Does my engine sound OK?

MikeDobbs

Petty Officer 1st Class
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May 8, 2015
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I would say you have the valve train as good as your going to get it. The fact it starts good now says there were issues with the cylinders sealing.

Now you just need to decide on that ticking.

mike

Ok good- that's what I was thinking. So, what are everyone's thoughts on changing oil and using rislene or miracle oil, vs swapping out the lifters as a next step?
 

pro-crastinator

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Dec 12, 2013
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453
The camshaft pushes on the lifter. (either solid or hydraulic)
The lifter pushes on the pushrod.
The pushrod pushes on the rocker arm.

I would focus on the lifters and pushrods.
Since the mechanics stethescope yielded no surprises, I would surmise the rocker arms are lubing fine.
bent pushrod or failed lifter is my "bet".
 

MikeDobbs

Petty Officer 1st Class
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May 8, 2015
Messages
205
The camshaft pushes on the lifter. (either solid or hydraulic)
The lifter pushes on the pushrod.
The pushrod pushes on the rocker arm.

I would focus on the lifters and pushrods.
Since the mechanics stethescope yielded no surprises, I would surmise the rocker arms are lubing fine.
bent pushrod or failed lifter is my "bet".


I've ruled out a bent pushrod- pulled them all and rolled on a pane of glass yesterday. So, I just ordered a new set of 8 risers from iboats :)

With a little luck, I'll get those in without any major headaches and the noise will be gone this weekend. I'll post back with an update when finished. In the meantime, if anyone has any advice on things to be careful about, or to look out for, or procedure for replacing the risers- I'm all ears :)

The manual has very little information about the process. Is there any special lube I should put on them since they mate directly with the camshaft? Or is regular engine oil sufficient? Thanks in advance, and thanks for all the help with this so far everyone :)
 
Joined
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3,008
Sorry to correct you... but I think you mean lifters. The riser is on the exhaust of the engine. Engine oil will be fine to coat the lifters with.

I have my fingers crossed for you on this. If the new lifters don't cure this, it's probably going to be coming from a rod bearing.

I read somewhere online, if it's a rod knocking, you can unplug one spark plug wire at a time and see if the sound subsides.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIOdS7XbHys
 

MikeDobbs

Petty Officer 1st Class
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May 8, 2015
Messages
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Sorry to correct you... but I think you mean lifters. The riser is on the exhaust of the engine. Engine oil will be fine to coat the lifters with.

I have my fingers crossed for you on this. If the new lifters don't cure this, it's probably going to be coming from a rod bearing.

I read somewhere online, if it's a rod knocking, you can unplug one spark plug wire at a time and see if the sound subsides.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIOdS7XbHys



Yes- lifters- thank you. My fingers are crossed as well. What's a rod bearing? Does that have to do with the push rods? Is it lodged somewhere in the head where the rods pass through? I can try that spark plug trick before replacing the lifters.


Oooohhhhh- I just watched some videos and I see what you mean by rod knock. Jeez- now I'm really crossing my fingers. I don't think it sounds quite that serious when I run it though- so hopefully it will be the lifters. I guess I'll be posting back either way at some point this weekend :)
 
Joined
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Rod bearing is the connecting rod bearing which is bolted to the crankshaft at the bottom of the engine. That would mean a rebuild.
 

MikeDobbs

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Rod bearing is the connecting rod bearing which is bolted to the crankshaft at the bottom of the engine. That would mean a rebuild.

Yeah- I've read/watched up on that : (

I think I'm OK on that front though. I had a guy who rebuilds engines for a living give a listen to my video, and he felt that the noise was too slow to be a rod bearing- he feels it's in the valvetrain, or elsewhere in the head. He's suggesting I do a leakdown test before jumping to replace the lifters though- so I may be doing that this weekend first. He also suggested I readjust the valvetrain from 3/4 turndown (after zero-lash) to only 1/4 turndown (preload). Anyone have any experience with this?

Flipbro- I remember you saying I should use a half turn of turndown after zero lash as opposed to the 3/4 in the manual- this guy said 3/4 is crazy, and way to tight.
 

flipbro

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Feb 8, 2013
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Mike the 3/4 down is fine and in my opinion 1/4 is not enough. 1/2 would also be fine aslong as your sure on the zero lash. This is not your problem. And I dont see how a leak down will tell you if you have a bad lifter
 
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