Elgin 5hp - before first start ... impeller, grease, ???

Joined
Oct 27, 2010
Messages
19
From what I have read, several have advised before the first start to replace the water cooling impeller.
Since the gas was more like tar, the motor pulls through like it is in tar, I thought that it might be smart to put some fresh oil threw the spark plug holes and mabe put some fresh grease in the lower unit.

What are the oppinions on cranking without replacing the impeller?
10% chance of screwing up or more like 90% having it break up?

Anything else before putting it to the test?
Anything besides a fresh impeller for a boat ride to insure a return on the same engine. Lol!

It sounds like the carb needles are first tested at 1 turn. Right?

Thanks!
 

Tom @ Buzzard Bluff

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 7, 2010
Messages
375
Re: Elgin 5hp - before first start ... impeller, grease, ???

By not providing a model # you're not apt to get responses to anything other than generic questions. Specifics such as initial high & low speed needle adjustments are as much mystery to us as to you since all we know is "5 horse Elgin". See the thread below:
"Sears Gamefisher outboard actually made by..."

We see people mis-identify their motors almost daily so we have come to trust only model #s for identification.

Give us a model # and tell us what you have done to rehab the motor to date and we'll have a starting place.

Edit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~flyingscott/> shows to have the 5-7.5 hp Elgin impellers in stock.
 
Joined
Oct 27, 2010
Messages
19
Re: Elgin 5hp - before first start ... impeller, grease, ???

The model number is 571.58561.
It is nearly rubbed off the engine cowling, so TG it was imprented on a plate on the steering handle.

Thanks, I'll take a look at Scott's web sight.
 

1946Zephyr

Vice Admiral
Joined
Oct 21, 2008
Messages
5,556
Re: Elgin 5hp - before first start ... impeller, grease, ???

I would lay the motor on it's back and dump a little bit of gas mix into the carb. Turn the flywheel over by hand slowly (so you don't activate the ignition coil) This will get fresh lube in around all the needle bearings and free up the powerhead. If it still feels stiff, then the lower unit will need to be dis-assembled, thoroughly cleaned out and re-lubed.

There....we didn't need any model, or serial numbers to follow these proceedures.

Elgines were built by West Bend and Scott. Some pics would be of help too.:cool:

Edit: According to what I found, yours is a West Bend motor, built in 1951 -52. You can find some good info here.

http://yankeeaomci.org/feature_outboard-2.htm
 
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