Engine swap. Raw water intake 4.3

[Vp4.3gi]

Maybe a dumb question, but I'm pulling my motor and dropping in a new one- same motor- 4.3gi from ~2000. I'm seeing mixed advice about whether to have to raw water line connected to the transom or the motor when dropping it in. I figure both are a bit tight to get to, but not sure which order to go in.

Also, exhaust risers and elbows. I feel like it would be easier to get gravitys help if I leave the risers and elbows on the motor and line them up and drop them in place, as opposed to wrestling trying to get the rubber on the elbow if I put the elbows in before lowering the motor into place.

Any advice would be appreciated. I'm pretty handy mechanically, but never swapped a motor before.
Thanks

 

[kenny nunez]

I prefer going through the bottom of the boat with a shut off valve. While a transom mounted pickup will work it just adds another rooster tail. Whichever one you do be sure to let water cycle through the drive to keep it cool by leaving the hose off that transfers water through the transom plate.

 

[Vp4.3gi]

Thanks, but I’m not asking about changing the water pickup location. The raw water comes through the drive- that’s staying the same. My question is about the short hose section that connects the transom plate to the longer hose running to the raw water pump. When I’m lowering the new engine in, is it easier to have that hose pre-connected to the engine and attach it to the transom fitting after, or leave it on the transom and connect the engine side after the motor is seated?

 

[Horigan]

I would leave the hose connected at the transom and move it out of the way for engine install, then connect to the engine once it's installed.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Have the hose mounted to the transom

Have the exhaust manifolds and elbows separate and install them in the boat