the hold down brackets but they are thru rivited to the brackets that the ignitor plate is screwed to; so that would knock the plate out of its position if those mounts were moved along with the outer brackets.

As such, I took the only route I could see and that was to rotate and redrill the ignitor plate. I devined a degree to move it by and redrilled the plate. I started the motor and verified that the ignitor was now firing when the rotor was square in front of the cap cylinder contact stud. So far so good.

I then went to re-check my base timing which I had verified before the alterations. Low and behold, the timing lite was now showing that the firing was taking place about 40 or so degrees(visually extrapolated as there are no degree marks that far on the damper) before top dead center. I am even surprised the motor would run.

I do not know what is going on at this point. The position of the damper mechanically corresponds to the position of the piston at any given point so I know that when the lite trips with the pointer at the 40 deg btdc area that is where the piston is located at that moment and that is not correct.

Anyone have any idea what I am missing here? I'm sure not many have peered inside a distrib while the motor is running but I am absolute sure that the rotor, at idle does not want to be sending a spark out to a plug once it is past the contact that needs to get it there.
 

JustJason

Vice Admiral
Joined
Aug 27, 2007
Messages
5,372
Re: Distributor help!

Re: Distributor help!

whaaaa???? this sounds way more difficult than your making out to be....
first, what are you working on.... and without useing complicated words.... what is your problem?

wizeone said:
It seems the only way to affect the phasing would be to rotate the distributor cap on the distrib body to the degree necessary to align the rotor tip to the cylinder stud at the point of fire

so.... why don't you rotate the distributor then...... that IS how you time an engine...
 

WizeOne

Commander
Joined
Mar 23, 2008
Messages
2,097
Re: Distributor help!

Re: Distributor help!

whaaaa???? this sounds way more difficult than your making out to be....
first, what are you working on.... and without useing complicated words.... what is your problem?



so.... why don't you rotate the distributor then...... that IS how you time an engine...

Cap'nJ, I will try to be as un-pendatic as I can.:p This is for a Ford 5.0 with a roller cam. Timing the motor is not the same as 'phasing' a distributor. When you rotate the dizzy (to set base timing) the relationship of the firing point of the rotor tip to any given cap cylinder stud does not change. All that changes is the time of fire in relationship to the position of the piston and of course the valves.

If that relationship (tip to cap stud) is out of whack, ie, the tip fires way before it reaches the stud or, as in my case, way after it passes that cylinder stud, then you have troubles as I have had for some time. I do not know how that happened unless the Pertronix plate was not engineered correctly. I never did this test when this Prestolite Marine centrifugal advance distributor was running with points.

Now I have set about to correct it (phasing) along with a gross mismatch in the height of the rotor tip in relation to the cap cylinder studs.. The latter I have already corrected. The height mismatch was about .092, placing the tip of the rotor well below the bottom end of the cap terminals. This not only caused a weak coil terminal contact (spring loaded) but, along with the mis-phasing, was causing the rotor to fire over to the sidewall of the cap. (black tracks were left on the sidewall)

To correct the height issue I a) removed the cap gasket, b) machined .080 off the mounting base of the distrib then spaced the distributor shaft up, using a .080 shim washer. This allowed the shaft to sit down over the oil pump drive shaft with the appropriate insertion and raised the rotor tip right up into the cap cylinder stud cut-out. Now I am working on getting the damn thing to fire when the rotor tip is smack in front of the stud instead of well past it. You could actually see the fire wear off the back side tip of the rotor blade.

Once again I have no idea how this height mismatch occured. The only plausible explanation is that the Napa (Elkin) aftermarket caps do not have the same dimensions that the orignal OEM caps had and unfortunately Napa is now the only game in town for these distribs. OEM caps are not available any longer.

Does that 'splain it well enough?
 

NoKlu

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 23, 2008
Messages
786
Re: Distributor help!

Re: Distributor help!

Unless you are doing the work for the challege of getting it to work it sounds to me like you should just junk it and get one that works.
 

Tail_Gunner

Admiral
Joined
Jan 13, 2006
Messages
6,237
Re: Distributor help!

Re: Distributor help!

So you are saying the coil is firing after the rotor passes the dist node... arching is the result along with a carbon build up.....is this a mechanical trip system or electronic.. ;)
 

xtraham

Lieutenant
Joined
Jul 20, 2006
Messages
1,425
Re: Distributor help!

