Evinrude 140 needs lots of TLC

proaudioguy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
171
I know some of you won't want to read the boring parts so you cna just skip ahead to my precise questions below.

Here's the boring back story.....
My dad had this boat (an 88 Stratos 200DC) running like a top. It had been mostly stored for the last few years he owned it so little over 3 years ago he brought it over here and gave it to me. My mom said it needed an impeller because it had been sitting for a while, and since I knew absolutely nothing about 2 cycle outboards, I left it alone until I had time to work on it. While it sat, the brand new seats on the boat got moldy, the spare tire rotted and the wheel rusted, etc etc. We have been cleaning it up and getting it ship shape for a few months. The boat had no cover. I have also learned this was not the original engine. My dad bought the boat from an employee of a marina or boat dealership. They couldn't get the original engine to run right, said they had this one with a recently rebuilt power-head, and swapped it out. They moved all the cable to the starboard side (in the way of the dive platform). The wiring is a real mess. I intend to replace every piece of copper in the boat, including all gauges, but that will wait. There are even unterminated wires in the engine. Still the boat ran fine when he dropped it off. He's owned a lot of boats so I take his word for it. I changed the impeller and the old one was perfect so I guess we could have had it on the water the day after it came to live here. We got a good start on everything and took the boat to the Keys for vacation. I figured I'd be better off putting the money into the boat rather than renting one down there for 3 or 4 days.

So far we have cleaned the fuel tank. It had been used with premix with the old engine. I learned only recently my dad had run external tanks with the current engine. The tank had lots of gas in it. I thought I got it all out before the trip but turns out I didn't come close. I topped off the tank in Miami and put in the Enzyme stuff in there. I used a new fuel filter at well. I couldn't get the boat on plane no matter what I did. Finally on a whim, I pushed in the choke deal (the start/ run KEY) and the boat took off. This leads me to believe the carbs are messed up, probably from varnish. I picked up some seafoam and loaded them up as directed. Lots of smoke. Took the boat out and it tried to go a few times without the choke in. It eventually got to the point it didn't want to go anymore and also sucked the primer bulb flat. Turns out the screen on the gas tank pick up was loaded with crud. I cleaned it up best I could and it would go again, still not all out, but definitely better. I spent the last several days removing, cleaning and replacing the fuel tank. I replaced the fuel lines (still on the old filter). I cleaned the pickup tube and screen really well, looks almost new. I filled up the fuel filter with Seafoam and ran it, let it sit over night, and filled it up again, took the boat to the ramp and put 89 Octane Ethanol free gas in there. I put almost a can of seafoam in there, about half a gallon of Xylene, left over from cleaning the gas tank, and about 35 gallons of gas in there. When I started it up, it took a few tries to get it going, then the smoke show for about 5 minutes. I took it out on the lake and it just wouldn't go. It sounds like it's running OK but full throttle just won't give enough RPM under load to get on plane. I tried using the choke and that helped a little. It also had a second of really increased RPM a couple times so I can only assume there is still a lot of crap in the carbs and I need to pull them. I am afraid I am going to have a hard time getting the carbs back together and installed with the same settings they have now after tearing them down so any tips or hints are greatly appreciated. The water runs from the peep and the boat isn't using a lot of oil as far as I can tell. If I left anything out, please let me know. Glad to answer any more questions.


HERE IS WHERE THE QUESTIONS START.......

The engine is labeled on the mount at the aft of the transom Model E140GXE8R Serial # G 02548659 but it was a little hard to read due to wear and tear. I couldn't find any other labels.
I have the decoder sheet printed up and cannot decode the year and model. The E140 part is obvious, after that, I am unclear. I know it's an Evinrude 140 V4 with a VRO based on the various logos but other than that I do not know.

The engine has 4 single barrel carbs. What do I need to do to clean them up? I need part numbers and explicit instructions. I have 2 manuals. One is Clymer, the other is Seloc. They read like stereo instructions, but one is definitely better than the other. The link on this site http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=309188 to changing the impeller with all the photos blows away BOTH books and I wish I had seen it before doing the job.

