Engine stopped working....

trobinson017

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 12, 2004
Messages
183
As I posted last week, I've rebuilt all my carbs now (Johnson 130 Oceanpro) and everything has seemed to be just fine. No leaking, good fuel delivery, boat performing normally, even yesterday. Today I went out for a hate-being-bored cruise which was at slow speeds (no planing) for about 40 minutes. I then got into a WOT area and let 'er rip (did this twice yesterday). About 3 minutes after planing and adjusting trim the engine made a weird groaning sound and then stopped. Luckily for me there were no ginormous cigarette or trawler type boats bearing down on me. My first thought was I caught a crab trap buoy that was submerged. I raised the motor and checked the prop, all looks okay. I lowered the motor and tried to start it but it wouldn't hardly turn over. I checked the battery connections; fine. I took the engine cover off to view the starter and fuel filter, then I tried to start it again. It fired up but was rough. I replaced the cover then turned right around and headed home (1.5 miles, slow speed). The motor did not sound right at all. As I approached my lift and had it in neutral it was very rough and stalled as I floated over the lift. My next thought was that the oil was low (oil injection system) but the alarm light and sound didn't alert me to that, which it has in the past. My oil tank is crammed next to battery #2 so I can't easily check it visually. I rely on the "low oil" and "no oil" alarm lights and sounds. To be safe I added more oil. I could hear it flowing into the tank, so it was either very low or quite possibly empty. For the record, I add oil about every 4th trip just to be safe. No long trips lately so not sure what's up. Anyway, I tried repeatedly to start it while on the lift with lower unit submerged and it starts up but dies within 20 seconds. I checked fuel-water separator; clean. I just replaced the bulb 2 days ago and rechecked those ring clamps; fine. Viewed the fuel in the filter; looks clean. Spark plugs were replaced about 8 months ago. New fuel is added weekly and I use the Stabil with Ethanol Treatment at every top-off.

So, what could have made the engine just stall at high throttle speed? I'm sure the reason is why it won't start now. Maybe a failing fuel pump? Could it have been low/no oil?

I'm not going to restart it until the morning when the engine is cool so any advice would be much appreciated!

Sorry for the long post but I wanted to include as much detail as reasonably possible.

TIA!!
 

HybridMX6

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 22, 2008
Messages
676
Re: Engine stopped working....

Honestly, it sounds bad. I'm not an expert by any means, but my first thoughts are either the OMS pump died, something is clogging carbs badly, or something has happened to the motor, in a bad way. Do you know how to do a compression test? If so, I'd recommend that right off since it's free to check. If all seems ok, go from there with other possibilities.
 

daselbee

Commander
Joined
Jan 20, 2009
Messages
2,765
Re: Engine stopped working....

Had it happen to me. Sorry.....so sorry.
You ran it lean, and one of the pistons heated up, swelled up, and scored/locked in the cylinder. Caused the immediate shutdown. When the engine cooled, you were able to start it and limp home. It only takes a minute or so to cool enough that the piston will free up in the cylinder.

Do a compression test, you will find one or more low compression cyls, probable #1 or #2 as they are highest in the block and can heat rapidly.

If a cyl is low, you must pull the head, and examine the damage. It cost me a powerhead...

Again...very sorry.
 

trobinson017

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 12, 2004
Messages
183
Update: Engine stopped working....

Update: Engine stopped working....

Ok. Since I rebuilt the carbs last week that's where I'm focusing my investigation. I found the corner of one float bowl assembly on one carb cracked. I hadn't noticed that before. It happened when I used a cheap torque wrench on it and the wrench didn't ever click. But it didn't crack at that time. It must have been over-torqued and cracked when I was hitting bumpy water yesterday. I guess that's letting in enough air to prevent the engine from running properly.

Does this make sense?
 

daselbee

Commander
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Jan 20, 2009
Messages
2,765
Re: Update: Engine stopped working....

Re: Update: Engine stopped working....

Easy enough to tell.
do the compression test. If you find one cyl low, see if it is the cyl that the cracked carb feeds.
Remember the "crossover effect" of the intake. The carb for #1 is on the port side of the engine.
 

daselbee

Commander
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Jan 20, 2009
Messages
2,765
Re: Update: Engine stopped working....

Re: Update: Engine stopped working....

What 130 do you have? What's the Model #?

Edit...I found it in a previous post. Yes, it is a 4 cyl looper, basically the same motor as my V6 200. The carb "crossover effect" is correct.
The highest carb feeds the highest cylinder...#1 is on starboard, but it's carb is on port side.
 

trobinson017

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 12, 2004
Messages
183
Re: Update: Engine stopped working....

Re: Update: Engine stopped working....

What 130 do you have? What's the Model #?

It's J130PXEE. I've never done a compression test. I googled it and I guess I need to buy a compression tester that screws into the spark plug port? Is that particular to each engine model or size? I can't find a specific one for "Johnson/Evinrude". Will any compression tester work?

Thanks!
 

daselbee

Commander
Joined
Jan 20, 2009
Messages
2,765
Re: Update: Engine stopped working....

Re: Update: Engine stopped working....

It's J130PXEE. I've never done a compression test. I googled it and I guess I need to buy a compression tester that screws into the spark plug port? Is that particular to each engine model or size? I can't find a specific one for "Johnson/Evinrude". Will any compression tester work?

Thanks!

Yes any automotive tester will work. You need to thread it into a standard spark plug hole which is 14mm in size. Mine came with all the adapters needed. That #4 is tricky, because the cowling maakes it hard to thread the tester into. Do not cross thread the holes!!!

You might try AutoZone to borrow one. Pay a small deposit...use it ...return it.

Your compression readings should be around 100 psi, 90 being minimum (my standards), and 110 being very good. All should be within 10% of each other.

Good luck. I hope I am wrong about your failure.
 

daselbee

Commander
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Jan 20, 2009
Messages
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Re: Update: Engine stopped working....

Re: Update: Engine stopped working....

Bumping this up...is the original poster still out there? What was the outcome on this issue?
 
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