Re: Distributor help!

describe the problem the engine has that made you look at this.
it sounds to me as if you are trying to over engineer this very simple thing.
when an engine is timed properly the rotor will fire after it passes the distributor post, unless the base timing is 0
 

WizeOne

Commander
Joined
Mar 23, 2008
Messages
2,097
Re: Distributor help!

Re: Distributor help!

So you are saying the coil is firing after the rotor passes the dist node... arching is the result along with a carbon build up.....is this a mechanical trip system or electronic.. ;)

Yes, that is the case and it was a centrifugal advance point distrib now converted to a magnetic pulse Pertronix II.

..and Xtraham, why would it fire, at idle (base timing at 10 deg btdc) after the post? I did watch the fire position as I increased the rpm and the relationship did not alter. The damper however showed that the timing was advancing as the rpm increased. I have been dropping cylinders with all the misfiring due to the cross arcing with all the misalignments.

I did look into getting a new electronic distributor but no one makes a marine distrib for a steel gear required roller cam SBF. Plus I was not interested in popping 350$ for one if they did.
 

Tail_Gunner

Admiral
Joined
Jan 13, 2006
Messages
6,237
Re: Distributor help!

Re: Distributor help!

describe the problem the engine has that made you look at this.
it sounds to me as if you are trying to over engineer this very simple thing.
when an engine is timed properly the rotor will fire after it passes the distributor post, unless the base timing is 0


;) And its a Ford.....So what trips the ignition...mechanical or electronic....damm west coast liberal minded over thinking....opps sorry JB..........:D
 

JustJason

Vice Admiral
Joined
Aug 27, 2007
Messages
5,372
Re: Distributor help!

Re: Distributor help!

base timing of 10 BTDC sounds like a bit much.... but... i don't have your serial ## of what engine your running and what specs your supposed to have.
Do you have the correct plugs??? are all your wires in good shape and ohm out good? You say you had the same problem with the points. Are the bushings in the distro good??? or is the shaft all over the place?
Your saying moving the distro doesn't change anything???
If you have so called "late firing".... is it because of excessive resitance someplace? to much of a gap between the rotor and cap (mismatched parts) or anything else?
Nice use of big words.... but you spelled it wrong :p there's not supposed to be an "N" there.
You need to simplify the problem... your definitely over thinking it.

So it is a ford.... what else is it... a merc, a volvo, a racecar???? what is your complaint with the engine? what is it not doing?
 

WizeOne

Commander
Joined
Mar 23, 2008
Messages
2,097
Re: Distributor help!

Re: Distributor help!

Nice use of big words.... but you spelled it wrong :p there's not supposed to be an "N" there. Just testing you Cap'n;)

"base timing of 10 BTDC sounds like a bit much.... but... i don't have your serial ## of what engine your running and what specs your supposed to have.
Do you have the correct plugs??? are all your wires in good shape and ohm out good? You say you had the same problem with the points. Are the bushings in the distro good??? or is the shaft all over the place?
Your saying moving the distro doesn't change anything???
If you have so called "late firing".... is it because of excessive resitance someplace? to much of a gap between the rotor and cap (mismatched parts) or anything else?

So it is a ford.... what else is it... a merc, a volvo, a racecar???? what is your complaint with the engine? what is it not doing?"

10 degrees it is for both the Merc 188 and the OMC 190. Mine happened to originally be the OMC flavor but the 302 went out the window in favor of a 5.0 roller cam motor. All other marine specific parts came off the old motor except for the edelbrock rpm mani and the holley marine 4160 4 bbl.

Plugs and wires are all new. When I say firing late I mean that the rotor has well passed by the cap cylinder terminal before the ignitor fires. That is a 'phasing' issue. Combine that with the now corrected rotor height issue and that poor spark didn't hardly know where to go. Some of the time it was firing to the inside cap wall. I did not have the trouble with the points because they went out the window when I installed the 5.0 motor.
 

MikDee

Banned
Joined
Jun 6, 2007
Messages
4,745
Re: Distributor help!

Re: Distributor help!

This is Not New to me, being the tinkerer that I am! I've seen this happen, apparently it's tolerance in machining, & design, or overtolerance! Many years ago I had a Chevy V8 points distributor that had this same mismatch problem, actually I noticed it before electronic igniton was even introduced in 1974 for GM. Just Like You, (I cut away part of the distributor cap) and found that For the high spot on the cam, rotor, & cap all to align, the breaker plate had to be moved forward a little :confused: I solved it by putting a bolt behind the vacuum advance mechanism as a spacer. I then realized it was an issue with every single Chevy V8 distributor :eek: and who knows what other type, or brand of distributors are, or were affected?

