Draw bar and receiver pin size

Jerry_NJ

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Re: Draw bar and receiver pin size

Thanks, I don't know what the thickness of the receiver metal is, bet about 1/4"... anyone know?


As the hole in the receiver goes into a channel (square tube) it can not be drilled from both sides. Thus is seems one would be left with a hole with a taper, the smallest inside of which has to be 5/8" in my case. So it seems to me there would be some wear on the inside edges of the holes (two sides) and would eventually enlarge the hole to the size of the outside edge. I don't know that dimension either but if 1/4" I'd guess the difference in the inside and outside diameters would be less than the out-of-round due to an armature (me) use of a large 5/8"drill bit. I am still to learn/look to see, if I have such a bit on hand, I think I do.
 

Maclin

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Re: Draw bar and receiver pin size

The hitch receiver should be flush with the bumper in my opinion. If it is tucked under the bumper some then I believe that is the real problem. I would not drill anything, but instead spend that energy and time and look at the install and see if it can be remounted.
 

Jerry_NJ

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Re: Draw bar and receiver pin size

Not sure what "flush with the bumper" means. The receiver has to lie under the bumper to stick its working end out to the rear of the vehicle. I will guess, and can take a look tomorrow, that the top of the receiver "box" is very close to the underside of the step bumper that is stock/factory.

I never had any problem with the old draw bar, the new one with the misalignment of the hitch pin hole will put the ball up a couple of inches higher, indeed to level the trailer even though my goal was to get it high enough that the trailer jack could be raised high enough to swing it away when the trailer is hitched. As far as towing goes, I never had any detected problems with the trail not level, low in the front.
 

colbyt

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Re: Draw bar and receiver pin size

I suggest that you find a different drawbar that doesn't hit your bumper

That isn't always possible when using a step bar. Most of which more than 2" have a wedge of metal to reinforce the rise or fall. That wedge sometimes hits the bumper when used in the rise position.

A 12" extension is a cheap fix but lowers the capacity and tends to decrease max tongue weight capacity.
 
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Maclin

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Re: Draw bar and receiver pin size

Here are some pics and more text that further explain my opinion...

First pic is looking down from rear. Second pic is from the side with slight stance past the rear. Looking at it from dead on side view, if a straightedge was placed up-down across the receiver and bumper edge it would be perpendicular.

The hitch receiver "beginning" should not be in front of the back edge of the bumper. Front/Back referenced as viewing vehicle from the side. It can go past the edge of the bumper, but tucked under will limit usefulness as demonstrated by the existence of this thread.

Any kind of extension will incrementally change the leverage to the advantage of the load and thus lessen the load capacity from the original design.

I worked for a company that had liabilities in this area, so add or subtract that bias from the applicability of my advice to your situation :)
 

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H20Rat

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Re: Draw bar and receiver pin size

I worked for a company that had liabilities in this area, so add or subtract that bias from the applicability of my advice to your situation :)

Then you would know that having a hitch flush with the bumper also causes safety issues. Even in a truck, the bumper function as a crumple zone in an impact. By having the hitch flush with the bumper, you effectively remove that safety margin, and the chance of injury in a relatively minor rear impact goes WAY up.
 

haulnazz15

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Re: Draw bar and receiver pin size

Maclin, the only liability is that you own a Dodge . . . :D
 

Jerry_NJ

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Re: Draw bar and receiver pin size

Understood, now. I did look at my receiver and indeed it is ahead/fprward of the step bumper edge.

I installed the receiver in 2005, so my memory of details are long lost. I don't recall having to drill any holes and I do recall the 2005 Chevy had a connector for plugging in the trailer wiring... I think the receiver came with electrical wiring that had a matching plug to the Chevy supplied interface, no wire splicing needed. In other words, the receiver was spe cific to my model (and perhaps many others).

It may be the step bumper is deeper than a flat bumper. On my 1988 Ram 50 I put a receiver on when the step bumper got bent up in an argument with a large tree. So there was no bumper on that truck to interfer. That truck was also 4WD and a good bit higher.s

I'm not worried about an easy fix that lowers my trailer load capacity, the biggest trailer I tow is a 14' Discovery Aluminum boat, pictured above.

Looking in the shed today to see if I had a draw bar extension my eye settled on the single man canoe loader and looked to see if it had an extension.. and behold, there was the missing step draw bar I believed I had. It works and while it doesn't raise the ball as far as the new draw bar I can us it while I decide what to do if anything.
 

Maclin

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Re: Draw bar and receiver pin size

Then you would know that having a hitch flush with the bumper also causes safety issues. Even in a truck, the bumper function as a crumple zone in an impact. By having the hitch flush with the bumper, you effectively remove that safety margin, and the chance of injury in a relatively minor rear impact goes WAY up.

