This picture is what a typical water diverter/deflector should look like when properly installed in a block. Bombardier sells them precut to the exact length.
Durban: There are NO pipes!!! In some cases hose was used, in other a solid cone rubber piece. I have even found hose with tooth picks and plastic rods in the center! No water is flowing through the 'inside' of the deflectors. The deflectors must seal off from bottom of the cooling channel and all to the head gasket to get the circulation right. Roughly the same circulation system have been used on the 20-35HP as well as the V4/6 Cross engines for decades, and one thing those of us that have earned our living repairing those engines have learned: See to that deflectors are in place and sealing properly OR change them!!
Here is another discussion and some pics for you to study: http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=355059
to me its just another inlet of water to the block the reason why they put the pipe in is to get some cold water up closer to the cylinder head k i understand what they were trying to do its no big train smash if i take them out all iam gonna do now is drill the hole bigger where the pipe goes that way iam gonna get more cold water comeing in , sweet
to me its just another inlet of water to the block the reason why they put the pipe in is to get some cold water up closer to the cylinder head k i understand what they were trying to do its no big train smash if i take them out all iam gonna do now is drill the hole bigger where the pipe goes that way iam gonna get more cold water comeing in , sweet
water restrictions & saltwater don't go together over the years it causes problems , if not flushed with Nitric Acid [salt away] , Iam gonna experiment with my m8ts motor & take them out . i under stand what one fella was saying about his m8ts motor , by drilling the hole bigger more cold water comes in , maybe that's what they should have done
Durban, your posts indicate that you are not listening to Haffiman.
Those rubber deflectors are NOT PIPES. They might seem so to you, but they DO NOT operate like a small pipe.
They could just as easily have been made with solid o-ring stock.
They prevent cooling water from flowing between the cylinders where they are installed. It causes the water flow thru the engine to follow a known given path, and prevents hotspots from developing around the cylinders.
Guys, durban never takes advice (numerous previous threads). I'll bet that's why joe reeves redacted his comments.
Durban fancies himself as an inventor and always thinks he has a better way. The way I look at it is he is enjoying himself and is willing to destroy some equipment in his research. Who knows, despite all his failures, he may someday stumble onto something we will all be able to use.
i still haven't given up on this one , we are just busy with stator at the moment , once that's sorted will do the final test , if it doesn't work then i do plan B , cheers
i still haven't given up on this one , we are just busy with stator at the moment , once that's sorted will do the final test , if it doesn't work then i do plan B , cheers
Hey Durban,
Hi to all, I'm new to forum,been reading your threads..........interesting! You made your own "saltaway", did your mods. painted inside motor blocks, chucked away deflector tubes.....and now you are talking about plan B. wonder what that might be.
I'm a newby with limited know-how on outboards.....
Could you Durban or someone help me here:I took my 50hp Mariner 4 stroke for a test run last weekend, it started easy and run okay,but after our 20 minutes anchor, it wont start. It took me good 10 or more cranks before it finally started, lucky the battery was new. Came home and tried again had same problem. Found the spark plugs had carbon. Any suggestion please
my plan B if it works i will tell you , at the moment iam still at plan A , the guys say it will over heat , if it does then ive got plan B , , ive done it with my 70hp & no problems , so i will try it on my m8ts 90hp
iam no MARINER fan sorry , i think you should put the question in that forum , i would however fiddle with the carbs , running maybe to rich in fuel causing the carbon build up & starting difficult
my plan b if it works i will tell you , at the moment iam still at plan a , the guys say it will over heat , if it does then ive got plan b , , ive done it with my 70hp & no problems , so i will try it on my m8ts 90hp
iam no mariner fan sorry , i think you should put the question in that forum , i would however fiddle with the carbs , running maybe to rich in fuel causing the carbon build up & starting difficult
someone said somthing back in this thread like "maybe omc have been getting it wrong for 40 years ?????
Well that is very possible.
lets see how durban gets on with his mod before this thread gets out of hand.
To those who think he dont understand what he is trying, just go look at what he has done to improve his other engines !!!!!!!!
just my take on it.
phill
I enjoy Durban's threads. The world needs more inventive people that haven't had all of their creativity and enthusiasm educated and micromanaged out of them. (full disclosure: I have 2 engineering degrees and a comp sci degree and manage people )
I actually think that OMC actually DID get it wrong 40 years ago. Their original water flow was messed up; the engines developed hot spots and they had to come up with a cheap and effective solution in the form of the rubber deflectors to get the flow right. IMHO
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I actually think that OMC actually DID get it wrong 40 years ago. Their original water flow was messed up; the engines developed hot spots and they had to come up with a cheap and effective solution in the form of the rubber deflectors to get the flow right. IMHO
A design that has been running and mainly working from mid 70's until mid 90's, taking into consideration casting techniques and at the time where CNC machines was not even heard of - I do not think they did too bad after all.
Why 'fix' something that is working and has been working for some 20+++ years?
Next might be that he starts turbo charging the T-ford and install exhaust catalyzer?
For own 'fun', I do not mind, but as a recommendation for those less knowledgeable and just wants their engines back in working order???
A design that has been running and mainly working from mid 70's until mid 90's, taking into consideration casting techniques and at the time where CNC machines was not even heard of - I do not think they did too bad after all.
Why 'fix' something that is working and has been working for some 20+++ years?
Next might be that he starts turbo charging the T-ford and install exhaust catalyzer?
For own 'fun', I do not mind, but as a recommendation for those less knowledgeable and just wants their engines back in working order???
Noooo, I did not imply at all that I would recommend changing the deflectors. They are obviously necessary to get the water flow correct to keep the cylinders at an even temperature. The designers would not have added them just for fun.
I feel very sorry for a lot of people on here who dont seem to understand what durban is saying or doing.
Yes i know some of you think you know everything and believe that the makers got it right.
Well if they were so right in their design, why didnt they put it right with metal in the castings in the first place ?
Didnt OMC test and re-test their product before building them on the production line ?
Now plenty of engines have suffered with heat problems and burnt out pistons due to the water passages getting clogged up.
Not all of these engines were abused and not kept flushed after each run in either salt or fresh water.
Most engineering improvements are only rectified by smaller engineering firms way after the makers have so called perfected their products
so who know's maybe durban can find a sollution, let's not attack him, wait and see his results.
PLAN B WORKS ,Try it for yourself , take your old gasket the impressions of the cylinder head will be left in the gasket , with a hole punch knock holes in according to my photo
phillnjack2 i thank you for your support , you will make a great team leader , cheers
Listen to the guys durban, the 'pipes' don't pipe water they are there to stop the water taking a shortcut under the cylinders instead of going over the top cylinder as it should.
Take a close look at the picture someone put up earlier.
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