drive shaft removal from bottom end Ev60

[athertop]

My drive shaft snapped yesterday whilst cruising along. Appeared to drop out of gear with a bang, and then no drive. Took the bottom end off tonight and surely enough the shaft is snapped just above the water impeller. I got the top part of the shaft out of the crank with no problems. I have removed the water impeller unit and outer bearing race from the bottom end and now have a loose piece of shaft which I can't get out. I do not have a manual, and have not seen any definitive answers in here to this problem (apart from read the manual!). So if anyone can tell me the the procedure for removing the bottom end of the drive shaft from the gear box I would be eternally grateful.<br /><br />The engine is a 1983 OMC/Evinrude 2 cylinder 60HP.<br /><br />p.s. I also have a problem with the engine stalling when putting it into gear when hot. Its like that extra load causes it to stall. Tried increasing idle speed by adjusting linkage but no joy. Also after a good run, dropping it into neutral, the idle goes lumpy after a few minutes and stalls. Any ideas (apart from get a new outboard!)?<br /><br />Thanks in advance, Paul

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: drive shaft removal from bottom end Ev60

There is a nut on the bottom of the driveshaft which retains the pinion gear.

 

[athertop]

Re: drive shaft removal from bottom end Ev60

Thanks Joe. Now the tough one - how do you get to the nut as the entire bottom end casting is sealed, so no access to the pinion. Do I have to cut a hole in it? I did hear some mention of this somewhere. If so, exactly what is the procedure? I could maybe get it aluminium welded back up if this is the case.<br /><br />Thanks, Paul

 

[lark2004]

Re: drive shaft removal from bottom end Ev60

are you sure that there isn't access through the back of the unit? Also you should able to seperate the gearcase from the rest of the lower unit, the pinion is easy to do from there.

 

[OBJ]

Re: drive shaft removal from bottom end Ev60

AThertop....look down inside where the prop shaft sticks out. You should see four retaining bolts. Remove these to get the bearing carrier out. You really need to invest in a service manual if you are going to do this yourself.

 

[athertop]

Re: drive shaft removal from bottom end Ev60

Obj,<br /><br />I removed the prop, and the shaft's outer bearing is retained by what looks like a part of the main casting, with three webs linking it to the outside casing. If I look in between these webs to the interior of the exhaust, will I see the four bolts inside? Is this what you are referring to?<br /><br />Or are you referring to the vertical drive shaft? I have removed the impellor pump, and beneath this are 4 bolts which hold the bearing retaining plate which has an oil seal in the middle. I have also removed this and have taken out the outer bearing casing. So I am left with the taper bearing race and inner bearing casing pressed onto the shaft. The shaft is loose as a result of removing the bearing outer, but is still fixed to the pinion apparently (as I am informed in an earlier reply). What I need to know is how I should get to the nut which holds the bottom of the shaft onto the pinion. <br /><br />The guy am my local outboard shop suggested I need to use a puller to remove the bearing housing from around the prop shaft then remove the reverse gear mechanism. So I will have a look at this but any advice would be helpful from you guys.<br /><br />Thanks, Paul

 

[archergw]

Re: drive shaft removal from bottom end Ev60

athertop,<br /><br />The shaft that you pulled the prop off of is the one that you will have to work around. If you look down inside you should see the bolts. Once you get the bolts out, you should be able to pull the bearing carrier out of the casing. Provided that it has never been around salt water. If so, get ready to use some heat! A good automotive gear puller will come in handy when removing the carrier. Once you have the carrier removed, use extreme caution when removing your reversing gear. You have some shims, thrust bearing, and thrust washer that are with the reversing gear. MAKE SURE YOU GET THEM IN THE PROPER ORDER. With the reversing gear removed you will be able to see the pinion nut on the driveshaft. Once you get the nut off, you should be able to pull your driveshaft out. Be careful not to let the pinion gear fall on the floor. Since I'm kinda lazy, and only like doing jobs one time, my personal recommendation for parts replacement would also include new seals (you can buy all of them in a kit), pinion nut, and water pump. Also make sure that you get the proper torque value for the pinion nut. Also, my best advise to you is to invest in a manual. It will be money very well spent!

 

[athertop]

Re: drive shaft removal from bottom end Ev60

Thanks Cajun mech. Very informative.<br />My motor has been in salt water, but only a couple of days a year for the first 15 years or so of its life. Since then just fresh water.<br />Last night I managed to get the three bolts removed. The bearing carrier is well and truly stuck. I have sprayed it with loads of penetrating oil. Will get a torch to apply some heat tonight. I am thinking of making a puller.<br />Should the puller hook under the edges of the outer circle of the bearing carrier, or under the three webs which go from the bearing to the outer circle (does this make sense?). And, should the puller push against the centre of the prop shaft?<br /><br />Also how do you get a torque wrench inside the opening all the way back to the nut on the pinion? Surely once a wrench is inside there wouldn't be much space for movement? These guys must use air ratchets to assemble these things in the factory!<br /><br />Found the original hand book and the engine model is E60TLCRE if anyone is interested!<br /><br />Cheers all, Paul

 

[craigvalk]

Re: drive shaft removal from bottom end Ev60

I can chip in on a couple of points.<br />I think most pullers for that carrier hook on the web. Not sure about 83 motor, mine is much older, but has a web carrier like you describe.<br />You can get one here like this:<br /> http://www.mercstuff.com/page15.htm <br /><br />Or, you can try the suggestion I got right here on the board, which was to get a harmonic balancer puller, take some threaded rod and bend it into a J, run that through the puller, bolt it up with some nuts and washers and hook your carrier web with the J end of the rods. I just made this tool tonight as I am doing a similar job this weekend. So, hope it works will find out tomorrow night. Being a cheap SOB I just couldn't bear to spend money for the tool, so I will try homemade first and if it don't work, down to NAPA I go.<br />On the heat.. I am not sure propane gets hot enough..it might work... maybe try oxygen/propane or MAPP gas, and be real careful not to overheat and melt the casting. <br />As far as torqueing the pinion nut, OMC makes a special socket that fits the top of the driveshaft where it goes into the motor. Ya put a wrench on the pinion nut and your torque wrench on the socket on top. <br />You DON'T want to screw up the torque on that nut, if it ain't right you are asking for trouble, so sometimes its best to take the thing to a shop and pay them to do it. If you are not in a hurry you can look around for the socket, they can be found, I got one for mine on Ebay.<br /><br />One more suggsetion... get the manual... <br /><br />Good luck<br /><br />Craig