I'd also like to replace the entire throttle assembly and all the wiring harnesses. I need part numbers for all that. The searches for complete wiring harness for Evinrude 140 have not provided the numbers I need. I suppose I could re-wire everything rather than use a harness, but I'm a firm believer that if the cost is just a little more for the correct part, I'll be better off in the long run going that route, and my time is money so I don't want to spend too much of it reinventing the wheel. The wiring is actually the only thing I could do from scratch given a proper schematic and it's also one of the easiest things to handle with an appropriate harness.

I also need recommendations on what gauges I should buy. I intend to replace all of them and the dash panel they are mounted in. The cutting is easy for me, just tedious. I'd like to purchase all the gauges BEFORE starting the gauge project so I can lay them all out.

I also need a GPS and depth finder. I have read some things about dual frequency. It's very important to me to have accurate depth info BEFORE I hit the bottom. I intend to be moving fast in 3-5ft of water at times, and the depths can change dramatically over a short distance with no apparent warning. I want the GPS to be able to chart a course that is appropriate, not just a straight line. I'd like to be able to avoid minimum depths when charting the course. I don't mind 1 unit that shares both duties, although my dad says 2 sep units would be best. The budget for these is far less than it would be on a brand new $40k boat. I am familiar with Garmin's Blue Chart G2 and nearly bought it for my Nuvi, but the screen is not viewable in direct sunlight, making it useless in the boat. A nice bright screen in the sun is one of the most important features after accuracy!

I prefer not to have to deal with any dealers etc face to face, but I would like to know who is good with these engines around here. I'm in Deltona, FL which is near Sanford and Daytona. I'm pretty certain when I get these carbs back together, I'm going to need help getting them tuned and tweaked. I really wish I didn't have 4 sep carbs. If this were a Holley 750, I'd be able to handle it myself with a little work.

Sorry for the book. Thanks for all the help! I've learned a lot so far, particularly from the Gators fan (go noles JK). Many of the words I used in this post I didn't even know a few weeks ago. I still can't quite get that Starboard/ Port thing right. I can't comprehend why they don't just say Left and Right!!!
 

kenmyfam

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 10, 2006
Messages
14,392
Re: Evinrude 140 needs lots of TLC

Study the "Top Secret Files" at the top of page 1 of this section. You will find a wealth of information there. Post anything you do not understand or that you can not find. You will get all the assistance you need.
Good Luck.
 

proaudioguy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
171
Re: Evinrude 140 needs lots of TLC

Study the "Top Secret Files" at the top of page 1 of this section. You will find a wealth of information there. Post anything you do not understand or that you can not find. You will get all the assistance you need.
Good Luck.

Thanks, I've read almost every thread linked in that sticky. What I need are specific part numbers. Since I can't decode the engine, I don't know what to search for specifically.

E-140-G--X---E8---R

v-HP---s--2---h
i-------p--5---u
n------e---"---h
r-------c---L---?
u-------i---e
d------a---n
e------ l---g
------------t
--------s---h
--------t
--------y
--------l
--------i
--------n
--------g

I can't figure out the year.

Perhaps the 8 is an S. I'm going to have another look. That would make it a 1990, right?

Upon further inspection the 8 could definitely be an S and the G could be a C. I guess that makes it a 1990. I have no idea what Counter Rotation means if indeed the G is a C. The engine casing is white. Perhaps that is the Special Styling. My dad says it's supposed to be blue.
 

kenmyfam

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 10, 2006
Messages
14,392
Re: Evinrude 140 needs lots of TLC

Reads,
Evinrude
140hp
Special styling
25 inch shaft
E8 does not make sense. Could the 8 be a 0 and that would make it a 1990
C would signify counter rotating.
 

proaudioguy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
171
Re: Evinrude 140 needs lots of TLC

Study the "Top Secret Files" at the top of page 1 of this section. You will find a wealth of information there. Post anything you do not understand or that you can not find. You will get all the assistance you need.
Good Luck.

Reads,
Evinrude
140hp
Special styling
25 inch shaft
E8 does not make sense. Could the 8 be a 0 and that would make it a 1990
C would signify counter rotating.

