Re: electrical starting problems
<br />Rick,<br /><br />I've enclosed a small drawing shamelessly stolen from another site. You said that you removed the neutral safety switch for testing purposes, lets leave it jumped out for now. The picture shows a typical wiring for a solenoid without a neutral safety switch. This switch could go between the ignition switch and terminal S, or it could go between terminal ( I ) and ground. In either location, the safety switch will open the circuit if you're not in neutral and no voltage would get to the solenoid. For this explanation, we'll not show it for simplicity. Just make sure it's not just disconnected and the wires hanging 'open'. If the wires are disconnected from the safety switch, be sure you connect the 2 ends, this will complete the circuit, as it shows in the drawing.<br /><br />Terminal S gets voltage only when the key is turned to the start position. This voltage goes into the solenoid ( the coil of the solenoid) and comes out the other small terminal ( I ), which then goes to a ground connection, and the solenoid closes, sending voltage to the starter. .<br /><br />If you put your test meter red lead on Terminal S, black test lead to ground, and turn the key to the start position, you should see 12VDC. This shows that you are getting voltage TO the solenoid from the ignition switch. If you have no voltage, there is an 'open' or break in the wire going back to the ignition switch, OR the ignition switch is not getting voltage in the first place.<br /><br />To test the coil of the solenoid, leave the black test lead on ground.<br />Remove the ( I ) wire from the solenoid.<br />Put your red test lead on the ( I ) terminal of the solenoid and turn the key.<br />Again , you should see 12VDC on your meter.<br />Replace the wire going to the ( I ) terminal.<br />This shows that voltage it going thru the coil, which is good.<br />If you don't get 12VDC, the coil is 'Open' and you have a defective solenoid.<br /><br />The last thing to check is the wire ( I ) going to ground. As Hooty as suggested, run a wire from terminal ( I ) to a good ground connection and try again. <br /><br />Since you said that you have already tried Hooty's suggestion and it still won't work that leaves only a couple of things to check.<br /><br />Try this:<br />Turn the key to the run position<br />Jump Terminal A and terminal S. This will simulate turning the key to the start position by applying voltage to the S terminal. If this closes the solenoid and the starter spins, look for a bad ignition wire from the key switch. <br /><br />It's very possible, as suggested by OBJ, that the "Start' terminal on the key switch is burnt or only making enough contact to supply minimal voltage/current to the solenoid. This will still show up on the test meter as 12VDC, but will not be able to supply enough current to close the solenoid, stupid I know , but that electronics for ya. Replace the key switch.<br /><br />Last test:<br />Test meter black lead to ground<br />Test meter red lead to terminal B<br />Turn key to start <br />If you read 12VDC, the solenoid is closing as it should but theres not enough current to spin the motor, look for bad connections at the battery, solenoid connections A & B , and the starter connection and the starter ground (mounting bolts for the starter).<br /><br />Needless to say, starters draw large amounts of current to spin the motor and the connections at the battery, solenoid and starter must be clean and tight. Corroded connections can still show 12VDC voltages but NOT be able to pass the current needed to spin the starter. <br /><br />This info should keep you busy for awhile. Keep us posted on your progress.
? It is a 1969 Evinrude Triumph 55 Outboard. Model# 55973A and serial # JO4897. Thanks Rick
