Dryall Patching Question

[Mike Robinson]

I recently had to cut a hole in our bedroom wall to access some plumbing, the hole is a bout 1 1/2' by 2'. For the patch I plan to make the vertical seams along the studs and add cross members behind the horizontal seams.

My question is this, Do I need to tape the seams or can I just fill them?

Thanks!

 

[captmello]

Re: Dryall Patching Question

Yes, tape the seams. I like the fiberglass mesh tape.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Re: Dryall Patching Question

Unless I have beveled edges I don't use tape. It ends up to thick and you just sand it off.

 

[MTboatguy]

Re: Dryall Patching Question

Why not use a removable patch, I saw a deal on the TV show This old house the other day, and they had to do the same thing, they cut out the area then installed a spring loaded plastic cap, so that they had access if needed again, it was quite a nice looking installation, where is the area located in your house, this one was in the closet, so not subject to being real visible..

Here is another option, these require a frame around the hole, then screw in so you always have access to that area.

http://www.become.com/drywall-access-panel

I have had to access inside walls in many areas of my house over the years, and normally how I do a patch, is I will cut a piece of 1/4 plywood, a bit bigger than the hole I cut, then put a long screw in it for a handle, fit it behind the hole, screw around the perimeter with drywall screws, then cut a piece of dry wall a bit smaller than the hole, screw to the center of the patched area and used thin mesh drywall tape, then finish as normal, no perceivable bulge on the wall if you feather out far enough and then texture or what ever your finish is. This is how many of the home improvement websites recommend repairing holes in walls..

 

[Boomyal]

Re: Dryall Patching Question

If you are not likely to need access again, tape it, mud it and get yourself a can of spray texture. Feather it wide, sand it down and dither it all around with the spray texture that best matches the existing wall. You will never know it was there.

 

[Bigprairie1]

Re: Dryall Patching Question

Always, always, always tape the seams....or it will crack.
Feather it out as the guys mentioned and while trowelling remove the high spots....low spots or 'lines' are ok, you can get them next pass. Don't 'over' sand, just fill it smooth and wide and you won't have to....Oh, and the basic #1 rule....keep your 'mud' antiseptic clean. Never put anything off your trowel, tray or 'hawk' back in your original mud bucket...ever.
Good Luck
BP

 

[jlinder]

Re: Dryall Patching Question

One trick I have used is cut on the joist for the vertical seam, but for the horizontal seam I cut a piece of drywall about 4-6 inches wide and long enough so that it fits between the joists (~14"). This piece becomes a bridge between the existing wall and the patch.

I then apply joint compound as a mortar the length of the drywall but only to the top half of the drywall piece (about 2-3" of it). Then take the drywall bridge piece and slip it behind the existing drywall so that the half of it behind the existing wall and the bottom is exposed. Now squeeze the bridge to the drywall to form a tight "glue".

Repeat on the bottom of where the patch will be. You now have a backer board for the top and bottom of the patch.

When you go to put the patch in apply joint compound to the drywall backer boards so when you put the patch it will be glued to the backer just like the existing wall.

The result is a solid joint at the top and bottom of the patch. I have had excellent results with this method and have even been able to go without tape for the horizontal seam. (I still use tape on the vertical seams)

Hope this helps

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: Dryall Patching Question

Unless I have beveled edges I don't use tape. It ends up to thick and you just sand it off.

Use at least a 12" knife and sveral thinner coats.

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: Dryall Patching Question

One trick I have used is cut on the joist for the vertical seam, but for the horizontal seam I cut a piece of drywall about 4-6 inches wide and long enough so that it fits between the joists (~14"). This piece becomes a bridge between the existing wall and the patch.

I then apply joint compound as a mortar the length of the drywall but only to the top half of the drywall piece (about 2-3" of it). Then take the drywall bridge piece and slip it behind the existing drywall so that the half of it behind the existing wall and the bottom is exposed. Now squeeze the bridge to the drywall to form a tight "glue".

Repeat on the bottom of where the patch will be. You now have a backer board for the top and bottom of the patch.

When you go to put the patch in apply joint compound to the drywall backer boards so when you put the patch it will be glued to the backer just like the existing wall.

