Driveshaft Repair

rocky388

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 10, 2013
Messages
39
..well, on another thread I have I asked about an oil seal on the vertical drive shaft. This lead to me pulling the outdrive and replacing the gimbal bearing and u-joints. So far things weren't going that great...they just got worse.

Gimbal bearing came out easy, tried the 3"pvc trick, which didn't work because 3" pvc is too big to set the gimbal bearing deep enough. I have pulled the new one back out, and I have the proper mandrel on order.

The ujoints were another story. I tried pressing them out with the c-clamp and socket method, and rented the autozone press. Both clamps kept slipping off due to the uneven surfaces I was clamping against. The autozone clamp was just too big to get properly aligned. In this process I broke a few teeth on the castle retaining nut. I drilled the retaining nut out to remove it. I have a new retaining nut on order.

I then pulled the driveshaft out and brought it to a local shop this morning that claimed they can press out and press in the new u joint bearings with their press. This is what I came to pick up:

wtf.jpg


Apparently the worker that told me he can press the old u joints out and new ones in..couldn't. He decided to clamp the worst possible part in a vice to work on it. I guess my question is..now what????

based off the exploded diagram I figured out I need a new ring, o ring, carrier assembly, oil seal, and bearing kit. basically $200 in parts from iboats. does it make sense to go this route? Or just get the whole $500 (give or take) rebuild kit? The gear is fine. I realize I cannot do this work myself because I don't have the rolling resistance meter. I'm thinking if it's a matter of sliding old parts off, new ones on, I can do that, and take it to a marina to have them do the final tightening. Is this correct? Part of me is trying to save some coin, but the other part also wants to be finished with this project, and having a marina do the entire job last minute is the longer option time wise.

So what am I in for? The worst part is, the u-joints probably didn't even need to be replaced. I figured I'd do some preventative maintenance. And save myself the struggle by dropping it off to a shop with a press..much easier than any C-clamp method.....that worked out well. :facepalm:


thanks
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,612
Re: Driveshaft Repair

I take this is an Alpha, and what's the serial number?
 

flipbro

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 8, 2013
Messages
830
Re: Driveshaft Repair

Why do you need new bearings? Did he clamp them in a vise aswell?
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
Re: Driveshaft Repair

I just use a hammer to get the old unis out. Flick the keeper clips off, then just thump the middle section until one of the bearing caps (with the uni needles in) pops out of the section. Pull the cap out and push the cross across, turn it and pull the cross out of the middle section. Do the same with the other uni and you're ready to start re-installing the new ones.

Chris.....
 

rocky388

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 10, 2013
Messages
39
Re: Driveshaft Repair

I just use a hammer to get the old unis out. Flick the keeper clips off, then just thump the middle section until one of the bearing caps (with the uni needles in) pops out of the section. Pull the cap out and push the cross across, turn it and pull the cross out of the middle section. Do the same with the other uni and you're ready to start re-installing the new ones.

Chris.....

Thanks, a little late for that now though. Once I had the driveshaft removed, I was trying to avoid laying it down on any surface to be able to hit the u joints out. I figured a press would be the way to go. And I still feel it is....provided the guy operating the press doesn't put your driveshaft in a vice and crush it.
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,346
Re: Driveshaft Repair

You have to remove the gears and bearing to set the new carrier nut in place so do the U joints then with 2 sockets and hammer.
You wont know what type you have until you try to remove the gearset. If you remove the nut and they slide off, its old style and just needs to be torqued. If not ,you need to use a gear splitter tool to remove the parts and use rolling torque to install them.
 

rocky388

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 10, 2013
Messages
39
Re: Driveshaft Repair

You have to remove the gears and bearing to set the new carrier nut in place so do the U joints then with 2 sockets and hammer.
You wont know what type you have until you try to remove the gearset. If you remove the nut and they slide off, its old style and just needs to be torqued. If not ,you need to use a gear splitter tool to remove the parts and use rolling torque to install them.

Would old style vs new style still be the same oil seal, ring, and o-ring that need to be replaced? I just watched a youtube video that spoke of the old style being torqued to 80ftlbs, new style you do the rolling torque. Seems pretty straight forward, and a repair I can do especially if it's just an 80 ftlb torque.

