66 views with 2 responses. Woefully inadequate.
What engine are we talking about? What's your serial number?
Disconnect the kill switch circuit to leave it out of diagnostics. It's confusing you. Leave it out for now. If by some miracle the engine starts and runs you can kill it by choking it.
Have to go back to basics:
Fresh, clean premix fuel on hand for when you're ready for it. Put it aside for now.
Compression test should show greater than 85 psi. You are probably okay but good to know as a gauge of power head health.
Air gap spark test (must jump 3/8" air gap), cleanly and consistently.
As per CaptKingfisher, you need to verify solid ignition before you go any further. Forget the kill circuit, disconnect it. It's confusing you. Forget the carburetor, you're not ready to evaluate it yet.
Put a timing light on the spark plug wires. Easy test. Mark the flywheel at each cylinder TDC. Find TDC by using a little straw in the spark plug hole feeling the piston arrive at the top of it's stroke. You ight be able to see it with a flashlight. Mark the flywheel for that cylinder 1, 2, etc... Remove the park plugs and ground them to the engine block with a little wire, so there's no compression, no chance of starting and no damage to your electrical components. Spin the engine with a drill attached to the flywheel. Look at each cylinders timing results: no firing, misfiring, crosstalk, etc... Each cylinder signal should be clean and consistent, no random flashing stuff. This will tell you the next level of symptom and where to go troubleshooting.
Only when you have consistent ignition operation do you move on to the fuel system.
Post results so we can help you.
J
