Evinrude 115 SPL questions

[Andrew Leigh]

Hi all this is my first post.<br /><br />I recently purchased a locally produced 17 foot hull with a 1998 Rude 115 SPL powering it. The appearance of the motor would indicate that it has seen little use, unfortunately it did not come with an hour meter. The control gear is OMC. I am totally green to boating but am normally quick on the uptake.<br /> <br />A couple of questions before I get my manual and to check on the dealer knowledge.<br /><br />When depressing the ignition key whilst turning start what happens? I have had numerous versions that range from, it opens the choke butterflies on the carb via a solenoid which apparantly has an audable click (that I can't hear)to numerous depressions inject fuel into the carb barrels to aid starting???? Could someone give me the facts.<br /><br />It is a real struggle to start, granted it is winter here in South Africa but the day temperatures reach 20 deg C. The routine I use is as follows; Pump the bulb in the fuel line till hard, depress the key whilst turning, holding the key depressed until I think she's taken. It normally takes a couple of starts to get going, with each successive non successful start it gets harder to start. The fuel mix is 50:1 and the octane rating is 93 our normal fuel. The motor was serviced at the time of purchase, three weeks ago. It also smokes real bad at startup, I am told that this is a common 2 stroke problem. Another observation is that sometimes there is evidence of a slight kickback in the motor when starting, not dissimilar to the type experienced when the ignition timing is out.<br /><br />Max rev's at full throttle are 5000. Is this about right with a 17" prop?<br /><br />With that octane rating would I need cooler plugs? If so any suggestions?<br /><br />When I get her going she is very responsive and goes like a bat out of hell. The real problem is that as it is my first boat I have nothing to compare it to. Starting and rough idling at the lower rev range (up to 2000)are my main problems.<br /><br />Thanks all<br />See ya soon<br />Andrew<br /><br />PS: What does WOT stand for? Wide Open Throttle??

 

[Moving Target]

Re: Evinrude 115 SPL questions

Welcome aboard!<br /><br />Pushing the key in is a primer into the carb throats. I give my 115 a little throttle (in neutral) to start, helps alot. <br /><br />Rough idle a low speeds could be a dirty/gummed up carb problem.<br /><br />5000rpm is ok, I think the range is 5000-5500, but not positve.<br /><br />And yes, it means Wide Open Throttle

 

[KennyKenCan]

Re: Evinrude 115 SPL questions

Andrew,<br /><br />To start cold engine, set the throttle to warm up (just crack throttle open a little), then turn key on and depress key once to activate choke, then crank motor to start.<br /><br />If it doen't start, try again from the begininng.<br /><br />As far as max RPM is concerned, that motor should be at 5500 RPM at WOT (Wide Open Throttle).<br /><br />You should be running 87 octane fuel in that motor, never anything lower, and anything higher, in my opinion, is a waste of money.<br /><br />Smoke at start up is not a worry, once you take it out for a run, the smoke should dimminish a little, once all the storage oil has been burned off.<br /><br />Motor will smoke if you are using premixed fuel and will smoke less if using VRO.<br /><br />Also, how long has engine been stored prior to you purchasing it.<br /><br />If it was stored more than 6 - 8 months, the carbs might be gummed up and need cleaning.<br /><br />Hope this helps.<br /><br />Kenny

 

[Andrew Leigh]

Re: Evinrude 115 SPL questions

Thanks for the help guys, we have a time delay so apologies for the late answer.<br /><br />Moving Target - forgive my ignorance 'a little throttle (in nuetral)'. My throttle consists of a throttle lever, and a lift up lever which I would have thought is the fast idle / choke lever. I assume that is the lever you lift whilst still keeping the throttle in the neutral position?<br /><br />Talking of throttle levers. I find boats strange, my throttle if one assumes it has a physical travel of say 12" from FCT to FOT the throttle only takes in the last 6". Is this correct?<br /><br />KennyKanCan - O.K. I am missing 500rpm need to find those, not to use them but to understand that the engine is running optimally.<br /><br />We get (in Johannesburg) 93 Octane Leaded and Unleaded. We have no choice. Does this mean a sparkplug change? What are you guy's using as a matter of interest?<br /><br />I am premixing my fuel. It's a bit of a ***** as the tanks one buys are US made and subsequently in US measurement which equates to 22,7 litres. We buy oil in litres or half litres, this means in reality that rather than being at 50:1 I am actually at 45:1 which won't exactly help the smoking problem.<br /><br />What is VRO?<br /><br />Carb's were cleaned as pert of the service.<br /><br />Finally, I started the engine last weekend using the muffs. There are the two about 1/2" holes that the cooling water comes out as well as the smaller one underneath the engine. These all spray water when the motor is in the water but not with the muffs. I switched off immediately thinking that the cooling circut was not working with the muffs. Is this normal? <br /><br />Thanks for the responses.<br /><br />Cheers<br />Andrew