This mismatch seems to me to be an overwhelming, all too common issue, going on forever!, and I gave up trying to fix it yrs ago, just accepting it as is. "Don't fix it if it ain't broke!"
 

MikDee

Banned
Joined
Jun 6, 2007
Messages
4,745
Re: Distributor help!

Re: Distributor help!

Wizeone, Just to clarify, basically, what you're saying is that it's all in alignment now, but there too much advance appearing. What type of trigger is on the Pertronics unit in place of the points?
 

MikDee

Banned
Joined
Jun 6, 2007
Messages
4,745
Re: Distributor help!

Re: Distributor help!

After re-reading your orig post, I see you have a magnetic pickup, and electronic advance. So, what is the recommended procedure for setting your base timing on that Pertronics unit?
 

dolluper

Captain
Joined
Jul 19, 2004
Messages
3,909
Re: Distributor help!

Re: Distributor help!

Not knowing what engine #'s or dist #'s the only shot I have for you is drill a new locating pin hole in the base plate or drop dist on a different tooth
 

JustJason

Vice Admiral
Joined
Aug 27, 2007
Messages
5,372
Re: Distributor help!

Re: Distributor help!

Just a question then...... your saying turning the distributor in the direction of the rotor not correct the issue? correct???
Have tried pulling out the base plate and elongating the holes....? giving you the ability to turn the base plate back a couple of degrees.
One or the other has to fix it. It's either a late high tension discharge from the coil for whatever reason, or a late trigger telling the coil to fire late.
 

WizeOne

Commander
Joined
Mar 23, 2008
Messages
2,097
Re: Distributor help!

Re: Distributor help!

Just a question then...... your saying turning the distributor in the direction of the rotor not correct the issue? correct??? YES
Have tried pulling out the base plate and elongating the holes....? YES giving you the ability to turn the base plate back a couple of degrees.....

Here is a quote from my original post.

.....
As such, I took the only route I could see and that was to rotate and redrill the ignitor plate. I devined a degree to move it by and redrilled the plate. I started the motor and verified that the ignitor was now firing when the rotor was square in front of the cap cylinder contact stud. So far so good.

I then went to re-check my base timing which I had verified before the alterations. Low and behold, the timing lite was now showing that the firing was taking place about 40 or so degrees(visually extrapolated as there are no degree marks that far on the damper) before top dead center. I am even surprised the motor would run.....

My concern was that even after I reset the base timing, the motor ran crappy. But this was before I corrected the rotor height issue and may have been responsible for the dropped and intermittant firing of three of the rear cylinders. I am now setting out to re-run the engine with both issues corrected. Initially I had not verified the dropping of the cylinders so I thought something was wrong with my set-up.
 

JustJason

Vice Admiral
Joined
Aug 27, 2007
Messages
5,372
Re: Distributor help!

Re: Distributor help!

have you checked the timing mark on the balancer against TDC on #1 by pulling the spark plug and checking it with a screwdriver? Its not all that uncommon to have a spun balancer. Sounds silly... but 1 more thing to check.
 

MikDee

Banned
Joined
Jun 6, 2007
Messages
4,745
Re: Distributor help!

Re: Distributor help!

I then went to re-check my base timing which I had verified before the alterations. Low and behold, the timing lite was now showing that the firing was taking place about 40 or so degrees(visually extrapolated as there are no degree marks that far on the damper) before top dead center. I am even surprised the motor would run.

I do not know what is going on at this point. The position of the damper mechanically corresponds to the position of the piston at any given point so I know that when the lite trips with the pointer at the 40 deg btdc area that is where the piston is located at that moment and that is not correct.

Anyone have any idea what I am missing here? I'm sure not many have peered inside a distrib while the motor is running but I am absolute sure that the rotor, at idle does not want to be sending a spark out to a plug once it is past the contact that needs to get it there.

As I said, Just like you, I've been there, done that, indexing the breaker plate, thus indexing the dizzy.

If you have electronic advance, it needs some type of sensor or control device to sense when to advance the ignition when the engines running, and it also needs to have a base timing mode, so that you can set your initial (static) 10* advance timing. You say it's reading 40deg. advanced,,, When? am I to assume you mean at idle? Is so, it appears you have full electronic advance then, and did something wrong setting your base timing.

I repeat, What is the procedure for setting your base timing with that unit?
 
Top