don't really know where to start

PowerAddict

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 8, 2007
Messages
418
okay, so when I first brought the boat home there was water in the bilge and you could flip the bilge pump switch, and no indicator light. and no pump.

then, after I got some water out, the bilge pump indicator light would stay on with the switch on or off.

I'm familiar with electronics, and tracing problems, however, I'm unfamiliar with how the bilge pump/automatic bilge switch system works.

Does the bilge pump switch have to be on for the float switch to work? or can you keep the bilge switch off and the float switch overrides the console bilge switch?

if so, I guess I just have a short to ground from the auto float switch huh? And if that true, I probaby have a bad bilge pump too ?
 

jackmmf

Cadet
Joined
Aug 29, 2007
Messages
8
Re: don't really know where to start

Not sure what's going on with the lite on the switch, but I can speak to the float a little. Think of it as a three way switch, you can give it power either by turning the switch on or the float switch turning it on.

There's basically two leads (+):
1. Switch +
2. Float +

These two should come together at some point before the pump and tie into the pumps positive wire so either can complete the circuit for the pump.

There should also be one ground (-) from the pump that both positive can use so as long as the ground has a good connection, you should just have to worry about the positives.

Lead one comes from a power source, through the switch and spliced in to the pump positive so when you turn it on, the pump turns on by completing the circuit through the manual switch, through the pump and through the ground.

Lead two comes from a power source (not through the switch as the float acts as it's own switch), through the float and spliced in to the pump positive so when water lifts the float switch, the pump turns on by completing the circuit through the float switch, through the pump and through the ground.

The float lead should have an inline fuse and the switch a fuse of it's own so be sure to check those.

Point being, since the float has it's own, alway on, power source, it can turn the pump on and off regardless of how the switch is.

You can do a lot of trouble shooting with a simple DC tester that just lights up when you've got one hooked to + and the other to -!

Heck of a lot easier to draw this than write it! Hope it helps.
 

wire2

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 25, 2007
Messages
1,584
Re: don't really know where to start

It may be wired with a +12 supply to the dash switch , then in series through the float switch, to the pump.

Then, with the switch on, the pump will cycle as needed.
If the switch is off when not in the water, it won't drain the battery if the float sticks on.
Ideally, the switch would have an off, auto (float activated) and manual position.

Is the bilge area grungy from crankcase oil? That may hang up the float to keep it from working. Spray some detergent on it & rinse.

If you have a voltmeter or a test light, you can follow the wiring to see which way it's connected and where the 12v isn't getting to the pump.
 

PowerAddict

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 8, 2007
Messages
418
Re: don't really know where to start

thanks fellas. I think I should be able to get to the bottom of this. I appreciate you breaking it down for me!
 
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