Does this seem like a bad blocking diode?

[clanton]

There were some switch problems, and some were recalled, about the time the emergency shut off switch was change to be part of the ignition switch.

 

[sutor623]

Thanks for the advice clanton. Ill give it a shot.

 

[w2much]

Just my 2 cents. I had similar problems with my 1995 Evinrude 150. Paid good money to have it return to me still with issues. My tach was bad. Not sayin your is but mine was. Unhook it from the back and try to run the engine, just try it see what happens. Good luck.

 

[sutor623]

Just my 2 cents. I had similar problems with my 1995 Evinrude 150. Paid good money to have it return to me still with issues. My tach was bad. Not sayin your is but mine was. Unhook it from the back and try to run the engine, just try it see what happens. Good luck.

Thanks, no tach on this though.

 

[sutor623]

Figured out the problem guys. When I pulled the wiring harness to change out the blocking diode, I found a short from the tan wire to block. Still odd how the horn (tested good) wasnt activating, but the motor was going into slow mode. Anyways, thanks for the help and glad I figured it out!!!

 

[Fed]

Did a quick re-read of this thread Sutor and the whole thing doesn't add up, I'm sure you'd agree.
It's not like you to leave any mysteries behind.

 

[sutor623]

Did a quick re-read of this thread Sutor and the whole thing doesn't add up, I'm sure you'd agree.
It's not like you to leave any mysteries behind.

Well, I should have said the SPARK issue has been solved. Its not dropping spark around 1/2 throttle anymore, but I suspected a short in the harness for a while back. Here is an old quote of mine:

I hooked up the old powerpack and LEFT THE TAN WIRES DISCONNECTED and the alarm was sounding with the key on!!! (Keep in mind the motor is NOT overheating, and is premix from the factory.) There was a short somewhere in the powerpack that grounded out the tan wire is my guess. When I put the new pack on, again with the tan wires completely disconnected, the buzzer buzzed for a few seconds intermittently, and then stopped. At this point, if the diode is not bad, maybe there is a short in the harness.

Another issue that we found with this motor was even with good spark, it failed the drop test for cylinder 1. This thing has a crankcase leak right where the block comes together.............. Owner JB welded the leaky area and says its doing well now..............

 

[Fed]

What caught my attention was...

I also ran the motor with the tan wire disconnected from the powerpack, same issue.

... yet finding & fixing a short from the tan wire to the block fixed it.

It doesn't add up, did you change out the blocking diode at the same time?

 

[sutor623]

Yea I did but the diode tested exactly the same as the new one. We put it in just because.