Engine won’t turn over.

[spinbp5]

Hello forum members,
I have a 1994 Glastron with a mercruiser mcm 3.0L/LX, DEIS, 4 cylinder, displacement 181 CID, LH engine rotation, WOT RPM 4400-4800. TRANSOM Alpha One Power Trim XD 1.98R, standard rotation.
I had posted a few times last year and I got some real helpful feedback which resulted in a positive outcome. Thank you all.

New Issue: I’ve been able to start engine with just one turn of the key for over a month.
Today I attempted to start the boat (2 full forward motions to prime the carburetor and back to neutral then turned the key) and the motor wouldn’t turn over and the gauges don’t work (no sound from anywhere).
I’ve checked continuity from the battery to the ignition switch, starter, solenoid, relay, 50amp reset, and generator. Everything has 12.6v or higher. Fuses are all good. I am totally dumb founded as to what to do now. Id really appreciate any input possible. Thank you in advance.

BP
Spinbp6@gmail.com

 

[cyclops222]

Check that SAFETY Man Overboard Swith is still correct. Not off or loose.

 

[ESGWheel]

That your mention you gauge as well > i.e. they normally indicate when you turn on the key but are not coming on, coupled with no start, is curious. You say 12.6V everywhere: does this include at the starter (the main battery cable connected to it, the “R” in the picture)?

Also, test the “start wire’ has 12V when turning the key to start. This is the Y/R wire in this picture. IF you have 12V to both locations (the R when the battery switch is on, the Y/R when key to Start) then there is an issue with your starter UNLESS you monitor the voltage at the R and watch it drop to say 10 or less volts, then battery or corrosion of wires issue. IF you do not get 12V at the Y/R wire, then kill or neutral safety switches or start relay (if you have one). As to why the gauges not coming on, it may be a sperate issue but somehow, I do not think so. Need a wiring diagram.

 

[spinbp5]

That your mention you gauge as well > i.e. they normally indicate when you turn on the key but are not coming on, coupled with no start, is curious. You say 12.6V everywhere: does this include at the starter (the main battery cable connected to it, the “R” in the picture)?

Also, test the “start wire’ has 12V when turning the key to start. This is the Y/R wire in this picture. IF you have 12V to both locations (the R when the battery switch is on, the Y/R when key to Start) then there is an issue with your starter UNLESS you monitor the voltage at the R and watch it drop to say 10 or less volts, then battery or corrosion of wires issue. IF you do not get 12V at the Y/R wire, then kill or neutral safety switches or start relay (if you have one). As to why the gauges not coming on, it may be a sperate issue but somehow, I do not think so. Need a wiring diagram.

View attachment 405661

Yes, continuity includes the main battery cable to the starter. The battery is supplying power everywhere that it should. I just replaced the battery, starter, solenoid, relay, plugs, distributor, plug wires, carburetor, and the ignition switch.
The boat has been turning on every time I’ve attempted to start it. I’ll I was doing yesterday was adjusting the carburetor automatic choke. After I made the adjustment, I attempted to start it and everything was dead. I am going to pull the starter and do a bench test on it. I really don’t think the starter is the issue. Even if it is the starter, I think I should at least hear it click when I turn the key. I started it four times before I made the carb adjustment. I don’t see how that would cause the ignition to be completely dead on the console much less during startup.
I will also attempt the test that you mentioned about the start wire.
I really appreciate your input, thank you.

 

[cyclops222]

There is a odd shaped fuse on top of some starters. See if there is one on top of your starter. It may have opened up.

 

[ESGWheel]

Ignition Switch.

The ign. switch is the common element between no crank and gauges not coming on. I should have thought of that before but was headed there with the voltage check on the Y/R wire.

But need to back up a bit.

• First off, thanks for providing the rest of the detail on parts replaced. Based on that I will assume battery, connections and starter are all good. I.e. no need to bench test the starter, the key it to test it in-situ as outlined above.
• Second: I assume but want to be sure, that the engine started up and all worked just fine after all these components were replaced, including the ign. switch. Is that correct?