 

[Paul Witt]

Re: Evinrude 115 SPL questions

Good to hear from you. I have the same motor and year as you. VRO is the oil injection. Mine is still operating, some people disable it and pre mix the oil just as a precaution. I haven't had any problems with the pump, I just changed it this year to ease my mind. <br />Mine also starts hard in the winter. Give the key a few taps, so there is a little extra fuel, and bump up the throttle to high idle. There should be a button there to disengage the transmission. <br />As far as running it on the muffs. I just ran mine on the muffs for the first time this summer, and there is quite a few areas that water did come out of. Look at your pee hole, if you have water coming out of there, you should be ok. <br />I have a little bit of oil that runs down the aft side of the lower unit, after a day on the water. I'm not sure if this is normal, but I would be interested if you have the same problem. Keep in touch, and happy boating

 

[Andrew Leigh]

Re: Evinrude 115 SPL questions

Me again with more questions.<br /><br />Hatteras Junkie - I have not seen any evidence of oil but then again I have not checked. I will check for you but will only be able to let you know in the third week of July as we will be on vacation until then. <br /><br />With regard to the rev's issue where I should be running at 5500. It may well be normal for my engine to run at 5000 owing to the altitude. VW on their local web site claim that there is a performance deterioration of up to 17% when running a motor at sea level vs. the altitude up here in Johannesburg which by the way is about 5400ft. I found another interesting article which supports my view. See the link. You guys may well know this but I found it enlightening.<br /><br /> Altitude Facts <br /><br />Regarding the fuel octane rating, should I change my spark plugs?<br /><br />Can any one confirm that "excessive travel" I think I have on the throttle lever before the rev's start lifting?<br /><br />Thanks again<br />Andrew<br /><br />PS: I will be on the self same Lake Kariba in the first week of June. We have hired a 57' Houseboat and apart from the two fishing dories they provide I will be towing my boat up there to drag behind the houseboat for a little fun in the sun. <br /><br />If it interests you have a look at the pic.<br /><br /> Abangane Houseboat

 

[Andrew Leigh]

Re: Evinrude 115 SPL questions

Hi<br /><br />another question, this one on ignition timing. All four stroke motors that I am familiar with have spec's rated at sea level, this includes the timing. It is normal on a automobile engine to alter the ignition timing by up to three degrees as a result of a large altitide increase. Failure to do so results in "pinging". Does this philosophy also apply to two stroke engines.<br /><br />Regards<br />Andrew

 

[FLATHEAD]

Re: Evinrude 115 SPL questions

Hello Andrew. I have OMC throttle lever on my boat and it too has some travel till it starts to bring up the rpms. It has never really bothered me and works fine.

 

[Walker]

Re: Evinrude 115 SPL questions

Andrew, do this check. You might even find your missing 500 RPMs. With engine not running Remove the sound box (carburator cover)and push your throttle lever all the way forward. Look inside the carbs. The butterfly valves should be exactly horizontal. If they aren't then you have a link/sink problem or stretched throttle cable. I suspect the later since you said you have a lot of throttle handle travel until the motor accelerates. Sometimes you can correct a stretched cable with adjustments, if its stretched too much you need to replace it.

