Engine Removel ???????

[81 Checkmate]

Hello! Well i guess our luck ran out on the motor. It was fun while it lasted. We think its a rod bearing wont know untill we pull the motor. Thats the problem! We have everything disconected Drive, front motor mounts, Wirers, Hoses. But we cant get the two bolts broke loose at the bell houseing. Tried a 1/2 inch Elect impact no go. Sprayed the bolts down last night before giving up. It looks like a thru bolt with the bottom nut held in by the bellhouseing bracket to keep the nut from spinning. I am wondering if we could wiz wheel off the bolt head and then pull the motor? Does any one have any sugestions or tricks to get them loose?

 

[BAproject]

Re: Engine Removel ???????

soak 'em with PB blaster and let sit overnight. You can also try heating them up to free them. Make sure there are no gas fumes and the tank is sealed before attempting!

 

[81 Checkmate]

Re: Engine Removel ???????

Thanks. I am very conserned about useing heat becouse there is oil all over. But i guess we could wet everything down in this case. We did remove the engine cover so we have realy good access and ventalation. Are there rubber bushings inside the bellhouseing arm bracket? It looks like there is a outside coller sleave that sticks up about an inch that is thru the bellhouseing Then the bolt head with a flat washer under it. Does the coller stay on the houseing bracket?

 

[wire2]

Re: Engine Removal ???????

Re: Engine Removal ???????

Can you post a picture or drawing of the nuts in question? Are they rusted?
There is a small tool called a nut splitter available as a last resort. It doesn't harm the bolt. Nuts are cheap.

 

[Alpheus]

Re: Engine Removal ???????

Re: Engine Removal ???????

Can you post a picture or drawing of the nuts in question? Are they rusted?
There is a small tool called a nut splitter available as a last resort. It doesn't harm the bolt. Nuts are cheap.

You will never get a nut splitter on those nuts They are surrounded on 3/4 of nut.

Try a 50/50 mixture of acetone and auto tranny fluid in a spray bottle for penetrating fluid. Let it soak in and she'll come right off...

 

[81 Checkmate]

Re: Engine Removel ???????

They are the bolt heads like Alpheus said. You can barley see the nuts probley only one or two flats and rest is incased in bellhouseing nut holder thing to hold the nut from turning. I am going to try the 50/50 mixed stuff like he said and i guess i need to be very patcient to get them off. Any other ideas are welcome.

 

[81 Checkmate]

Re: Engine Removel ???????

Alpheus are there rubber bushings inside the bellhouseing bracket and if so are they replaceable? Thanks

 

[Bondo]

Re: Engine Removel ???????

Tried a 1/2 inch Elect impact no go.

Ayuh,... Use some Real power,... Like a Breaker Bar,+ Pipe....
Electric impacts are pretty much a Joke...

Yes, the bushings are replacable...

 

[Kaplooi]

Re: Engine Removel ???????

I agree with the breaker bar + cheater pipe. Use as many socket extensions as necessary to clear the motor and give you enough room to swing the pipe. That will give you enough torque to either break it loose or shear the head right off. One way or another you'll find out what gives first.

In the worst case the heads shear off but the motor can be pulled with the bolt shafts in place. You'll still be left with frozen studs that have to be removed though. But with the motor out you'll have all the access needed to try a large pipe wrench. I've had 'some' success at grinding flat spots on the round bolt sections so a pipe wrench has something to bite on, but it would definitely be a way ugly situation. There's no guarantee of being able to get the bolts off the transom plate so in the absolute absolute worst case you'd have to remove and replace the transom plate.

Are you sure the motor is resting level so as not to impart any undue tension on the bolts? (i.e. is the front of the motor too high or too low by any chance?) You could always try adjusting the front of the motor up or down and see if it helps any...Just a thought.

 

[81 Checkmate]

Re: Engine Removel ???????

Real Power AUGH! I like it. Will try all of the above. So you are saying the Bolt sleeve is part of the Transom plate and the bellhouseing will lift over sleeve. Did try and move the motor up and down while on the hoist. Our problem is we had to disconect front mounts on the motor not the studs. My Hopefull thinking was pull the Motor and replace the mounts up front. ?Question the bolts that are going into the stringers. What are the bolts going into Wood or some sorta Metal plate in the wood? Any ideas. Thanks again to all.

 

[Kaplooi]

Re: Engine Removel ???????