Now to the ign, switch. While I am not familiar with your set up, these switches generally operate the same. There is batt power to the switch and when turned on it provides power to the dash (gauges) + ign (coil) and when turned to the “start” position also provides power to the starter (that Y/R wire). Thus, using your multimeter (MM), with the battery switch on and ign switch off, test at the ign switch the power in. All other leads should be dead. Now turn ign switch to “On” (not “Start”) and see if you also have power to the gauges. And finally turn the switch to “Start” and should get +12V to the Y/R wire (may not be that color). I suspect that you will find the main power into the switch, which should be fused, is dead. I do not have a wiring diagram for this but found this link which may be helpful.

 

[alldodge]

Put voltmeter on ignition purple terminal, and see if voltage drops when turned to start

 

[cyclops222]

There is a odd shaped fuse on top of some starters. See if there is one on top of your starter. It may have opened up.

 

[spinbp5]

Check that SAFETY Man Overboard Swith is still correct. Not off or loose.

I’m sorry but I do not understand what you are telling me. I’m somewhat new to learning about this boat. Please forgive me if I can’t comprehend your terminology of abbreviated information.

Ignition Switch.

The ign. switch is the common element between no crank and gauges not coming on. I should have thought of that before but was headed there with the voltage check on the Y/R wire.

But need to back up a bit.

• First off, thanks for providing the rest of the detail on parts replaced. Based on that I will assume battery, connections and starter are all good. I.e. no need to bench test the starter, the key it to test it in-situ as outlined above.
• Second: I assume but want to be sure, that the engine started up and all worked just fine after all these components were replaced, including the ign. switch. Is that correct?

Now to the ign, switch. While I am not familiar with your set up, these switches generally operate the same. There is batt power to the switch and when turned on it provides power to the dash (gauges) + ign (coil) and when turned to the “start” position also provides power to the starter (that Y/R wire). Thus, using your multimeter (MM), with the battery switch on and ign switch off, test at the ign switch the power in. All other leads should be dead. Now turn ign switch to “On” (not “Start”) and see if you also have power to the gauges. And finally turn the switch to “Start” and should get +12V to the Y/R wire (may not be that color). I suspect that you will find the main power into the switch, which should be fused, is dead. I do not have a wiring diagram for this but found this link which may be helpful.

Ok, great input. I just finished testing the solenoid switch and I believe it to be bad. I tested it while it was still connected inside the boat and I verified that the starter works and the engine turns over. I then bench tested it using positive and negative connectors coming from the battery and my last connection was a small encased light that connects to the negative and at the other end was my final connection to the solenoid and the light never came on.
Would I be correct in thinking that the solenoid switch would not be the cause of my gauges not working? I am going to run the tests on the ignition switch as you suggested. Thank you for all of your help and support.

 

[spinbp5]

There is an odd shaped fuse on top of some starters. See if there is one on top of your starter. It may have opened up.

I do not see any fuse. I tested the solenoid switch and verified that the boat turns over and starts. I think the solenoid switch is bad. I had to short it to get the engine to turn over. The gauges still don’t work. I’m going to pull the ignition switch and test it as per another individual I’ve been talking with.

 

[spinbp5]

Put voltmeter on ignition purple terminal, and see if voltage drops when turned to start

Will do, thank you.

 

[spinbp5]

Will do, thank you.

Yes the voltage drops to zero.

 

[spinbp5]

I’m sorry but I do not understand what you are telling me. I’m somewhat new to learning about this boat. Please forgive me if I can’t comprehend your terminology of abbreviated information.

Ok, great input. I just finished testing the solenoid switch and I believe it to be bad. I tested it while it was still connected inside the boat and I verified that the starter works and the engine turns over. I then bench tested it using positive and negative connectors coming from the battery and my last connection was a small encased light that connects to the negative and at the other end was my final connection to the solenoid and the light never came on.
Would I be correct in thinking that the solenoid switch would not be the cause of my gauges not working? I am going to run the tests on the ignition switch as you suggested. Thank you for all of your help and support.

To answer your question about if the engine started after all parts were replaced, that would be YES.
I purchased the boat used last winter and used it 3 times and all hell broke loose with it. I put it in the shop and found that the block was cracked.