 

[Andrew Leigh]

Re: Evinrude 115 SPL questions

Thanks guys,<br /><br />Flahthead - subsequent to my question I did some scratching around and did notice with the engine cover off that the cam arrangement on the throttle (engine side) would automatically lead to much "play"<br /><br />Walker - great point, I had considered checking that exact thing as I have had loss of rev's in my son's car due to the same problem....but it slipped my mind.<br /><br />Once again this afternoon I attempted to start the motor. Took all the advice you guys gave. It must have taken in the order of 5min to start. Once it has idled for a while it's a piece of cake to restart but not first time up. I can only think that it is not priming the carb when pushing the key.<br /><br />How exactly does it prime. Is it like a simple solenoid activated diaphram pump that squirts a quantity of fuel into the carb for each depression of the key? If so is this visible with the carb covers off?<br /><br />Have not yet opened the carbs. Are they similar to car carbs having the main butterflies along with choke butterflies? <br /><br />Once warm it has a very rough idle even when the fast idle lever is maxed. I would have expected it to be smoother.<br /><br />Thanks and Regards<br />Andrew <br /><br />PS: Is it possible to overdo the bulb pumping thing and thereby flood the motor???

 

[Walker]

Re: Evinrude 115 SPL questions

Your carbs do not have choke butterflies. The choke soleniod works by allowing fuel to go directly into the carb throat behind the butterflies. If your primer bulb is squeezed up tight then when you first hit the choke switch a skirt of fuel will enter the carb. After that initial squirt you can hit the choke switch for ever and no more fuel will enter. If you hold the choke switch while cranking the engine the fuel pump will pump fuel thru the soleniod and into the choke system.

 

[Andrew Leigh]

Re: Evinrude 115 SPL questions

Thanks Walker,<br /><br />forgive the ignorance but I hate operating something I don't fully understand (still waiting for the manual). It's starting to get much clearer now.<br /><br />So by holding in the choke switch whilst attempting to start the engine can cause an excess of fuel and flooding? Hence my increasing difficulty to get it started with each attempt.<br /><br />Could the sequence be to hold in the choke switch and crank the engine until it just is about to take, then to keep the engine cranking but not depressing the choke switch?<br /><br />Do two strokes by nature flood easily?<br /><br />Thanks again<br />Andrew

 

[Walker]

Re: Evinrude 115 SPL questions

You'll just have to learn what you motor wants. On my 1994 120 Johnson I have to choke it till it fires the first time. Then It will fire without the choke. I'm at sea level when I start mine.

 

[Andrew Leigh]

Re: Evinrude 115 SPL questions

Thanks a lot Walker, appreciate the help.

 

[Andrew Leigh]

Re: Evinrude 115 SPL questions

Hi all,<br /><br />I hang my head in embarressment. Took my boat into the shop this a.m. and the technician started it first time.....FIRST TIME.<br /><br />The button that one depresses when priming the motor......well it would appear as if I was only depressing halfway. It is easy for the first 1/4" and then get hard to depress for the rest of the way. I stopped after the first 1/4".<br /><br />Blush, red in face, blush again. <br /><br />Anyways thanks for all the help.<br /><br />Cheers<br />Andrew

 

[Spidybot]

Re: Evinrude 115 SPL questions

Jus to add in:<br /><br />Your motor does not flood easily. It takes more than a little priming.. it can sink a lot.<br /><br />The one-lever remote has neutral pouting up, engages gear (forward or reverse according to the lever direction) and the, after securely moving the gears) adds throttle. It is normal that there is a certain free play between engaging gears and the throttle.<br /><br />On some remote boxes there is a button on the lever to disengage the gear cable. This allows for throttle without engaging the gear and is normally seen on remotes without the separate 'fast idle' lever (which by the way raises idle only - no choke).<br /><br />My 115 starts after bumping the bulb hard and squeezing it 3 extra times, then moving the lever forward to what I know is 'high idle', pressing the key and keeping it in while crancking the motor. After starting I let off the throttle to normal idle and it runs at a steady 800-1000 rpm.

 

[Andrew Leigh]

Re: Evinrude 115 SPL questions

Hi all,<br /><br />back from vacation.<br /><br />Found my missing 500Rpm when at greatly reduced altitude. Starting problem sorted out.<br /><br />Wish I had taken a 19" prop, would have flown around the Lake. The 17" was on the border of cavitating with the incresed power at lower altitudes.<br /><br />Thanks<br />Andrew