Driveshaft Repair

Bt Doctur

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Re: Driveshaft Repair

And a tip for those replacing the gear set , save and install the small inner spacer, disregard the rolling torque method and just torque to spec. like the old style. Using the inner spacer takes out the guesswork and the pre-load can never change.
 

flipbro

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Re: Driveshaft Repair

Bt doctor have you done this then cheaked the rolling torque to verify its accuracy? Very interesting idea!
 

Bt Doctur

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Re: Driveshaft Repair

Have done 6 units this way ,all have been to spec .The only thing merc did was increase the dia by 1 or 2 thou on the gear making it an interference fit and use a different method to set preload. I find no difference betweennusing the inner ring and the rolling torque.
Maybe merc is using substandard bearings in their drive and not the OEM Timkin ones.
All I know is that it works and there is no more hassel trying to get it just right.
 

flipbro

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Re: Driveshaft Repair

You know i thought about doing that when i rebuilt my upper then decided against it and just did the rolling torque. Took me two tries lol. I like your way much easier!
 

rocky388

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Re: Driveshaft Repair

So I ordered the torque wrench, it came today. I assembled the drive, left the nut just touching with no slack, put the torque wrench on it, and while holding the bearings and rotating the wrench, I'm at 15in lbs. I left the nut so loose, that before it took an inch lb reading, it tighten the nut a bit. So I disassembled, seperated the bearings to where they were moving much easier by hand, and I'm still at 15 inch lbs. What gives? Is it possible I have the old style? The bearings are definitely pressed onto the drive gear. The bearings do not move independent of each other, should they? I'm taking my reading holding the bearings tight by hand, and rotating the wrench around.
 

rocky388

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Re: Driveshaft Repair

Maybe I'm confused as to old style vs new. What I have now, the drive gear and bearings are all one assembly and come off the yoke, to give access to the oil seal and ring, which both slide off. I'm assuming this is new style as the bearings do not slide on and off. Is this incorrect?
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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Re: Driveshaft Repair

Have you watched my video on the procedure?
 

rocky388

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Re: Driveshaft Repair

Have you watched my video on the procedure?

Yes, and I've been following it as far as I can tell. It seems pretty straight forward..I can't tell if you're holding the bearing as you rotate or not, but I don't see how you can get an accurate reading without holding the bearing. Is it possible I've misunderstood old vs new?
 

achris

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Re: Driveshaft Repair

If you can't slide the bearings off the gear by hand, you have the new style. Yes, I'm holding the bearing outers to stop them turning, that way I am measuring the roller torque of the bearing, not the sliding torque of the outer race.

Chris......
 

rocky388

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Re: Driveshaft Repair

If you can't slide the bearings off the gear by hand, you have the new style. Yes, I'm holding the bearing outers to stop them turning, that way I am measuring the roller torque of the bearing, not the sliding torque of the outer race.

Chris......

Just as I expected. Alright I'll go back and separate the bearings some more I guess. Maybe I didn't separate them enough? Should the be able to spin independent of each other? Thanks for the replies and patience..I really just want to be done with this drive finally!
 

achris

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Re: Driveshaft Repair

Yes, once the bearings are 'separated' you should be able to turn them by hand without feeling any resistance on them.

Chris........
 

rocky388

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Re: Driveshaft Repair

So I got the bearing preload set to 5 inch lbs, as per used bearing specs. I had to separate the bearings more, which is why I was initially getting the high reading. After separating them more, to the point they spun independent of each other, I reassembled, took a reading (which was obviously low) and continued to tighten the nut. Once the slack was taken out of the nut, another half turn after that and I was reading 5 inch lbs. I had some concerns with this, considering it seems like that nut should have been tightened more than half a turn, but the rolling resistance is set to what it should be, despite just being a half turn tight.

My issue is that I put the boat in the water today to leave it in my slip. On my was across the lake, I noticed a constant whirring noise. I have new u-joints, new gimbal bearing that was greased and installed all the way in with the proper mandrel tool, and checked my engine alignment which was dead on.

What is the whirring noise? I'm hoping it's just break in sound of a new gimbal bearing..but I think that may be wishful thinking? I'm beginning to wonder if this whirring could mean the rolling resistance is now to loose, despite being set at the 5inlbs? would that cause a whirring sound? Is it possible that the bearings were set with tightening that nut one half turn, and now that they're installed in they loosened up some? I'm kind of at a loss here.

I'd like to avoid taking the boat out of the water and pulling the drive, but also I'd like to avoid more severe problems that could potentially lead me to having to pull the motor, spend $$$, and miss out on a good portion of the season.
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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Re: Driveshaft Repair

You haven't stated what engine you have, or what the drive ratio is. If it's 1.65:1 (or 1.62:1) then the top gear are 'full hunting' and need to be put back in with the match marks lined up.... If you don't, you get whining....
 

rocky388

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Re: Driveshaft Repair

And a tip for those replacing the gear set , save and install the small inner spacer, disregard the rolling torque method and just torque to spec. like the old style. Using the inner spacer takes out the guesswork and the pre-load can never change.

Can I do this with keeping my old gear set? IF I have to disassemble and go in there again, maybe it's worth considering pressing off the old bearings, install the inner spacer and press the bearings back on? Which would not be ideal, because now I'll need a bearing splitter and whatever special tools are needed to install said bearings. But it seems like a better option than playing around with rolling resistance..
 

rocky388

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Re: Driveshaft Repair

You haven't stated what engine you have, or what the drive ratio is. If it's 1.65:1 (or 1.62:1) then the top gear are 'full hunting' and need to be put back in with the match marks lined up.... If you don't, you get whining....

1988 mercruiser 350. Not sure of drive ratio, the drive gear has 22 teeth, I don't know the number of teeth on the driven gear.
 

rocky388

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Jun 10, 2013
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Re: Driveshaft Repair

Just thinking another thought..I took the top cover with the 4 allen head bolts off the outdrive during this repair, and inside I found a weird black plastic type paint material that was peeling off the section that the bearing rides in. I scraped off the peeling plastic/paint (whatever it was) and cleaned the inside of that cover. Is it possible that THAT'S what is now making the sound? That the bearing is riding inside that race, which before didn't make any sound because of that plastic/painted surface?

Would loose drive shaft bearings cause a whirring noise to begin with? Or would they be silent, and undetectable until they fail?
 
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