Don't know where to start. So many problems with 95 Crownline

Baylinerchuck

Commander
Joined
Jul 29, 2016
Messages
2,740
I am mixing batches of this now Dave. It's actually really easy. For filets or filling you want to use equal parts, (or close to it), of resin and Cabosil. I mix my catalyst into the resin thoroughly first, then add cabosil to get the desired thickness. If I am doing any structural type of fills, like bedding or patching, I add in some 1/4" chop strands. The 1/4" chop strands make it harder to sand, but I like the added strength.
 

Baylinerchuck

Commander
Joined
Jul 29, 2016
Messages
2,740
Add the cabosil slowly or it will make a mess. I use a little less catalyst to give a little longer working time, but you'll want to experiment with that some.
 

littleguydave

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 23, 2017
Messages
102
What type of resin? I understand what a catalyst is, but not in regards to the resin. I don't know what these products are. I am heading to Home Depot in a few. By the way I got my sending unit, pickup line, anti-syphon gasket, penetrating epoxy and a lot of #4 foam. I am going to put tpgether the gas tank today and start cleaning the hull with sandpaper and a shop vac
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11,527
The penetrating epoxy is of little value in this rebuild, there really isn't much its good for, either get regular epoxy, or switch to polyester resin. You can't mix and matched the two types of resin.
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11,527
The Bondo stuff will just complicate your life, try looking elsewhere.
 

JASinIL2006

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 10, 2012
Messages
5,731
You want to find a good laminating resin. Depending on where you live, you might be able to find some locally. Many of us who live in the hinterlands had to order our stuff online and have it delivered. There are a number of good online sources, but delivery can be pricy because the resin is heavy and there are hazardous material shipping fees that get added on.

Have you figured out how much you need?
 

Rick Stephens

Admiral
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
What I did most of my grinding with was a small hand electric grinder and 4.5 inch 36 or 40 grit flapper disks. I found it more efficient to get my resin from US Composites, but there are a lot of places that carry quality components including iBoats. You should choose a polyester resin for your job and a lot of 1708 cloth. 1708 is mat layered and sewn over woven cloth. This allows fast build up since it is so thick and great strength with the layers working together. You will also need to mix up 'peanut butter' to bed everything and fill corners . If you are looking to save a few dollars, nothing wrong with mixing resin and hardener with sawdust to make up your peanut butter. I used 1/4 inch chopped fiberglass and cabosil, which is tiny bubbles of glass used a filler, like the sawdust, but butter smooth and easier to apply. Either works though.
 

strokendiesel002

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 15, 2012
Messages
283
Hi littleguydave! Just read through your entire thread(9 month old isn't sleeping well on his own tonight)! I'm very sorry that this is turning into more of a project than expected, but am very glad to see you prepping yourself for a proper resto. Among all of the safety reasons, your boat will probably be considerably lighter after removing the soaked foam and rotted wood. I bet I pulled well over a hundred pounds of partially wet foam out of a 17' aluminum boat, and can't wait to see how she does come spring! It's a family members boat, and I was near certain there was something wrong with the engine, as it didn't seem to have enough power(mine is same HP only a foot shorter, and my other uncle's is 3 feet longer, with only 10 more HP). After the thorough fuel system work, dry foam and proper glasswork (you've got some of the tops I've seen on here advising you, when I decide to do my first Glasser, I hope they'll take interest as well) I'll bet you won't want to get rid of this for a pontoon, but rather add a pontoon! I am lucky to have both a run about (won't hold a candle to yours once finished) and a toon, they both have their advantages!

While I can't offer much to the glasswork you'll be doing, I would like to offer encouragement! Don't be so hard on yourself regarding your current woodworking abilities, take your time and leave extra, then trim down as needed, a cheapo belt sander and a chalk line can really help for fine adjustments of stringer height when the time comes. You can even use that for rounding the edges of the tops of your stringers and ribs, making it easier to lay the glass(from what I've read anyhow, correct me if I'm wrong guys). Again, good on you for making the decision to properly restore your craft! If it's OK by you, I'd like to follow along!

Jimmy
 

CrazyFinn

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Dec 12, 2016
Messages
357
Home depot has the bondo fiberglass resin and resin hardener. Would that be ok?

The "Bondo" brand resin is just a (likely) more expensive version of polyester resin. Not better (although it might work), just packaged/marketed for retail stores. You can buy your exterior grade plywood at Home Depot. Buy the rest of your supplies elsewhere... To do the job properly, you will be going through gallons of resin.
 

Baylinerchuck

Commander
Joined
Jul 29, 2016
Messages
2,740
The "Bondo" brand resin is just a (likely) more expensive version of polyester resin. Not better (although it might work), just packaged/marketed for retail stores. You can buy your exterior grade plywood at Home Depot. Buy the rest of your supplies elsewhere... To do the job properly, you will be going through gallons of resin.

For sure. I have my transom complete and two strakes filled and I have used about 2-1/2 gallons of resin. 1708 soaks it up really fast.
 

JASinIL2006

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 10, 2012
Messages
5,731
I couldn't tell if the Bondo resin has wax added or not. I suspect it does, because the instructions don't say anything about additional steps to get the surface to cure hard. If it does have wax added, it will be a real pain to use when multiple layers are needed, because you'll have to sand each layer before you add another layer or they won't stick to each other. That would not be good.
 

Baylinerchuck

Commander
Joined
Jul 29, 2016
Messages
2,740
I couldn't tell if the Bondo resin has wax added or not. I suspect it does, because the instructions don't say anything about additional steps to get the surface to cure hard. If it does have wax added, it will be a real pain to use when multiple layers are needed, because you'll have to sand each layer before you add another layer or they won't stick to each other. That would not be good.


Never thought of that but you're probably right. I can't really think of a reason that Home Depot would sell it other than around the house, which means you'll most likely be sanding it. To make sanding easier the resin would have to be waxed. Waxed resin is not a good choice for marine layups.
 

littleguydave

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 23, 2017
Messages
102
The oil needs to be changed soon. I found the drain plug and I can reach the filter. Is it ok to pull the plug and let the oil drain out of the drain hole? I'm planning on putting my boat on a ramp and hosing out the area to clear any debris but didn't know if the oil would damage the fiberglass hull
 

Baylinerchuck

Commander
Joined
Jul 29, 2016
Messages
2,740
I don't think it would damage it, but sure makes a mess and hosing oil residue out is not really the best environmental practice. One thing you don't want is a chance of fire in your bilge due to oily residue. Used oil will stain the gel coat assuming your bilge is coated.

I drain mine into a pan a quart at a time. It's a pain in the butt for now, but beats an oily mess any day. I will eventually install a remote drain to make things easier.
 

JASinIL2006

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 10, 2012
Messages
5,731
The oil needs to be changed soon. I found the drain plug and I can reach the filter. Is it ok to pull the plug and let the oil drain out of the drain hole? I'm planning on putting my boat on a ramp and hosing out the area to clear any debris but didn't know if the oil would damage the fiberglass hull

I think you will regret that...
 
Top