Electric Shift Tilt Clutch

[Dsawyer]

I’m new here, been lurking for a while and as many have stated this site is a wealth of knowledge so thanks! I’m in the process of rebuilding a 1976 electric shift 235hp. I’ve repainted all parts and installed a new reverse coil and new seals. I ran into the first major problem today with the tilt clutch. It seems one of the studs that hold the tilt clutch cover on snapped of and took part of the housing with it. This is a new to me boat that I bought for 2k knowing it would need a little work so not a big deal. I’m looking for suggestions on how to fix this, first thing that came to mind is to take it to an aluminum welder and then tap a new hole for the stud. Since the tilt system is such a PIA i was wondering if it’s necessary? Is the tilt what keeps the prop in the water when in fwd/rev?

 

[Dsawyer]

[No message]

 

[southkogs]

Welcome aboard - Upper and lower look nice :thumb:

The clutch is what is turning to raise and lower your drive. When you're in the water with full draft, and you are runnin' forward - you don't necessarily need it. When you come off plane, the drive'll drag behind the boat and then thump down on the intermediate. But goin' backward it's what keeps the drive from pulling up out of the water on ya'. Not to mention, it's a place where water can make it into your hull. I'd say you need it.

A welder (good one) might be able to do it. There are some guys here who would know better than me. But, the little bit I ever had to putz with that pack, it could get jammed up somewhat easy if the shimming wasn't right.

 

[Dsawyer]

Three of the four bolts are in place so it would just be missing one. That said I’m not sure the one missing stud wouldn’t allow water into the clutch case. Additionally, the tilt functioned to lower the drive however would not function to raise the drive but I could hear the motor turning. I’m thinking the clutch is slipping possibly because the case cover is missing the stud and can’t get tight enough. Thoughts??

 

[Scott Danforth]

I would get it welded

 

[southkogs]

Agree with Scott above - regardless.

It could be the clutch pack, but even hearing the motor turn - it may be that too. What I would do is 1) repair the clutch pack. 2.) remove the electric tilt motor and clean and test, 3.) use a flat blade screw driver to turn the worm gear shaft to make sure the things are working back to the clutch pack. Replace parts as needed ... reassemble.

 

[Redrig]

can you just drill and tap it for the next size up bolt ? Then you would at least be able to test your theory of it not working due to missing one bolt

 

[Dsawyer]

It looks like the previous owner may have broke the bolt of possibly due to corrosion and some of the clutch housing broke of in the process. Also looks like he tried to repair it with JB weld or some sort of epoxy so there is no strength/material left to tap. The motor spins because the switch lowered the drive so I know the mechanical parts are functioning properly. Just wouldn’t raise the drive back up that’s whats leading me to think there may not be enough pressure on the clutch pack due to the one bolt being snapped off. Also don’t want to take the intermediate housing off so the boat would have to get taken to a welding shop wich will be a PITA. What do you guys think? Bad clutch?

 

[Scott Danforth]

Get it welded

Thia is not a place for JB weld

 

[kenny nunez]

If the tilt motor lowers but cannot raise the drive there are 4 things that could be wrong. And not in order.
#1 the tilt motor needs to be repaired or replaced.
#2 the clutch pack is not held together with the snap ring on the shaft. The pack is slipping.
#3 the drive mount trunnions are binding from corrosion.
Try just loosening the mount saddle bolts and see if the drive goes
up.
#4 not enough amperage from the battery.
As far as the broken corner of the housing try to get it repaired.

 

[Dsawyer]

https://youtu.be/Q0A5qqgPHsM

Worked on the boat a bit today, got the upper housing and new boot installed. Replaced the old wiring for the tilt motor to the solenoids and made sure everything was working. Without the tilt arm installed on the upper housing so there is no pressure on the trim wheel it works fine. When I bolted the trim arm on to the upper housing and engaged the switch all i got was a clicking noise??? Could this be from low amps?

 

[southkogs]

From looking at the video, the cover of the clutch pack is lifting off the housing almost in time with the clicking/grinding noise. Others will know better than me, but I think the clutch is slipping inside the housing. My (limited) experience with that housing is if it's not close & shimmed just right - it doesn't work.

 

[Dsawyer]

The cover is loose intentionally.....my question is what can cause a clicking noise when there is a load on the tilt system? Remove the load and it functions fine, load the system and it clicks???

 

[kenny nunez]

In the commutator head there is a thermal circuit breaker that either the contacts are corroded or the spring arm is weak from overloading. Have you inspected the inside of the motor?

 

[Dsawyer]

Haven’t taken the motor out, was trying to avoid that and have been telling myself that it works with no load so it must be good! I’ll take it out and inspect it. Thanks for the advice.