Maybe, that is for researchers and lobbyists and lawyers to keep tabs on.

The liability I mentioned would be from structure failure from using the hitch, and then only if an extremely litiguous barrister got involved if an extreme event occurred :) This was even before 5mph bumpers and junk were in the regs, plus we only dealt with trucks, and the stouter the better back then.
 

Maclin

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Re: Draw bar and receiver pin size

Maclin, the only liability is that you own a Dodge . . . :D

WOW, good catch, if I wanted to remain incognito I should have erased the oversize 4x4 emblems and taillight huh!
 

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haulnazz15

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Re: Draw bar and receiver pin size

The emblem and the license plate light did it for me. :joyous:
 

birdman076

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Sep 19, 2011
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Re: Draw bar and receiver pin size

I think your receiver may be intended to be compatible with this anti-rattle hitch pin.

Hitch Accessories - Reese

This is correct, Draw-Tite/Reese/Hidden Hitch manufacture the majority of their hitches with the additional hole for the "J-Pin". It really is not meant to be used as an alternate mounting point for the draw bar. As far as extensions go, a good rule of thumb is every 12" extended away from the bumper you lose 30% towing capacity. I work for a trailer dealer and both points are commonly misconstrued.
 

Jerry_NJ

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Re: Draw bar and receiver pin size

birdman..

Welcome to "iboat"... I feel honored to be the post receiving your first reply... and an expert reply too That's the kind we all benefit from.

So, it seems, I can use my new draw bar with a "J-Pin" through the 1/2" hole. This then passes through the 5/8" hole in the draw bar and still will not rattle or cause unacceptable wear.
 

smokeonthewater

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Re: Draw bar and receiver pin size

that's NOT what he said... he said that the 1/2" hole is "NOT meant to be used as an alternate mounting point for the draw bar"
 

birdman076

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Re: Draw bar and receiver pin size

Jerry,

Thanks for the warm welcome, I had to start posting somewhere so it might as well be to help out. :)

The J-Pin shaft goes through the 5/8" hole, the "J" of the pin goes in the 1/2" hole.

The J-Pin is just one product that is used to deal with draw bar rattle. There is also the Quiet Hitch from Roadmaster Roadmaster Inc. - Tow Bars, Braking Systems & RV Accessories, the Cushioned Ball Mount from Draw-Tite Ball Mounts - Draw-Tite, Tow Ready version of the J-Pin and another Anti-Rattle Device Hitch Accessories - Tow Ready, there are many others to be sure.

Other ideas that are "Low Buck":

Weld a jam nut onto the hitch receiver tube over the 1/2" hole and thread a bolt in to take up any play.

I've even seen people use a bolt as opposed to the hitch pin and tighten that to stop rattle.

Other then the annoyance factor, I have never personally seen or heard of a hitch or ball mount failure caused by rattle and or shift. What I have seen are plenty of ball mounts that are "old" and have become out of round or wallowed out. That being said, I don't tow my boat enough atm because I am restoring/rebuilding but once I do start towing every weekend I will be installing a J-Pin or some other anti-rattle mechanism for pure annoyance hindering.
 
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The_Kid

Chief Petty Officer
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Apr 18, 2008
Messages
447
Re: Draw bar and receiver pin size

1/2" pins are used on 1 1/4" receivers. My lockable Master Lock pin is 1/2" and came with a bushing to make it 5/8 so it works in my 2" receiver.

iboats has one like it. SS 1/2" - 5/8" Receiver Lock - Fulton 580405 - iboats

If you trim the bushing down to the width of the draw bar you can use the 1/2" hole on the receiver without having any slop.
 

Jerry_NJ

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Aug 23, 2010
Messages
250
Re: Draw bar and receiver pin size

Thanks, sounds great.

I'm not sure I get the picture.. is the cylinder piece out front of the locking rod a bushing to downsize 5/8 to 1/2 .. that is it fits in the draw bar 5/8" hole and when slid into the 2" receiver and lined up with the 1/2" hole in the receiver the lock/bolt fits through. It seems the bushing then takes up the slack/space around the 1/2" bolt making it ride and wear like there is a 1/2" hole in the draw bar.

At $23, it cost more than the draw bar I'm trying to work with, But it is also a lock that's worth at least $15 of the total.
 

smokeonthewater

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Re: Draw bar and receiver pin size

:facepalm:

if you are determined to use THAT hole then drill it out to 5/8" and go boating...... you ore WAY WAY WAY WAY WAY overthinking this
 

Travis91

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Joined
Aug 6, 2012
Messages
26
Re: Draw bar and receiver pin size

Ive seen a horse trailer where the 12inch extension broke off going down the freeway.. Needless to say the jaws of life cut the trailer open to find 2 dead show horses.. For that reason unless i was using the extension for a bike rack i wouldn't use one.
 
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