$4500 later I only used it once after the block repairs the boat wouldn’t start. I couldn’t afford to put it back in the shop so I purchased the manuals and started learning and troubleshooting.
Needless to say, after all of the parts were replaced I learned that it wasn’t starting because there was water in the gas.
With all that in mind, once I made the fuel correction the boat started right up every time. I only had one issue with it and that is that the rpm’s were way to high when it was put in forward motion. I attributed the rpm issues to the new carburetor that I put in and it was recommended that I pull the new carburetor out and put the old one back in because the old carburetor wasn’t faulty in the first place. It was watered down gas.
That said, a few days ago I did exactly that…I swapped out the carburetor’s and the boat started without fail. All I needed to do was adjust the automatic choke. After making the adjustment is when the boat lost all power and wouldn’t start and the console gauges stopped working. So there you have it my friend.
I’m going to check the ignition switch right now.

 

[spinbp5]

Ignition Switch.

The ign. switch is the common element between no crank and gauges not coming on. I should have thought of that before but was headed there with the voltage check on the Y/R wire.

But need to back up a bit.

• First off, thanks for providing the rest of the detail on parts replaced. Based on that I will assume battery, connections and starter are all good. I.e. no need to bench test the starter, the key it to test it in-situ as outlined above.
• Second: I assume but want to be sure, that the engine started up and all worked just fine after all these components were replaced, including the ign. switch. Is that correct?

Now to the ign, switch. While I am not familiar with your set up, these switches generally operate the same. There is batt power to the switch and when turned on it provides power to the dash (gauges) + ign (coil) and when turned to the “start” position also provides power to the starter (that Y/R wire). Thus, using your multimeter (MM), with the battery switch on and ign switch off, test at the ign switch the power in. All other leads should be dead. Now turn ign switch to “On” (not “Start”) and see if you also have power to the gauges. And finally turn the switch to “Start” and should get +12V to the Y/R wire (may not be that color). I suspect that you will find the main power into the switch, which should be fused, is dead. I do not have a wiring diagram for this but found this link which may be helpful.

To answer your question about if the engine started after all parts were replaced, that would be YES.
I purchased the boat used last winter and used it 3 times and all hell broke loose with it. I put it in the shop and found that the block was cracked.

$4500 later I only used it once after the block repairs the boat wouldn’t start. I couldn’t afford to put it back in the shop so I purchased the manuals and started learning and troubleshooting.
Needless to say, after all of the parts were replaced I learned that it wasn’t starting because there was water in the gas.
With all that in mind, once I made the fuel correction the boat started right up every time. I only had one issue with it and that is that the rpm’s were way to high when it was put in forward motion. I attributed the rpm issues to the new carburetor that I put in and it was recommended that I pull the new carburetor out and put the old one back in because the old carburetor wasn’t faulty in the first place. It was watered down gas.
That said, a few days ago I did exactly that…I swapped out the carburetor’s and the boat started without fail. All I needed to do was adjust the automatic choke. After making the adjustment is when the boat lost all power and wouldn’t start and the console gauges stopped working. So there you have it my friend.
I’m going to check the ignition switch right now.

 

[spinbp5]

Ignition Switch.

The ign. switch is the common element between no crank and gauges not coming on. I should have thought of that before but was headed there with the voltage check on the Y/R wire.

But need to back up a bit.

• First off, thanks for providing the rest of the detail on parts replaced. Based on that I will assume battery, connections and starter are all good. I.e. no need to bench test the starter, the key it to test it in-situ as outlined above.
• Second: I assume but want to be sure, that the engine started up and all worked just fine after all these components were replaced, including the ign. switch. Is that correct?

Now to the ign, switch. While I am not familiar with your set up, these switches generally operate the same. There is batt power to the switch and when turned on it provides power to the dash (gauges) + ign (coil) and when turned to the “start” position also provides power to the starter (that Y/R wire). Thus, using your multimeter (MM), with the battery switch on and ign switch off, test at the ign switch the power in. All other leads should be dead. Now turn ign switch to “On” (not “Start”) and see if you also have power to the gauges. And finally turn the switch to “Start” and should get +12V to the Y/R wire (may not be that color). I suspect that you will find the main power into the switch, which should be fused, is dead. I do not have a wiring diagram for this but found this link which may be helpful.