Thanks, I think it is a 1990. Now to search for a complete wiring harness gear shifter thingy, and 4 carb kits, or is there a single kit to do all 4 carbs?

I read there is a plastic pin I should not use, but rather a brass pin. If the original carbs have been rebuilt already, which is likely, should I be trying to make a new brass pin with my lathe? Where do I find the specs on that? Measured drawings would be great.
 

proaudioguy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
171

proaudioguy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
171
Re: Evinrude 140 needs lots of TLC

I ordered the carb kits. I couldn't find them on this site so I got them from a google search. I also ordered the missing Part number 0432639 Roller Cam Follower (#30 in the parts breakdown). I had noticed the absence of that part (it was mostly missing) caused a really bad idle, but sliding the left over piece in contact with the parts it is supposed to act as a shim between helped a lot. I used some ZIP ties as a spacer to replace the part temporarily. I can't believe they want $7. for what is basically a sacrificial piece of plastic tubing less than an inch long.

Is there anything else I need to rebuild the 4 carbs besides the carb kits, and some solvent and carb cleaner? I do not have a torque tool that works in inch pounds, so I'm open to suggestions as to what to buy for that.
 

whalerfreak22

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jul 16, 2008
Messages
76
Re: Evinrude 140 needs lots of TLC

Yes buy carb cleaner the carb bolts don't need to be torqued that I know of.
 

proaudioguy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
171
Re: Evinrude 140 needs lots of TLC

Yes buy carb cleaner the carb bolts don't need to be torqued that I know of.

The manual has 32inch pounds for some parts, 20 inch pounds, and 6 ft pounds for some other parts. That's all I have to go on. I've torn down some old holley 2 barrels in my teens but that was a long time ago. I just want to get this right. I am most concerned about getting them all working again after the rebuild. I can't imagine what it takes to make 4 single barrels all work together as if they were 1 unit.
 

proaudioguy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
171
Re: Evinrude 140 needs lots of TLC

Carbs are rebuilt and installed. I just cranked the crap out of it since I didn't have a torque wrench. I went easy on the jets. I noticed 1 jet was not what it was supposed to be. I enlarged it a bit closer. I'll order the correct jet and replace it. It's the intermediate jet on one of the barrels. I forgot to check the high speed jets were all the same, but I suspect they were. The idle jets were all the same and correct. I went to the local place to get the gaskets for mounting to the block. THe guy said the 140s were all a pita and needed to be rejetted to get them running right. Looking for YOUR thoughts on that. The high speed jets have been the most problematic for us as far as I can tell. THose are not easy to change. The carbs would have to be removed and partially dismantled to get to them.

The problems we had were all at full throttle but it really wasn't running great even at lower throttle settings. I was expecting the carbs to be really nasty but they were pretty clean. The only place that looked really nasty was the high speed jet on cylinder #4. It was loaded with crunchy nasty varnish. The rest were seemingly fine. That is also the cylinder that when I first started working on the engine had a fouled plug. I plan to pull the plugs which were replaced a few weeks ago and have a look.

I noticed when squeezing the bulb I was able to get the bowls filled to a point then it got hard. This makes sense. THen I squeezed some more and it sounded like more gas was entering one of the carbs and it gurgled quite a bit. I was trying to see if it would start pouring gas out so I kept squeezing it but it never did. Any ideas?

Once I remembered to turn the RED valve back to the UP position, it started right up. It's idling higher now that I replaced part of the linkage that was damaged. At first it didn't want to rev up, but after a shutting it down and back on, it revved fine. I didn't want to push my luck since I don't have a tank. I'm hoping since I didn't change anything but the floats and carb seat and pin, and just cleaned everything that I won't have to go through hell trying to get things synced.

Question. Does each carb feed it's own cylinder? If so, that means the crank case is sealed between journals? If one of the carbs failed there would be no oil in that cylinder?

If that's the case, sounds like the cause of a lot of engine failures that would probably blame the VRO.
 

tx1961whaler

Vice Admiral
Joined
May 31, 2008
Messages
5,197
Re: Evinrude 140 needs lots of TLC

"Question. Does each carb feed it's own cylinder? If so, that means the crank case is sealed between journals? If one of the carbs failed there would be no oil in that cylinder?