IF I have the new style, the youtube video mentioned if you over tighten the nut while doing the rolling torque, you have to take apart and re-gap the bearings so they can be tightened once again to the proper rolling torque. How would I separate the bearings? I assume there's a special tool? I was hoping, if I had the new style, to just unscrew the nut; slide the drive gear that has all the bearings pressed onto it off; slide my new retaining nut, ring, o ring, oil seal on; slide drive gear back on; tighten nut to rolling torque. The problem with this, is that being that I never touched the bearings, they should already be set. When I tighten that nut, I can just get to the proper rolling torque..however, if I go over..or if they are currently over the set amount, I'll need to gap them to start over..how?

Also, I watched another youtube video dealing with reinstalling the drive shaft of a bravo outdrive that mentioned aligning timing marks. Alpha one drives do not have any sort of timing marks in reinstalling that drive shaft, do they?
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,346
Re: Driveshaft Repair

holding the assembly in one hand and a dead-blow hammer in the other hand , loosen the nut and just tap the shaft a bit to loosen then up.
 

flipbro

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 8, 2013
Messages
830
Re: Driveshaft Repair

I believe there are only timming marks to align if you have 1:65 upper gears.
 

rocky388

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 10, 2013
Messages
39
Re: Driveshaft Repair

22 teeth.

Just swapped out the damaged parts after receiving them today. Very easy to do. Unfortunately I have the new style, which means I need to go to a marina to have them tighten the nut with the rolling resistance tool.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,612
Re: Driveshaft Repair

22 teeth.

Just swapped out the damaged parts after receiving them today. Very easy to do. Unfortunately I have the new style, which means I need to go to a marina to have them tighten the nut with the rolling resistance tool.

Sorry if I'm out of line here and miss something, but once the nut is torqued you should (by my reading) achieve a rolling resistance of 6-10 INLB. If it is less the that, you have to tighten a bit more and recheck, if it is more you have to disassemble and reassemble and start again. So my thought is baby steps .

For me it comes down to having an accurate inch pound torque wrench
 

rocky388

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 10, 2013
Messages
39
Re: Driveshaft Repair

Sorry if I'm out of line here and miss something, but once the nut is torqued you should (by my reading) achieve a rolling resistance of 6-10 INLB. If it is less the that, you have to tighten a bit more and recheck, if it is more you have to disassemble and reassemble and start again. So my thought is baby steps .

For me it comes down to having an accurate inch pound torque wrench

So basically use an inch lb torque wrench set between 6-10? Right now I took the drive apart, swapped out the damaged pieces, re-assembled, and just tightened the nut to the point there was no 'slack' in the drive. As it was apart, I did hold the assembly, and give the shaft a few hits to loosen the bearings up as Bt Doctur suggested, to reassure that I'm not starting off over tightened.
 

flipbro

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 8, 2013
Messages
830
Re: Driveshaft Repair

6 to 10 inch pounds on a new bearing. If the bearing has been spun under load i believe its 2 to 5 inch pounds witch is your case with used bearings but you may want to check on that i may be off! You can purchase inch pound dial torque wrenches of ebay for around 100 bucks then you have it. The shop will likely charge you close to that.
 

rocky388

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 10, 2013
Messages
39
Re: Driveshaft Repair

I have an inch lb with the head that clicks..probably not precise enough?

Earlier today I spoke with the owner of the local shop whose worker put my driveshaft in the vice. He said he's going to reimburse me for parts and the labor to tighten the nut. I'm not holding my breath on that one, but there is a possibility I may not have to pay for any of this. I think at this point I'd rather take my chances with a shops bill than ordering additional tools.
 

flipbro

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 8, 2013
Messages
830
Re: Driveshaft Repair

No the click type is no good! I would not trust that shop after seeing what they did to you already even if it was free. It may cost you your hole drive if that preload is not done correct. But thats just me and my trust issuses lol good luck
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,612
Re: Driveshaft Repair

++ with flipbro, do not use a click torque wrench, you need one with a dial, they cost more by accuracy is the issue
 
Top