You may have a few problems. First, if your engine is a pull start, then there probably isn't a stator installed. And that means you can't charge anything being how there is no stator and/or a rectifier circuit. If you have a stator, then you should be able to find the appropriate rectifier and starter for it as well. However, if you do have that setup, I am not so sure disconnecting the charging circuit will work, especially if it is running. Usually an open charging circuit isn't a great idea for the rectifiers. So rethink this before moving forward. If you have plans to disconnect the charging circuit while it is not running, you could get away with that. But you still need a stator and rectifier setup. JMHO
Are you sure about this.
Thx Vic S, but yes there is an electric start conversion kit. The kit comes with everything you stated, except the solenoid. Even comes with the start button that goes in the tiller handle,
Yes, my motor is rope start, The electric start kit that I found from a dealer comes with, new flywheel, stator, rectifier, starter, start button and all the cables and hardware. If you go to Leeroy’s ramblings there is a link that talks about converting over to electric start, I’m only going to unplug the connector when the boat is parked and I want to completely charge the battery. And I am able to keep the rope start too,
Okay, the wire size totally depends on the current output of the start kit and stator. If the kit states how much current the stator output can be, then you buy the appropriate gauge wire to handle that current. For example, it the out put is 10 amp, and I don't see that much output happening, then 12 gauge would handle that all day long. Of course it all depends on the capability of the starter kit AND the distance to the battery. The longer the run to the battery (like in the front of the bow), the lower the gauge size wire you will need. But 12 gauge would be safe for most situations... JMHO
unless you got a bargainThx
