engine swap, 4.3 to 5.0?

[Scott Danforth]

dont forget clean block - $100, line-hone - $180, re-deck - $140

if the crank needs to be re-ground, add $120-$180
R&R rods - $40
if you need to re-condition a rod, its cheaper to buy new rods

if you have the rotating assembly balanced, that is $180 + any mallory metal.

YMMV

 

[greno]

dont forget clean block - $100, line-hone - $180, re-deck - $140

if the crank needs to be re-ground, add $120-$180
R&R rods - $40
if you need to re-condition a rod, its cheaper to buy new rods

if you have the rotating assembly balanced, that is $180 + any mallory metal.

YMMV

He's not going to need anything but a bore and hone. Quit trying to scare the guy. He didn't blow the engine up and bend a bunch of stuff. All he has is a cracked block.

 

[Lou C]

I thought about going to a 5.7 in my boat when the time comes that I am tired of fixing the original engine. It makes sense only if you are willing to spend the extra cash to make all the other changes needed (ie different drive, exhaust system, just to start, then there may be a different carb, or you will need to get the one you have re-jetted). It could add up to a lot money wise. If the boat is not underpowered as it is, I would keep the V6, they are a nice engine that is quite economical. If you feel that the boat is underpowered, then go for it. It all depends on what you want and are willing to pay for.

 

[AShipShow]

I agree with the 4.3 camp. Personally, I would find a low mileage 4.3L vortec from a salvage yard ($500 bucks), get an edelbrock intake (and new marine carb unless yours is 4bbl already). Swap over all your marine gear and call it a day. That will put you up around 220 hp with 200lbs less than a V8. Unless you can find a donor boat with a guaranteed good outdrive and 5.7LX or MAG, your only going to get very marginal (maybe 15-30hp) gain with the addition of 200lbs.

 

[Scott Danforth]

He's not going to need anything but a bore and hone. Quit trying to scare the guy. He didn't blow the engine up and bend a bunch of stuff. All he has is a cracked block.

Most machine shops will no longer do a quicky bore and hone. They do a line-hone, deck, bore and hone to guarantee no come-backs

No one is scaring the guy. However the best iss for the OP to talk to his local machine shop directly

 

[achris]

.... However the best is for the OP to talk to his local machine shop directly

Best advice....