Engine swap (repower)

ddbyrd3

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 9, 2005
Messages
369
Re: Engine swap (repower)

OK, I have pulled my carbs off, inspected the top carb VERY carefully (Since the #1 cylinder had the dry piston)and noticed NOTHING out of the ordinary... No plug jets, high speed and low speed orafaces were clear, no worn vacuum lines on the block, fuel pump screen was perfectly clear. Everything appeard to look good..<br /><br />I will soak them while I wait patiently for iboats to send me my rebuild kits.
 

Basscat 1

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 11, 2005
Messages
444
Re: Engine swap (repower)

Remember, there are small tiny orfices that are in the throat of the carbs. Make sure these are clean. Not that you would, but some people over look them. ;)
 

ddbyrd3

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 9, 2005
Messages
369
Re: Engine swap (repower)

That is I believe the idel circuity. Definatly will blow all those out after they soak....
 

ddbyrd3

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 9, 2005
Messages
369
Re: Engine swap (repower)

I have a question for you smart guys.. I am looking at an exploded view of my intake manifold. Part number 0390436 CHECK VALVE was superceeded by part number 0392988. What are the check valves for?<br /><br />I figured since I have my carbs apart getting rebuilt, I might as well do my fuel pump, lines, and whatever else since I am there, and I saw these check valves and was wondering what is there purpose??<br /><br />Thanks.
 

ddbyrd3

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 9, 2005
Messages
369
Re: Engine swap (repower)

When you pump up a primer ball and it doesnt get and stay hard, it that a sign of an air leak in the fuel system somewhere. <br /><br />This is assuming the primer ball is in good condition?????
 

Solittle

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 28, 2002
Messages
7,518
Re: Engine swap (repower)

Yes that could indicate an air leak. If you have the standard OMC quick disconnects on the end of the fuel lines, a common cause for the air leaks is the small O ring inside the disconnect. You can visually check by depressing the brass ball inside the connector.
 

ddbyrd3

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 9, 2005
Messages
369
Re: Engine swap (repower)

Well I found an interesting problem. After pulling my carbs apart and finding nothing out of the ordinary wrong, I decided to go ahead and rebuild the fuel pump. <br /><br />As i was pulling all of the hoses off, I found the hose that goes from the fuel pump to the plastic manifold was rotted. It has a factory 90* bend in it, and unless you bend it backwards you would never be able to tell. <br /><br />It was REAL bad, I could see inside the hose it was so bad. I suppose that could be the reason I could only pull 4800RPM.<br /><br />Whats weird, is I would think you would be able to smell fuel, I didnt, not an unusual amount anyway. <br /><br />I will take it out this weekend and test run it again.
 

ddbyrd3

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 9, 2005
Messages
369
Re: Engine swap (repower)

OK, I finally had time to play with this thing again.....<br /><br />I want to thank all of you guys (gals) that has contributed to my post.. I have learned ALOT!!!!<br /><br />I took the boat out this weekend, after going thru the carbs, fuel pump, and replacing the cracked fuel line, it runs a whole lot better...<br /><br />I verified my timing again under load (on the trailer as DHadley suggested). Static was 24*, under load conditions, it was also 24*.<br /><br />I thought the coil packs were suppose to advance the additional 4* to hit max 28*???<br /><br />My book said for my make and model to adjust when the timing base hits the stop regardless of RPM, thats what I did, it was around 3500RPM, but the timing base was resting firmly on the stop.<br /><br />Could the coil packs be bad????
 

ddbyrd3

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 9, 2005
Messages
369
Re: Engine swap (repower)

Have I exceded my question quota for the month?? :p :p :p
 

ddbyrd3

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 9, 2005
Messages
369
Re: Engine swap (repower)

Good morning guys....<br /><br />I have had my boat out several times since my last post on this board. I would just like to post my finding for some final thoughts.<br /><br />After verifing timing, compression, rebuilding the carbs and fuel pump, fuel lines etc. My engine runs ALLOT better.<br /><br />But, I am still only pulling 4800-5000 RPM at full trim weather I run my SST 13x19 prop, or my Hustler 131/2 x 17 prop.<br /><br />I am getting full throttle (verified by throttle plates) timing is set at 24* static.<br /><br />I have replaced everything electrical EXCEPT for the power packs. Nothing has changed on the hull, and the motor location is still in its stocl location.<br /><br />Any thoughts????
 
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