DJ my 40hp rude needs more help
Remember me?. I had a 1985 rude 40hp vro(disconnected)electric remote. As suggested, I swapped a good used powerhead and every component that was attached to it to my engine that had a blown #2 cylinder. Took it out for first test run. Engine started easily and idled smoothly. I made all necessary linkages and timing adjustment according to the manual. So far so good. Shifted into gear and started out at 2500rpm. No problem. Taking my time I got out of the harbor(twenty minutes)and then I gradually increase throttle. Got up to 5000 rpm but I wasn't going fast(I'm not worry, engine sound smooth, maybe tach off). Then I pushed(forced)the throttle further and the boat just took off. I saw the tach hit 7000 and I backed it down to 5500rpm. I'm cruising now for a few minute @5500 thinking I fixed the problem and I fishing again until the engine started to "buck", tach needle wavering, engine power surging. Get the picture. Double check all settings and tried different timing settings. No change. But before I came in I remember what you said and when I squeezed the primer bulb the power always return and engine would run smooth for a few minutes. I did this all morning and it never failed. Fuel filter always full. Power restored each timer after pumping bulb.<br />As suggested by several topics here's what I did beforehand. Portable fuel tank w/fresh gas, 50:1 mix, can of Sea-Foam, new fuel line w/ bulb, new fuel hoses in engine compartment,and new spark plugs. I took apart four carbs to inspect and clean, using solvent and a thin wire to clear the passages and needles. Installed the best two. Believe me, there nothing in those carbs now. I took apart one fuel pump for inspection and it look brand new, held vaccuum and manually I can pump fuel out. As I mention above, the coils and power pack and wiring etc. all came with this engine.<br />What scares me is this might be the same problem I had two years ago that might have lead to the damages to my original powerhead. I don't want to go through this again. How can this be? Original problem still there yet every component got inspected, replaced or swapped. I spent days and nights trying to find problems. What did I overlook? Caphank. <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Remember me?. I had a 1985 rude 40hp vro(disconnected)electric remote. As suggested, I swapped a good used powerhead and every component that was attached to it to my engine that had a blown #2 cylinder. Took it out for first test run. Engine started easily and idled smoothly. I made all necessary linkages and timing adjustment according to the manual. So far so good. Shifted into gear and started out at 2500rpm. No problem. Taking my time I got out of the harbor(twenty minutes)and then I gradually increase throttle. Got up to 5000 rpm but I wasn't going fast(I'm not worry, engine sound smooth, maybe tach off). Then I pushed(forced)the throttle further and the boat just took off. I saw the tach hit 7000 and I backed it down to 5500rpm. I'm cruising now for a few minute @5500 thinking I fixed the problem and I fishing again until the engine started to "buck", tach needle wavering, engine power surging. Get the picture. Double check all settings and tried different timing settings. No change. But before I came in I remember what you said and when I squeezed the primer bulb the power always return and engine would run smooth for a few minutes. I did this all morning and it never failed. Fuel filter always full. Power restored each timer after pumping bulb.<br />As suggested by several topics here's what I did beforehand. Portable fuel tank w/fresh gas, 50:1 mix, can of Sea-Foam, new fuel line w/ bulb, new fuel hoses in engine compartment,and new spark plugs. I took apart four carbs to inspect and clean, using solvent and a thin wire to clear the passages and needles. Installed the best two. Believe me, there nothing in those carbs now. I took apart one fuel pump for inspection and it look brand new, held vaccuum and manually I can pump fuel out. As I mention above, the coils and power pack and wiring etc. all came with this engine.<br />What scares me is this might be the same problem I had two years ago that might have lead to the damages to my original powerhead. I don't want to go through this again. How can this be? Original problem still there yet every component got inspected, replaced or swapped. I spent days and nights trying to find problems. What did I overlook? Caphank. <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------