electrical switch qustion

[bob johnson]

I am wiring my boat up from scratch and will us Rocker switches for turning things on and off.

they have standard ON-OFF switches...but they are rare...mostly the switches are combinations..

one is a Momentary on -off-on

some are even listed as what they could be used for

like a bilge pump with Mom on -off-on

why would anyone want a momentary postion??

I can undertsand for a windshield wiper...hit it once and it goes and stops.

how else is a momentary on needed?

if it is just a hit it and it is on...why do I need another postion that stays ON?

I got a small panel with my center console( bought seperate from boat) and it has a nav- anchor light switch.

up on for running lights down on for anchor lights

so basically it is one switch for two different objects that cant be on at the same time.. and it is wired to different fuses to boot!

I was going to just buy all ON-OFF for all my other needs.

cabin lights
extra bilge( have one switch now)
spot light
future live well aerator

also what size wire should i run for a future trolling motor


is there a standard color for most appliances??

or does it really matter?

I have lots of black and white wire

the boat will be used often in salt water....is tinned wire really that much better?



thanks for the help

 

[Blue Crabber]

Re: electrical switch qustion

Momentery ON - Off use for horns

On - Off - On are good for nav lights and anchor light (Then lights are all on the same switch)

ON - Off Rocker switches are used for most items.

Not sure what type of switches are used in livewells, etc.

(Tip: You may get better responses in the electronics / electrical area of the forum )

 

[ronnieb09]

Re: electrical switch qustion

The wire size depends on the size trolling motor you plan to run and the type of cable insulation. For a 40lb motor, #10AWG wire with standard THHN insulation would be plenty. If you plan to run anything larger, then some #8AWG would be a safe bet. Some guys may say that's overkill, but nothing wrong with beefing it up.

As for wire colors, standard Red(+) and Black(-) is good practice for a DC circuit.

The momentary switches are a good idea for anything that may cause a safety hazard if left in the ON position: horns, motors, etc. I can't think of too many marine applications, but there are plenty industrial/automotive applications that they are handy for(Nitrous System )

 

[Silvertip]

Re: electrical switch qustion

You are mistaken about your Nav/Anchor switch. You said they can't be on at the same time which is where you are mistaken. Underway BOTH nav and anchor (all around) lights must be on. While stopped or at anchor, only the stern (white)/anchor/all around light must be on. There are two ways and two switches for that application. Here are the diagrams.
Use this one if you do not want to use a diode.

This switch configuration can use a simple ON-OFF-ON switch but the diode is required. The diode is cheap from Radio Shack.

 

[bob johnson]

Re: electrical switch qustion

then LOWE boats must use a diode becasue I bought the factory Center console and it came with a set of three switches and a fuse panel and a wiring harness. one switch is a on-off-on switch and it says Nav up top and acnhor on the bottom side.

I know that navigation lights were the bow AND the anchor light together.

and anchor was just by itself.

thats why i was confused with this switch

I might have to look into the diode.

I just ordered the rest of the wiring harness from LOWE Boats. I know I can't use it as is, because I put the center console up a little furhter than they offered. But i wanted the pigtail connections, that fit the end of the harness that came with the Center Console parts i got.

thanks

 

[bob johnson]

Re: electrical switch qustion

You are mistaken about your Nav/Anchor switch. You said they can't be on at the same time which is where you are mistaken. Underway BOTH nav and anchor (all around) lights must be on. While stopped or at anchor, only the stern (white)/anchor/all around light must be on. There are two ways and two switches for that application. Here are the diagrams.
Use this one if you do not want to use a diode.

This switch configuration can use a simple ON-OFF-ON switch but the diode is required. The diode is cheap from Radio Shack.

my switch has 7 posts on the back one which has not wire to it now.

the panel with three switches and a fuse box came wired togther.

the other switches are bilge and aerator.



from the nav/anchor light switch there is a bunch of wires jumped on the back and in the anchor position( down) one of the two posts on the back side has a BLUE wire that does not go with the rest of the wireing harness.

it leads to a connector with three other wires one black ground, one purple ( coiled up near by with a male plug in connector at a terminal) then a pink wire that goes over and joins the harness.

I asked the factory for a wiring diagram and they said they dont offer one.

I am starting to think, that if i dont get a diagram....I may never be able to use this harness nor the harness i ordered that goes with the rest of the boat...

bob

 

[Ram58]

Re: electrical switch qustion

Another use for a momentary switch is with a live well. In one position the aerator runs continuously for filling the livewell, etc.. In the other position you run the aerator through a timer so it automatically kicks on at desired intervals.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: electrical switch qustion

Some switches will have an extra connection if the switch has an indicator light in it. That extra wire is typically the ground for the indicator light. But it would typically have a black wire on it if some wiring was already in place. You need to use an ohmmeter to determine what you have.

 

[joeld]

Re: electrical switch qustion

my switch has 7 posts on the back one which has not wire to it now.

the panel with three switches and a fuse box came wired togther.

the other switches are bilge and aerator.



from the nav/anchor light switch there is a bunch of wires jumped on the back and in the anchor position( down) one of the two posts on the back side has a BLUE wire that does not go with the rest of the wireing harness.

it leads to a connector with three other wires one black ground, one purple ( coiled up near by with a male plug in connector at a terminal) then a pink wire that goes over and joins the harness.

I asked the factory for a wiring diagram and they said they dont offer one.

I am starting to think, that if i dont get a diagram....I may never be able to use this harness nor the harness i ordered that goes with the rest of the boat...

bob

Thank you for the excellent diagrams. How would a dash light work into the second diagram, my dash lights are powered from this switch.

I would think that if I ran to Dash from both poles then that would backflush to the nav light?

Would I need another diode somewhere?

Thanks,
Joel

 

[Silvertip]

Re: electrical switch qustion

Wire it to the NAV side of the switch. That way the dash lights are on only when you are actually under way. They don't need to be on when the ANC light is on since you are not moving and hence saving battery power. No other changes are needed to the switch. For a typical boat diagram go to the very top of this forum and look at the "Generic Boat Diagram" sticky.