Yes the bolts should be threaded into nuts that sit in a slotted recess on the bottom of the transom plate below the engine flywheel mounts. So even if you sheared the heads you should be able to lift the engine out as long as you can pull the washers over the sheared heads (every bolt I've ever sheared has snapped 'clean') I'm guessing if your front motor mounts screw into the deck you simply have lag bolts that go through the plywood decking and into the wooden stringers.

If you're saying the front mounts were disconnected from the engine and not the lag bolts in the deck you could try reconnecting the front mounts and adjusting them to where they were before to support the front of the engine and then try loosening your rear mounts. But if you're satisfied you can get your hoist to support the front of the engine enough you shouldn't be getting too much binding due to engine weight.

 

[81 Checkmate]

Re: Engine Removel ???????

Thanks to all. Gotta go now will repost tommorrow with results. I am gona getter Done!!!!!

 

[81 Checkmate]

Re: Engine Removel ???????

All is good Motor came loose and out. Lotsa PB Blaster and aplied some heat with a propane torch and 3/4 drive socket with long extensions and a cheater bar for the leverage part. Broke loose moved a couple turns and elect impact the bolts the rest of the way out. I was saprised to see the nuts were very chincey not very thick, thought they would be a good size castle nut. Well puled the oil pan off and some metal shavings ( Copper Color ) in the buttom so we called a night. Now the big question??

1. Rework/repair the original motor
2. Buy a short block 350 and use the top half of the motor
3. Buy a junkyard truck 350 and swap all marine parts.
4. ?????

Any Thoughts!

 

[Alpheus]

Re: Engine Removel ???????

http://www.rapidomarine.com/default.aspx?p=/engines/default.aspx

 

[SteveH_1919]

Re: Engine Removel ???????

The question is what is junk on the old engine and how much is salvagable.

I bought a long block with distributor from ebasic power.
This was just a starter/alternator/manifolds swap and wire a few things up and drop the new engine in.

So far I have about 5k in the project. But that includes new starter/alternator and manifolds.

Good luck,
Steve

 

[81 Checkmate]

Re: Engine Removel ???????

Wow 5 Grand in a Motor. We just dont have a alot cash right now to spend right now. I wish we had the cash flow and we could build us a nice motor, thats what my son wants. Im hoping to find a good deal somewere. We will see.

 

[jthor3277]

Re: Engine Removel ???????

Hi 81 Checkmate. 5k is alot for a long block!! But it does really depend on what's salvageable. It also depends on how bad your damage is. You were making some good metal on metal, it's probably not good. You can have a machine shop clean up and mill your block/heads and what not. They will also flux it for cracks. It's the crankshaft and the rod end journals that you are most worried about. If it's your rod end journal bearings, then you are looking at an undersized crankshaft journal grind when all is said and done. Your main case journals might be okay. The cylinders walls must be checked as well. The effected rod end with the bad bearing will be out of round as well. Replace it if you are this deep. That can get a little costly but you might be able to find some used ones out there. Replace the lifters. A rebuild kit will come with all of these. Oil pump should be replaced if you were throwing metal. It can be done as there are rebuild kits out there. You can go the short block route as well if alot of your parts are in ok shape. Look around you'll be surprised in what you can find. Machining your old block/heads will cost you under a grand if everything just needs minor work. The crank grind, if you can find some one that does it anymore, is around $250. I hope this helps and soothes your pain alittle.

 

[Adirondack]

Re: Engine Removel ???????

My option of choice for an 81 boat would be a used 350 low mileage motor out of a truck preferably a wreck, and from a reputable salvage yard that will guarantee it. Swap in the marine cam with a new set of lifters provided it's in good condition. Replace all core plugs with brass marine plugs. Swap over ALL external components. Could put you back on the water for a little over a grand. This is of course considering you are an accomplished DIYer.

 

[Howard Sterndrive]

Re: Engine Removel ???????

5K? I guess that price reflects a long warranty or something

can buy a brand new crate motor for about $2Kfrom Chevrolet
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12499529/
Another $1000 for manifolds, carb, starter, belts, hoses, plugs, wires etc....should make it as new

 

[atomb]

Re: Engine Removel ???????

The question is what is junk on the old engine and how much is salvagable.

I bought a long block with distributor from ebasic power.
This was just a starter/alternator/manifolds swap and wire a few things up and drop the new engine in.

So far I have about 5k in the project. But that includes new starter/alternator and manifolds.

Good luck,
Steve

5k in the" project" not the engine I believe i could be wrong I dont think i am though.