Do I need anode(s)??? Outdrive painted?

SuperNova

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Re: Do I need anode(s)??? Outdrive painted?

No kidding--I thought is was just the s.s. in close proximity to the aluminum. But it must the water as well. Learn something new every day.
--
Stan
 

stevieray

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Re: Do I need anode(s)??? Outdrive painted?

No kidding--I thought is was just the s.s. in close proximity to the aluminum. But it must the water as well. Learn something new every day.
--
Stan

Major part of the galvanic equation is the conductivity of the electrolyte (water in this case). Salty or polluted water has much higher conductivity than clean fresh water, thus the bigger metal loss.
 

Limited-Time

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Re: Do I need anode(s)??? Outdrive painted?

FWIW, seems to me I read somewhere anti-fouling paint on a outdrive is a no,no (it may have been a certain type). Had something to do with the combo of anodes and paint properites not working together. It may have been in Trailer Boats Mag, but I can't be sure.
 

Zackman

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Dec 3, 2005
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Re: Do I need anode(s)??? Outdrive painted?

You can't just spray or brush paint on to aluminum like you can some other metals. The aluminum needs to properly prepared and primed. Here is Mercruiser's "Factory Authorized" procedure.

This if from the Mercruiser Website

http://northamerica.mercurymarine.c.../mercruiserfaqs/technicalinformation.php#1135

Refinishing procedure:

This procedure should be used in refinishing MerCruiser sterndrives and transom plates. This procedure will provide the most durable paint system available in the field. The listed materials should be purchased from a local DITZLER AUTOMOTIVE finish supply outlet. The minimum packaged quantity of each material shown is sufficient to refinish several sterndrives and transom assemblies.

1 QT. DX-533 Alumiprep #33 metal preparation
1 QT. DX-503 Alodine #1201 conversion coating
1 QT. DP-40 Non sanding Epoxy Primer zinc chromate primer
1 QT. DP-401 Catalyst for DP-40
1 QT. DAR-9000 Acrylic Enamel-black topcoat
1 Pt. DXR-80 Delthane Ultra-additive for acrylic enamel
1 QT. DTR-602 Acrylic Enamel Reducer-temperature range 70-90 degree F.

PROCEDURE:

1. Scuff sand to remove all blistered paint and roughen factory finish. Remove sanding dust.
2. Follow manufacturer's recommendations and instructions on the individual containers.
3. Apply DX-533 (Alumiprep #33) to clean and condition the aluminum.
4. Apply DX-503 (Alodine #1201) brush on chemical conversion coating for aluminum.
5. The DP-40 (Epoxy Chromate Primer) mixed with DP-401 Catalyst can now be applied. A .75 mil film build is recommended.
NOTE: Allow 30 minute induction period for permeation of the epoxy chromate primer and the catalyst prior to application.
6. The topcoat consists of DAR-9000 Acrylic Enamel Black and the DXR-80 Delthane Ultra additive, and DTR-602 Reducer. It is a polyurethane acrylic enamel system which provides fast drying, durability, high resistance to corrosion and good color and gloss retention.
7. The type of spray gun used will determine the proper reduction ratio IMPORTANT: DO NOT use any type of aerosol spray paints, as the paint will not properly adhere to the surface, nor will the coating be sufficiently thick to resist future paint blistering.
NOTE: DO NOT PAINT SACRIFICIAL ANODES.

Some people are having good success with Epoxy instead of Acrylic based paints and are not using zinc based primers (for corrosion reasons), but unless you are going to strip all the paint, I think the above is the way to go.
 

Bondo

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Re: Do I need anode(s)??? Outdrive painted?

Stan,.....
I wonder if you might have done Something Else at about the same time, that might have set up an Electrolic, rather than Galvanic thing going on,..??..??....

Were you doing any Wiring around then,..??..??....
 

Gary H NC

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Re: Do I need anode(s)??? Outdrive painted?

Great example of a SS prop in a fairly clean freshwater lake.Neglected anodes..
ChrisCraft009.jpg
 

I/O WALDO

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Nov 16, 2005
Messages
320
Re: Do I need anode(s)??? Outdrive painted?

If your boat is left connected to shore power all the time it can develop major electrolitic damage.Using a galvanic isolator solves that problem.On drive pant I have GREAT luck with CLEAN IT TO SHINY METAL,PRIME WITH ZINC CHROMATE,TOP WITH BLACK TRUCK BED COATING.(Waterproof,abrasion resistant,extremly adhesive,smooth and paintable)FOLLOWED BY INTERLUX TRILUX BLACK ANTIFOULING (it's for aluminum)TO STOP SLIME AND OTHER GROWTH.Last all year.
 

SuperNova

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Re: Do I need anode(s)??? Outdrive painted?

No, Bondo the only thing I did was swap the stainless prop on. I even was still boating in the same waters, which is a blend of fresh lake and resevoir water and dirty Upper Chesapeake water which is brackish. No wiring changes and I even went over it to make sure my ground paths were still good.

I looked at a boat once where the anodes had been ignored and was running stainless down in Barnegat Bay. It look like that picture, plus the stainless props had holes eaten in them also.
--
Stan
 

fendersfender

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Mar 23, 2005
Messages
317
Re: Do I need anode(s)??? Outdrive painted?

yepper.....i keep my boat in freshwater and was replacing zincs twice a year with stainless props....went back to aluminum props and my zincs last much longer now
 

tmh

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Aug 16, 2006
Messages
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Re: Do I need anode(s)??? Outdrive painted?

just to follow-up on the thread I started.....thanks again to the help here I did the paint job a couple days ago and it went much easier than I had expected. Sanded, ecid cleaned a bit, two coats of primer and two of finish. Looks great, pretty easy once folks here explained how to me.

My anodes are in fine shape alos, so one less worry.

On to the next job.......

Thanks again.
 

Coors

Captain
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Dec 8, 2006
Messages
3,367
Re: Do I need anode(s)??? Outdrive painted?

I'm sure they all are common amongst brands as far as electrolis? Am I wrong? On an OMC , if the little wires aren't hooked up to the o/d, gimbal, and tran plate; life is not good.
 
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