Duh! Why Didn't I Think of That?

[jay_merrill]

I had a conversation with a guy today, who is selling a lot of gear at fire sale prices, in preparation to move his marine repair business. He has been a OMC/BRP dealer, but is now going independant.

When I asked him if he had any shift switches for my Johnson 65hp hydroelectric remotes, he said no. He then piped up with his solution for busted shift switches - plain old, everyday marine 3 position, push-pull light switches.

These are off-on-on switches that allow your white tail light to be used as an "at anchor" light in position 2 and full running lights in position 3. The point is that "off" (switch pushed forward) would correspond with forward, "on 1" would be the middle position, with one circuit closed and "on 2" would be the rear position, with two circuits closed - which is exactly what the OMC shift switch does. Absent the neutral safety circuit, this seems like a perfect solution.

You can buy these switches right here at iboats for about 7 bucks. Has anyone ever tried this? Its so simple that I feel like a complete idiot for never thinking of it before.



???

 

[charliealley]

Re: Duh! Why Didn't I Think of That?

I did the same thing yrs. ago with a 85 hp, I used double pole double throw toggle switches. ( these have 3 positions and six terminals ) They can be used and still have neutral safety lock out, and you can toggle forward/reverse for docking and such. Now if I can only remember the wiring diagram to do it. It worked great and was easier than having it on the throttle when you got used to it.
Charlie

 

[F_R]

Re: Duh! Why Didn't I Think of That?

I have thought about the light switch and know that it will work. But I haven't personally tried it. But then I don't have a motor with Hydro-Electric either.

 

[Aratsman]

Re: Duh! Why Didn't I Think of That?

Sounds like it would work. The only thing I can think of would be can the switch handle the amps needed to work the circut. One solutions to that would be to wire the switch into a bank of relays to work the solenoids in the LU. The relays would take the current while leaving the switch on a low draw. But that would also bring more things to fail in the mix, it might be an option and inexpensive. I thought about this recently with switching from a selectric to hydroelectric LU on my '67 and how I could use the selectric remote with that. If it is needed, I could draw up a schematic and parts list if people need it.

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: Duh! Why Didn't I Think of That?

The shift solenoids don't require a lot of amperage - the specs call for 1.5 to 2.0 amps. Further, the system only uses 18 gauge wire, which is pretty light.

The 3 position push/pull switches sold at iboats, are rated to 15 amps @ 12 volts, so they would more than handle any load expected within the shift circuitry.

BTW, what model '67 do you have? Evinrude electric shift remotes seem to be all called "Selectric," but the hydroelectric shift systems and the older electric shift systems work differently. Unless you have somehow rewired the hydroelectric remote, it won't work with the older system. Trying to to mix them, if you don't know what you are doing, could cause damage.



???

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Duh! Why Didn't I Think of That?

it does work, but you have to be careful, shifting, so as not to go directly from forward to reverse, and tear up the gears.

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: Duh! Why Didn't I Think of That?

Good point. But if that's the only alternative you have .....



???

 

[Aratsman]

Re: Duh! Why Didn't I Think of That?

Its the one with the coils, not solenoids. 12V for F & R 0V for neutral. I was thinking about going to a hydroelctric setup at one point and was thinking about how to make the coil setup work. Can be done with relays to control the voltages as for the hydroelectric 0v is F. 12v on blue I think is neutral, and green and blue 12v is reverse. So with my control on a hydroelectric, N would be F, F would be nothing(or partial reverse, all in all, I wouldn't want to find out) and R would be N, lol. Simple circut with relays would fix the problem. I ended up finding a LU to replace mine, but the thought was still there.

 

[reelfishin]

Re: Duh! Why Didn't I Think of That?

Has anyone ever just thought about rigging up a set of micro switches on a modern single lever throttle control? A set of on/off roller switches mounted either inside the control box or at the motor would shift the motor, and at the same time by design of the single lever controls, force the motor to be at idle when shifted.
I don't have an Electric shift motor rigged up on anything right now, or else I'd probably give it a try.

 

[Aratsman]

Re: Duh! Why Didn't I Think of That?

You could I suppose with some fabrication. An industrial supply house would carry roller switches and I guess they could be mounted to shift the unit. Maybe even a lever switch to engage it.

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: Duh! Why Didn't I Think of That?

Has anyone ever just thought about rigging up a set of micro switches on a modern single lever throttle control? A set of on/off roller switches mounted either inside the control box or at the motor would shift the motor, and at the same time by design of the single lever controls, force the motor to be at idle when shifted.
I don't have an Electric shift motor rigged up on anything right now, or else I'd probably give it a try.

Yes, I have. I've even opened up a few different remote units that I have, to try to come up with an idea on just how to do this. The problem, is coming up with the right switches, given the space that you have to work with inside of the remote, plus the general layout of moving parts and the relationship that they will have to how you run the wires, etc.

I think that this could be done, but it will take some thought and probably a few tries at it, before a workable solution is found.



???

 

[Aratsman]

Re: Duh! Why Didn't I Think of That?

Boy, I wish I had a donor control box to play with