ESA module

[Ducatinut]

Re: ESA module

ASSuming that the trigger switch itself is not bad (have you tested that, yet? could be corroded internally) and it's actually the ESA, just bypass the blasted thing and set it up like Merc does.

All you need is a quick splice and about a foot of single conductor wire. Splice that into the hot side of the switch that is actuated by the cam in the dead center of Bruce's photo (the switch with the long throw arm on it) and run that to the negative side of your coil.

We found when developing the Cobra conversion kit that the ESA is pretty unreliable at this stage (most of them are 20 or so years old now). Set the idle around 750-850 rpm and go boating...

Troubleshooting problems is fun, but this is an easy one - ten minutes and the ESA is irrelevant.... Spend that time changing oil, doing a tune up and getting your safety equipment in order.

Fair winds,

Chris

 

[Black as]

Re: ESA module

ASSuming that the trigger switch itself is not bad (have you tested that, yet? could be corroded internally) and it's actually the ESA, just bypass the blasted thing and set it up like Merc does.

All you need is a quick splice and about a foot of single conductor wire. Splice that into the hot side of the switch that is actuated by the cam in the dead center of Bruce's photo (the switch with the long throw arm on it) and run that to the negative side of your coil.

We found when developing the Cobra conversion kit that the ESA is pretty unreliable at this stage (most of them are 20 or so years old now). Set the idle around 750-850 rpm and go boating...

Troubleshooting problems is fun, but this is an easy one - ten minutes and the ESA is irrelevant.... Spend that time changing oil, doing a tune up and getting your safety equipment in order.

Fair winds,

Chris

O.K this sounds like a good way to go, what do you mean by the hot side of the switch ?

 

[Ducatinut]

Re: ESA module

O.K this sounds like a good way to go, what do you mean by the hot side of the switch ?

The side that doesn't go to ground - basically, the wire that heads into the ESA harness. I can't point it out in the photo (and it's dark and raining here), but the switch should have a wire that is bolted/screwed to the shift plate. Tap into the other one..

Fair winds,

Chris

 

[Black as]

Re: ESA module

The side that doesn't go to ground - basically, the wire that heads into the ESA harness. I can't point it out in the photo (and it's dark and raining here), but the switch should have a wire that is bolted/screwed to the shift plate. Tap into the other one..

Fair winds,

Chris

Ya hoo.. the other wire not the grounded wire and don't worry about the overthrow switch or any other wiring, sounds to easy

 

[Black as]

Re: ESA module

ASSuming that the trigger switch itself is not bad (have you tested that, yet? could be corroded internally) and it's actually the ESA, just bypass the blasted thing and set it up like Merc does.

All you need is a quick splice and about a foot of single conductor wire. Splice that into the hot side of the switch that is actuated by the cam in the dead center of Bruce's photo (the switch with the long throw arm on it) and run that to the negative side of your coil.

We found when developing the Cobra conversion kit that the ESA is pretty unreliable at this stage (most of them are 20 or so years old now). Set the idle around 750-850 rpm and go boating...

Troubleshooting problems is fun, but this is an easy one - ten minutes and the ESA is irrelevant.... Spend that time changing oil, doing a tune up and getting your safety equipment in order.

Fair winds,

Chris

O.K. i have found 2 blue wires coming out of the ESA module and 2 brown wires coming out of the overthrow switch, see 2nd pic, they all go into a black plug and on the other side of the black plug I have a blue looped wire that goes back in the plug. Then there is a blue wire and a brown wire the brown goes to earth on the motor and the other I presume goes to the coil refer to the 3rd pic.

So Im not sure which wires I should splice? I also downloaded the wiring diagram that BruceB58 said to download is it possibble you can tell me the number of the wire and then its 100% accurate that the right wire is spliced direct to the coil.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: ESA module

Since your ESA may still be good but you have no idea if the switches are or adjusted properly, why don't you do what I suggested before and download the manual and test the switches. Personally, I would stick with the ESA method. If your shift cable does get sticky...and it will...you will be glad you have the ESA type of shift assist. If you switch to the Mercruiser method, a sticky shift cable will stall your engine completely and you are going to be dead in the water wondering what happened.

 

[Black as]

Re: ESA module

Since your ESA may still be good but you have no idea if the switches are or adjusted properly, why don't you do what I suggested before and download the manual and test the switches. Personally, I would stick with the ESA method. If your shift cable does get sticky...and it will...you will be glad you have the ESA type of shift assist. If you switch to the Mercruiser method, a sticky shift cable will stall your engine completely and you are going to be dead in the water wondering what happened.

I was actually thinking the same thing last night , Im taking it out for its first test drive today hopefully fingers crossed it all goes well, Ive worked on this boat every night for the past month and feel comfortable that everything should be o.k. ....shift mechanism Mmmm not really sure

 

[Black as]

Re: ESA module

No need to splice any wires went out today for the first time and the boat went great, gears changed perfectly and we had a great day out, thanks to evryone on this forum for all there valued advise,

 

[Gary H NC]

Re: ESA module

See...All that worry for nothing!

Glad you had a great first cruise...