Dual Battery Setup

[Auger01]

Re: Dual Battery Setup

...and doesn't want to listen to what experianced people are telling them...

Actually, I did listen to these comments and critiques:

The specs on those relays don't give you a lot of margin for current capacity.

... Will the solenoids be located in a well ventilated area (no fumes)? If you can find solenoids that are "ignition protected", I don't see a problem with using them. Corrosion resistant would be a bonus....

I switched from the Cole Hersee Solenoids to the Blue Sea stuff based on those comments. I'm still using one 65A Cole hersee solenoid for the engine fuse block, but it IS ul listed for marine use (p/n 24059-08)

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Dual Battery Setup

So you have to throw your "bus tie" switch to allow both batteries to charge at the same time?

 

[Auger01]

Re: Dual Battery Setup

That switch is a SPDT center off switch. Normally it would be in "auto" position. The auto side of the switch picks up power from the ignition fuse block which is powered whenever the ignition switch is on. The "on" positon of the bus tie switch picks up power from the load side of battery switch one (at the house bus) and/or battery switch two via the bridge rectifier. That way you can close the battery tie switch if either battery is "on".

I am basically using only half of the rectifier as two diodes because it was easier to mount and had the spade terminals.

So I guess the answer to your question is usually no.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Dual Battery Setup

I guess I would have to see the schematic of what you are talking about there or is that what you show in your original schematic?

Edit: I see what that does now...I think. Isolates the 2 batteries so only the fuller battery supplies current. You sure that's what you really want? Doesn't look like you can charge both batteries at the same time.

What is the rectifier rated for?

 

[Auger01]

Re: Dual Battery Setup

The original schematic shows it. The only difference from what I have wired up vs. what is shown is that I added lights and horn to the house block and the control wires and lights for the upgraded battery switches is slightly different.

The rectifier is rated for 35 amps at 50volts max. The only thing that the rectifier powers is the tie relay and the blue led indicator light. Those two total less than a quarter amp. The rectifiers sole purpose is to have two sources of power to close the tie relay while still keeping those two sources isolated from each other. The tie relay itself is what actually will parallel the two batteries. Hope that helps. I know the scematic is difficult to read, I might try to use different software and make one that is easier to read.