The result is a solid joint at the top and bottom of the patch. I have had excellent results with this method and have even been able to go without tape for the horizontal seam. (I still use tape on the vertical seams)

Hope this helps

Slick.
I'm not sure that there is any advantage to your way rather than just using a piece of strapping for the horizontal backer held on with drywall screws...but I may try it next time i have to patch something.

I am guessing that you just use a few clamps to hold those backing strips in place while the mud dries?

 

[LippCJ7]

Re: Dryall Patching Question

Great ideas guys thanks!!

 

[Guest]

Re: Dryall Patching Question

Tape and mud as if you were doing it as before. No short cuts alowed in drywall taping or you WILL see the problem patch sticking out like a sore thumb.

 

[Boomyal]

Re: Dryall Patching Question

For backing on horizontal seams, or any seams for that matter, where you cannot split a stud, I use 2" (or more) strip of 1/4" plywood. Run a bead of construction glue across the top half of the strip, then place it inside the unsupported seam and run a couple of drywall screws into it to lock it in place. Now you have backing support that you can use right away. Place your filler drywall board into the framed opening and run a few screws into the wood backing.

If you have any substantial gaps in the seams, I like to mix about 1 part to 2 of powdered FixAll into the mud. You will need to add a little additional water, as well. Then go ahead and fill the gaps and apply your tape with this mixture.

The FixAll keeps the mud from shrinking and will make the mud set quicker so you can get on with your overcoat of mud.

The fixAll trick is good for any large or deep boo boos where you may not even need to tape the repair area. Just make sure that you apply it with no excess protruding out past the surrounding surface as it is harder to sand. You can always do a final skim coat with plain mud after the Fixall mix has taken it's relatively quick set.

I did this most recently with a tennis ball sized hole in the drywall. I squared the hole up a bit, inserted a strip of wood that was the width of the hole, screwed it in place with a drywall screw (top and bottom) then filled the hole with the Fixall mixture. There was enough of a gap between the strip of wood and the drywall where you would get a little squeeze thru (like old lath and plaster) to help lock the patch in place.

Before the mixture started to harden, it sagged a bit in the hole. As the mixture started to set, I just took a broad knife and ran it up the wall to shave off the little bit of sag out. A short time later I just skimmed coated the patch with plain mud and let it all dry. A light sanding with the open mesh sanding trowel, a good dithering spray of texture and you could not pick the patch out from the surrounding wall. Budda Bing!

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: Dryall Patching Question

MTboatguy and I are from the same school of thought when it comes to adding in an access panel.......... However, there are law's to access panels.

An access panel added to a vital area will NEVER need another repair.

An area that could have needed an access panel but is sealed up with drywall will ALWAYS need a future repair!

It always seems to work out that way!

 

[MTboatguy]

Re: Dryall Patching Question

Bob,

You and I grew up with the same values, it is always best to plan ahead and be prepared, every single time I have not, then I have had to re-do..

 

[jlinder]

Re: Dryall Patching Question

Slick.
I'm not sure that there is any advantage to your way rather than just using a piece of strapping for the horizontal backer held on with drywall screws...but I may try it next time i have to patch something.

I am guessing that you just use a few clamps to hold those backing strips in place while the mud dries?

Don't need any clamps. The joint compound is thick enough to hold the backer in place while it drys. The nice thing about this method is that the entire joint is drywall and mud. Does not seem to be any problems with cracking as temperature changes and the wall shrinks and expands. It all shrinks and expands at the same rate I guess.

In any event I have never had any problems with cracks appearing months or years later. It is as solid as can be.

BTW - for small holes I take some paint stirrers (wood) for the backer. Tie some string or dental floss around the stirrer, put some joint compound on the stirrer ends, then slip the stirrer through the hole and pull tight with the string. (you can also us a drywall screw through the stirrer as a handle). This glues the stirrer to the drywall from the back. If the hole is big enough use 2 or more stirrers for the backing

Once dry cut the patch to fit, apply joint compound to the back, and press in place. Once dry finish up. Again, solid with no cracks.

If the hole is small enough you can just put multiple layers of joint compound on top of the paint stirrers that are the backing and build it up until it is flush.

I have used these techniques a good bit (raised 3 active boys - joint compound, stirrers, and spare drywall was a staple in our house) and they have been very successful for me.