Testing the ignition switch…MM connection to the battery red line on the switch and negative on Y/R before turning key to on position is +12 and the same for purple. When I turn the key to on position MM goes to zero on Y/R and purple which were tested separately. No guage activity.

 

[alldodge]

Yes the voltage drops to zero.

It's corrosion
Start at the battery cables both pos and neg and clean both ends to shinny metal.

If that doesn't fix it, pull the 10 pin engine connector apart and clean the contacts on both sides. Reconnect and try again

 

[ESGWheel]

Lots going on here and one of the things I enjoy about this forum is I am always learning while also trying to help.

• First off, ouch cost to do the block and glad you were able to overcome.
• Second, sounds like you have a working ign switch, so that is good.

Another common element is that 10 pin connector as AllDodge is highlighting. Given the extensive work you have been doing I assume you are familiar with it but just in case > it is the large cable/plug that connects the dash gauges, ign switch, etc. to the engine harness. It looks like the picture below and is in the engine compartment. Look for loose or frayed wires prior to pulling it apart and once apart look at both the male and female ends. Are any of the male pins pushed back from the others? Is there noticeable corrosion or discoloration on the pins or sleeves? Those are issues. You must be careful when cleaning the male pins and female sleeves. They do make tools for it like this link and spray cleaners link. If all looks ok, simply plug it in and unplug it a few times to help with a positive electrical connection.

Keep at it, you will get this solved. I am betting that based on your descriptions that this is going to turn out to be something simple. The challenge is finding it!

 

[cyclops222]

Bingo on that huge plug & socket. My problem on a 2002 Mercruiser. Pins get tired and get smaller I D on the pin. Or spread apart on the sockets.

 

[spinbp5]

Ignition Switch.

The ign. switch is the common element between no crank and gauges not coming on. I should have thought of that before but was headed there with the voltage check on the Y/R wire.

But need to back up a bit.

• First off, thanks for providing the rest of the detail on parts replaced. Based on that I will assume battery, connections and starter are all good. I.e. no need to bench test the starter, the key it to test it in-situ as outlined above.
• Second: I assume but want to be sure, that the engine started up and all worked just fine after all these components were replaced, including the ign. switch. Is that correct?

Now to the ign, switch. While I am not familiar with your set up, these switches generally operate the same. There is batt power to the switch and when turned on it provides power to the dash (gauges) + ign (coil) and when turned to the “start” position also provides power to the starter (that Y/R wire). Thus, using your multimeter (MM), with the battery switch on and ign switch off, test at the ign switch the power in. All other leads should be dead. Now turn ign switch to “On” (not “Start”) and see if you also have power to the gauges. And finally turn the switch to “Start” and should get +12V to the Y/R wire (may not be that color). I suspect that you will find the main power into the switch, which should be fused, is dead. I do not have a wiring diagram for this but found this link which may be helpful.

Well I got the boat to start. While checking the ignition switch connections I learned that there was an apparent shorting the purple wire connection. Thank you for going the extra mile in providing me with the information that led me to checking those connections. I appreciate you very much.

 

[spinbp5]

Lots going on here and one of the things I enjoy about this forum is I am always learning while also trying to help.

• First off, ouch cost to do the block and glad you were able to overcome.
• Second, sounds like you have a working ign switch, so that is good.

Another common element is that 10 pin connector as AllDodge is highlighting. Given the extensive work you have been doing I assume you are familiar with it but just in case > it is the large cable/plug that connects the dash gauges, ign switch, etc. to the engine harness. It looks like the picture below and is in the engine compartment. Look for loose or frayed wires prior to pulling it apart and once apart look at both the male and female ends. Are any of the male pins pushed back from the others? Is there noticeable corrosion or discoloration on the pins or sleeves? Those are issues. You must be careful when cleaning the male pins and female sleeves. They do make tools for it like this link and spray cleaners link. If all looks ok, simply plug it in and unplug it a few times to help with a positive electrical connection.

Keep at it, you will get this solved. I am betting that based on your descriptions that this is going to turn out to be something simple. The challenge is finding it!

View attachment 405685

Well I got the boat to start. While checking the ignition switch connections I learned that there was an apparent shorting the purple wire connection. Thank you for going the extra mile in providing me with the information that led me to checking those connections. I appreciate you very much.