Escort trailer axle sag help.

[GA_Boater]

Weigh the boat and trailer. You don't need to know how much the boat weighs, you need to what the rig weighs with the boat on it.

Did you look at your state paperwork to see if it has the trailer GVWR on it? It should be more than what the scale says for the boat and trailer together. We almost have to assume the rig wasn't over rating if the trailer is original. If over the trailer GVWR now, the boat gained weight, not the trailer.

It's possible you need a new axle and/or the boat lightened.

 

[DunbarLtd]

I was issued a new vin because the original was faded and unreadable. Why they didnt stamp the trailers back then is beyond me. So the only rating they gave (on the title) was empty weight which is 370lbs.

No GVWR

 

[DunbarLtd]

I looked on the faded trailer sticker and somehow I was able to see the GVWR. Wish I could see the tire psi rating though.

GVWR = 2090 lbs.

Trailer weight assuming dmv is correct is 370lbs.

Now what do I do when I weight it?

 

[JASinIL2006]

Here's a thread addressing that process; there are dozens more, I bet. To me, it looks like the procedure in post #12 would be the one for you.

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/gen...nd-towing/307877-weighing-my-boat-and-trailer

 

[Silvertip]

An overloaded trailer will indeed cause a downward bow in the axle if it is actually the weak spot in the entire scheme of things. I would do nothing until you launch the boat again. Then check the axle with no load. I'm betting it may not return to fully straight but definitely straighter than it was. If the bend is still the same as when loaded, then perhaps action is necessary and there are some options. But first lets consider replacing the axle with a 3500# unit. The inner and outer bearings on a 2000# axle are typically the same on a 2000# axle. The inner bearing is larger on a 3500# axle so hubs would need to be changed as well. 3500# axles are typically cambered meaning they have an UPWARD bend in them so that they tend to straighten when loaded at or near the maximum load. You then need to consider whether you need a cambered axle with the spring perches on top of or below the axle. You can buy a complete axle & hub unit but chances are the new hubs will be five bolt and will require minimum 13, 14, or 15 inch wheels and tires depending on how close to the 3500# limit you want this trailer to haul. For resale, if you install a 3500# axle, put tires and wheels on it to match that load.

Lastly, you can have the axle straightened but since it bent due to overloading, it will likely bend again. Once metal is bent and straightened, it is weaker than it was before.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I looked on the faded trailer sticker and somehow I was able to see the GVWR. Wish I could see the tire psi rating though.

GVWR = 2090 lbs.

Trailer weight assuming dmv is correct is 370lbs.

Now what do I do when I weight it?

I doubt the trailer weighs only 370#. most single axle aluminum jet ski trailers weigh about that

if you have a steel trailer with a single axle for a 18' boat, assume your trailer is closer to 600# or more

weigh the truck and trailer with the boat at your local scale, then weigh just the truck. subtract the trailer weight and i bet you find that the boat weighs much more than expected.

the 80s and 90s bayliners are not known to last 32 years without having lots of water in the foam.

 

[DunbarLtd]

The trailer is Galvanized and is 17ft. Without a spare tire attached since i removed it. No brakes. 12" wheels. Im not sure where they came up with that weight but its on the title i received after registering it.

I would think the DMV would not post inaccurate information to a vehicle title but you never know i guess. I never questioned them. I may give them a call soon and ask where they got the number.

 

[GA_Boater]

The weight of the trailer is insignificant when you need to know if the total boat and trailer weight exceeds the 2090 GVWR. The trailer counts in that total.

It comes down to how much total weight is on the wheels and tongue. Then you can decide on straightening the axle, replacing it or upgrading it.

 

[ahicks]

The trailer is Galvanized and is 17ft. Without a spare tire attached since i removed it. No brakes. 12" wheels. Im not sure where they came up with that weight but its on the title i received after registering it.

I would think the DMV would not post inaccurate information to a vehicle title but you never know i guess. I never questioned them. I may give them a call soon and ask where they got the number.

The DMV got that number from a certified weight slip given to them by the current owner, or from the manf's certificate of origin, supplied with all new trailers.

Splitting hairs with the weight of this trailer is a waste of time in my view. Even if it's a 100 pounds heavier, so what? Are the GVW police going to pull you over for being 100lbs over? Of course not.....

Move forward.

 

[Scott Danforth]

the point isnt the weight of the trailer. the point is the weight of the 800 or 1000# of water most likely in the hull of the bayliner which lead to the bending of the original axle on the original Bayliner Escort trailer (yes, Bayliner made their own trailers).

the DMV reports the weight that was associated from the VIN from prior registration, not necessarily from the OEM data. back in 1988 the DMV's didnt care about weights of the trailers, that little bit of taxable information was added later across this country as additional registration revenue and the DMV doesnt cross check (at least not in Florida)

the point is, to determine exactly how much extra water weight is in the boat, the weight of the trailer will need to be known.

from what I found a 18' galvanized escort trailer is about 625# and the 17' is about 550# . keep in mind the painted tandem axle trailer under my SeaRay was 1250# (rated to carry 4500# and the stamped steel 15' trailer under my 14' tinny is 350# running on 8" wheels. The single axle 15' karavan trailer under the neighbors jetski is 410# and rated to carry 1500#

if the GVWR is the 2090 (per OP in post 23) and the tested weigh of the boat, motor, and fuel was 2088 (per OP in post 1), it was the wrong trailer under the the boat when he bought it because the trailer can only weigh 2# with that combination (the weight of the lug-nuts and the hub bearings). with a GVWR or 2090#, the trailer is only allowed to carry about 1500# and would be over-loaded without water weight or fuel or most of the motor.

back to the OP and the point of this. weigh the boat and trailer. use either the 370# from your registration or use about 550# for what I believe to be the actual weight of the trailer. you may find that you are between 500# and 1000# over the rating of the trailer.

 

[ahicks]

I agree Scott. Getting the boat weighed is a good plan. My point was, that it makes very little difference in a good plan of action whether the trailer weighs 390 or 550. It's not going to change a single thing! I think there is little doubt the existing trailer capacity is marginal at best. It's also true dealers (or more likely a salesman trying to put a deal together) will often sell you the absolute minimum trailer to keep the total package price down. That's history though.

Moving forward, we need to know the boat's weight to determine what's mashing the springs and bending the axle. If it does turn out to be dry, we'll need to address both those issues. If the hull is waterlogged, there are some decisions that need to be made. The first being, do we want to keep it and fix it, or something else....

Focus should be on the question regarding do I fix the trailer by increasing it's capacity (assuming the boat will be trailered frequently), OR, am I up for some serious time and money repairing a waterlogged boat?

And last, you can get the wide profile 10" tires and wheels, and the 12", in 4 or 5 lug patterns. I like the idea of spending the few extra dollars to go hub to hub axle, just specify which pattern you need. If it were me, on a project like this, I would very likely spring for new tires and rims as well, to get my favorite size with lots of extra capacity. At that point, the trailer can be put out of mind. It'll be ready to go for a long time. -Al