ELTO 4hp?

[racerone]

They did NOT have issues with the early CDI systems !-------These are economic / board room decisions.-----The CDI was the same whether it was a 4 HP motor or a 60 HP motor.------It just provides a voltage pulse to jump a gap.

 

[matt167]

right, likely a manufacturing cost issue, where they couldn't get a price or something, causing them to pull out.

Is the Nova II a worthy replacement? Since the modules cost the same as a set of points/ condensors

 

[tomhath]

It's unlikely that you need to replace the points or condensors. Clean the points, get a cheap ohmmeter and be sure they make perfect electrical contact and you should have a good spark.

 

[matt167]

I wouldn't go through the trouble without at least changing the points/ condensers,since I've actually had condensers cause lack of spark

 

[matt167]

I ordered 2 new coils, 2 NOVA II ignition modules and an impeller. I had an Amazon gift card balance for some reason, so all for $40

 

[matt167]

As to the 1997 4hp, It is the bottom cylinder that is stuck but it's not very stuck. I can feel it's going to let go. I've got gear oil pumped into both cylinders sitting right now. I wonder if I'll get it pulling over by the end of the day.. As to why gear oil. I'm out of ATF and Diesel, PB and my WD40 can is dead. It's literally what I got to work with

 

[racerone]

If it does free up are you going to assume that the precision bearings ( ball and needle type ) are not damaged ?-------And that motor is ready to run with no risk of coming to a " dynamic halt "

 

[matt167]

I'm not going to try to run it today. If I get it free, I'll be happy. For sure it needs gone through but getting it free is the first step in getting it serviceable again.

 

[matt167]

As I thought, this thing was barely stuck.. I let it sit for a couple hours with gear oil in the cylinders. But after I was able to break it free with a slight rock from an 11/16" wrench barely trying. Once it moved, it was spinning over like nothing happened. I'm going to test the compression and see if it's even.
EDIT... It's blowing 175 top, 180 bottom.. I've done enough for today. Just going to screw the plugs back in and put it away. But now I know it's worth saving

 

[matt167]

On the 1997 4hp, there is a choke/ fuel shutoff knob that runs to the carb bowl, and the control linkage 0326224 is broken. The part is NLA but I did find it for $35.. It's a 4" plastic rod, not worth $35. Which way does that fuel valve open? If I can't fabricate a new control rod I'll omit that fuel shutoff and put a lawnmower shutoff under the hood, and then just make a choke linkage hooked on the knob

 

[matt167]

I ordered a tune up kit for the '82 motor, and OEM manuals for both motors. Not sure how much I'm going to do with the '97 motor. It needs more and I don't need it.

 

[matt167]

Do I attempt to use the Nova II Transistors, installed on the side of the motor? or do I just put new points and condensor in it?

I bought new coils, Sierra tune up kit, and a Sierra impeller. But I also have the transistors. I bought everything to cover all bases, and it was still pretty cheap

 

[matt167]

I got this to run with the points/ condenser in it. Does not pump fuel very well but it runs.. So carb/ pump rebuild and new impeller and it'll be water ready

 

[JimS123]

On a completely other topic, I noted the Sea Ray in your signature line. There is an ad in the Buffalo Craigslist for a '64 CC Master Devil Ray. Thought you might be interested. Not many of them around any more. There are always a few CC's every year in the Grand Island, NY ACBS boat show.

 

[matt167]

I would, but finances/ space is not in order for yet another boat. There was a Manta Ray down this way for $500 a year or so ago that I should have bought.

The Custom Craft hull was sadly destroyed in a building collapse while it was apart for restoration. I saved everything off of it though, and I'm using all of the remains on my Chugger boat, since the Custom Craft was bought new by my grandfather.

I was always meaning to take the restored boat to Grand Island. I'll probably have to take it as a Lewis Chugger

 

[matt167]

Well, I put a kit in the carb, checked the impeller ( must have been recently serviced ). stuck it in a barrel and it was running in 1/2 dozen pulls or so. It seems like the carb still is not right, but it runs. It won't idle below the 'shift' range and seems to be wonky accelerating. I'll still check/ adjust the points and do a full sync on it although my eyeballs suggest the sync is pretty close

 

[oldboat1]

This is the 8hp, right? (J4BRHCNR).

You have to disassemble the carb, incl the expansion cap on the top. Soak metal top and bottom of the carb, with linkages in place. Remove the idle needle before soaking. I use lacquer thinner, but your choice as long as it cuts fuel varnish. Use soft wire in all openings (incl the h.s. nozzle running vertically into the carb top). Finish with carb spray into every opening, using the plastic nozzle. A test of the idle circuit on top is whether the motor idles down low and slow, and throttles up without stalling or hesitating. Initial needle setting is 1 1/2 turns open from lightly closed. Adjust from there (leaner -- clockwise -- until you get a stall or lean sneeze, then turn c.clockwise about 1/8 turn. This should get you close to best adjustment.

 

[matt167]

it's an '82 4hp but yes that is the model number

I got the carb pretty clean when I rebuilt it but I think the problem with idle lies in the fact the tip of the needle is bent pretty good... It just has sluggish throttle response, and it won't idle as low as it should. The float bowl is rusty. I scrubbed it out but it still has rust. I'm afraid if I scrub too hard I'm going to have a leak. I may need a new carb but if I can putt around off idle it will be fine

 

[matt167]

Well, I had someone look at my '97 Evinrude who has worked on the little twins before and he suggested just try to get it running. It's not really worth dumping too much money into and if it runs, it runs and if it blows up, I have the leg and stuff for parts as I originally intended, .. Nothing seems out of the ordinary. It has spark and great compression, but the carburator linkages are broken and the front airbox cover is broken. The one broken linkage is $35 and the other is $8 so I have a complete carburator coming that is very close to the same and has unbroken linkages. which I will modify the front plate to fit in place if needed. It's from an '88 with internal tank and the external tank fitting.. I gave $70 w/ tax for the carb.

The carburator I bought is very close to the right one for the '82 which has a messed up needle, and if the '97 goes out with a bang or locks up. I'll be able to add an internal tank to the '82 with some creative engineering and that new carburetor would allow it.

 

[Ocean31@bellsouth.net]

So....what did we ever do about the choke control linkage?

I have the same issue and 35.00 seems outrageous for a piece of plastic for a 150.0 value outboatd