Engine Flush

[scatgo]

Is there anyway to flush out a motor with a outdrive while the boat is in the water? Garden hose to outdrive type of flush.

 

[Sea Rider]

If the muffs ears doesn't lose to much pressurized water side of them can flush the motor ON, other alternative check if the motor has a dedicated flushing port on the block somewhere, if so connect a garden hose there with a flushing adapter and flush with motor OFF as long as you want...

Happy Boating​

 

[Scott Danforth]

Super Flush SF400

 

[bman440440]

Super Flush SF400

I think they might be out of business... I tried to email them a year ago when I was looking for one and never got a response... so I called and the mail box was full... so I tried to call several times and no bueno

 

[achris]

If this is going to be an ongoing task, look to setting it up so it's as easy as possible.
You need to allow the drive pump to keep doing it's job. You need to stop the pump water going to the engine, but redirect it out through the exhaust, and you need a way to introduce the fresh water to the engine. (Quick modification to an existing water flow diagram below)

The way I'd do it is as follows.
Put a 2-way valve in the incoming water line and a new hose from one of the valve outlets to one of the unused pipe fittings on one (or both) exhaust elbows. The other outlet is the existing water line to the thermostat housing.
Add a new incoming hose to the existing incoming hose, with a way of sealing it off (either a ball valve or a cap over the fitting). That's it for the hardware change.

How to operate it.
Normal operation - 2-way valve in 'Engine' position and auxiliary incoming line valve closed.
Flushing - 2-way valve in 'Bypass', freshwater hose connected to auxiliary inlet and its valve open.

Forget trying to flush the engine without it running, you'd never get any fresh water passed the thermostat and into the engine block.

FWIW...

Chris.....

 

[Scott Danforth]

I think they might be out of business... I tried to email them a year ago when I was looking for one and never got a response... so I called and the mail box was full... so I tried to call several times and no bueno

they are still at the trade shows.

 

[crazy charlie]

I flush both of my motors after every use.My boat is floating from May thru Oct and all I do is raise drives and lay on swim platform and slide the ear muffs on and run the motors for 5 mins each.Reaching down into the water goes to most of my bicep but not too far to skip doing the flush.I boat in salt and although I dont know anyone else that flushes ,I never let my motors sit overnight with salt water in them.NEVER.Charlie

 

[scatgo]

If this is going to be an ongoing task, look to setting it up so it's as easy as possible.
You need to allow the drive pump to keep doing it's job. You need to stop the pump water going to the engine, but redirect it out through the exhaust, and you need a way to introduce the fresh water to the engine. (Quick modification to an existing water flow diagram below)

The way I'd do it is as follows.
Put a 2-way valve in the incoming water line and a new hose from one of the valve outlets to one of the unused pipe fittings on one (or both) exhaust elbows. The other outlet is the existing water line to the thermostat housing.
Add a new incoming hose to the existing incoming hose, with a way of sealing it off (either a ball valve or a cap over the fitting). That's it for the hardware change.

How to operate it.
Normal operation - 2-way valve in 'Engine' position and auxiliary incoming line valve closed.
Flushing - 2-way valve in 'Bypass', freshwater hose connected to auxiliary inlet and its valve open.

Forget trying to flush the engine without it running, you'd never get any fresh water passed the thermostat and into the engine block.

FWIW...

Chris.....
View attachment 355309

Great idea! Thanks