epoxy/glass shower pan

[cornercanyon]

This is a bit off topic, but working with the glass cloth and epoxy has me wondering. As a home builder we always struggle with finding a tiler setter who can really seal a tiled shower. Since most of the work we do is custom and rarely a standard size I was wondering.

Could you build a shower pan with epoxy and cloth and then tile over that?

 

[Ridemywideglide]

Re: epoxy/glass shower pan

Sealing a shower, and building a pan are 2 completely different animals.

If you have trouble finding a tile guy who can stick a pan without leaking you must be scraping the bottom of the sub bucket.

I am a tile guy, and I can't see anything usefull about fiberglass (at the home install level) that would make it attractive for this use. Even the precast fiberglass shower basins are crap. People using those are just trying to save a buck.

Research how to properly build a pan, and make your guy build it to your specs or don't pay him, it's that simple. Most guys run liner right on the subfloor. This is a leak waiting to happen. You must pour a sloped pre-float, then set liner, dogearing the corners and NOT cutting anywhere except for the curb. Then use some noble-seal to seal the cuts and add-ons you have to make for the curb. Then pour the final float/curb all at once with the liner extended into the center, up to just below the surface of curb. Sometimes I use bricks for a curb but pouring with final float is the way to go. Then before you stick tile, use red guard or similar around the whole curb area. I charge $45 per foot on pans. I buy all materials, and I guarantee my work will not leak. It's not cheap, but it will last longer than the rest of the house.

 

[cornercanyon]

Re: epoxy/glass shower pan

Thanks for the comments!

Let me think about your method a bit. You input is appreciated.

 

[Ridemywideglide]

Re: epoxy/glass shower pan

I'll see if I can find a website with pics of how I do them.. I was taught this way and it's what I use because I know it works. There are several options out there tho. I was appaled the first time I had to demo someone elses pan only to find the liner sitting on the wood, causing puddles of water to form in the concrete... Not good...

 

[NSBCraig]

Re: epoxy/glass shower pan

Yeah some proper used shower pad is the way to go.

I've built quite a few and none have leaked.

 

[cornercanyon]

Re: epoxy/glass shower pan

Ridemywideglide thanks for your help, though not inexpensive your method sounds well thought out. I appreciate it.

 

[Ridemywideglide]

Re: epoxy/glass shower pan

While not inexpensive when your paying me to build one, it's not that bad if you feel you want to tackle it yourself.

I use the green mason mix bags from homedepot, about $5 a bag. And the liner I use is military spec 40mil PVC membrane, about $1.50 per sq/ft. The military spec is just what the supply house carries, any 40mil PVC membane will fit the bill.. You can see that the materials are cheap, if you have some ability, save a lot of money.
I figure 5 bags (or thereabouts) for a 3x3 pan, plus the 5x5 liner..

http://hoagy.org/house/HowToBuildShowerPan.html

Here's a site I found that closely replicates my procedure. I however do not use chickenwire in the final float, and it's not 3 inches thick either. Usually the pre-float is run from the 2x4 plate to the drain. I like to bump up the drain 1/2 inch or so above the floor. Of course this all depends on the size and layout of the pan your building. Look to keep 1/8th inch/foot slope. It's water, not jello, it will drain with minimal slope. With the pre-float going from about 1.5", to about .75 at the drain, keeps it strong. When you do the final float it will be pretty consistant in thickness, about 1.25-1.5 from wall to drain.
Scratch the roofing paper also. Abrasion happens when things repeatedly slide against each other. Your pan will not be sliding, thus there is no abrasion. Glue liner bottom to drain, DO NOT glue the top ring down, you'll plug the weep holes. Also, pepples arent needed at weep holes. Concrete is pourous and will drain water at the weep holes, that's the whole reason for putting a PVC liner in here.

I can't tell, but his mud looks pretty dry. You need a dry mix. Just enough water that you can ball it up in your hand and it will stay. If you drop the ball it should totally blow apart. You want to dry pack to avoid bubbles in both pre and final float. This is why I get $45/ft. Smacking dry mix concrete with a wooden trowel for 1-4 hours, gets old fast...
I usually take a sponge and sprinkle water on the final after it's all packed in and trowel it just to give a nice finish. It helps to keep it together better while your tiling the walls and whatnot.

It's not rocket science, anyone can do it. Just apply logic and you'll be fine. PM me if you need too..

Brad

<edit>

Also, DON'T install over linoleum as he did.. LOL... Pull that stuff out.

 

[cornercanyon]

Re: epoxy/glass shower pan

Ridemywideglide....

Thanks for all the info.

My boy and I can do all that no problem. I think the issue relates back to your original post that our level of tile contractor is not what it could be. I think for that kind of money I'd just a soon do it myself, and teach the boy so he can start building up his college fund. As you said it's not rocket science, just good sense and the willingness to care about the end product.

Thanks again I appreciate it.