If that's the case, sounds like the cause of a lot of engine failures that would probably blame the VRO."

Yes each cylinder has it own. And yes, if one leans out, the boat still runs OK until the lean cylinder craters. And yes, the VRO does get blamed for a lot of problems caused by clogged carbs.
 

kenmyfam

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 10, 2006
Messages
14,392
Re: Evinrude 140 needs lots of TLC

4 carb's, 4 cylinders = 1 carb per cylinder.
 

proaudioguy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
171
Re: Evinrude 140 needs lots of TLC

"Question. Does each carb feed it's own cylinder? If so, that means the crank case is sealed between journals? If one of the carbs failed there would be no oil in that cylinder?

If that's the case, sounds like the cause of a lot of engine failures that would probably blame the VRO."

Yes each cylinder has it own. And yes, if one leans out, the boat still runs OK until the lean cylinder craters. And yes, the VRO does get blamed for a lot of problems caused by clogged carbs.

OK good to know. For the life of me I can't imagine why they don't have all the carbs feed the same plenum and let each cylinder draw from that plenum. In that case 1 big 4 barrel would probably do the trick (making things less complicated). It would have to be rather large to have the CFMs these 4 singles have. I realize there has to be a reason, and it's a moot point now since EFI has become the standard, but I still would like to understand the WHY.
 

proaudioguy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
171
Re: Evinrude 140 needs lots of TLC

Took it out on the lake during a break in the rain today. Idled better than in the past but still was a bit rough. Intermediate was a little rough as well. I kind of expected that due to the 54 jet having a 46 jet in it's place on 1 barrel, and my taking a jewelers screw driver to enlarge it a bit. WOT was very SMOOTH but not as quick as it should be. This is the best it has ever run since I've owned it. I took it out and back in to the marina, picked up the family, then started back up and took it back out. This time it was a little better. The RPMs just aren't quite as high as they should be. I still don't have a working tach so I can't say where it's at. As I was going after a few minutes it's changed pitch a bit as if it got some nasty stuff in there. I'm going to replace all the lines in the engine compartment.

For those of you that have worked on these engines, please tell me what jets you used to get them right. Did you go with the factory specs or change them out? The guy at the local Evinrude dealership told me the 140s were finicky and needed the jets swapped out to get right. I can't afford to pay an hourly rate to have someone fix this thing but if anyone knows a good 2 cycle mechanic in the north east central FL area, by all means let me know. My dad was a car mech in the 70s so I'm a bit partial to mechanics that KNOW what they are doing rather than just change parts until the thing works. I can do that myself if I want to just throw random money at it.

I played with the prop wizard I saw mentioned in another thread and it said I needed a 13.25 x 17-19. Based on the weight and the overall useage, seems like the 19 would be the way to go. I checked and we have a 15x17 installed. It seems like it's in perfectly good condition. If anyone has what I need and wants to trade, please let me know. I don't know enough about props to tell you much but I can take lots and lots of pictures.
 

proaudioguy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
171
Re: Evinrude 140 needs lots of TLC

Took her out on the ICW yesterday. Had a blast. I changed the fuel filter right before we put it in the water. She really had a tough time getting going. The bulb stayed hard for the most part. Once the air was out of the lines she ran rough. Both idle and medium speeds are having issues, rough running, surging, maybe even missing. When we opened it up she got up and went, and sounded pretty normal. The engine likes to GO. It does NOT like to idle or even cruise. NEED HELP! Asked the dealer nearby what the hourly rate was. $85. per hour is not something I can afford. There's no telling how many hours it will take to get this tweaked into performing. I don't mind spending the time on it, but I need some suggestions please. Do I think it's a fair rate? YES, I just can't afford it. I would need to basically put the boat away and wait.
 

proaudioguy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
171
Re: Evinrude 140 needs lots of TLC

There is also a red valve that is part of the primer system (in place of a choke it has an electric primer). When the red lever valve is UP, the fuel can be injected directly into the cylinders by pumping the bulb by hand. The engine will not run though because the fuel is cut off apparently, from the carbs. When the red lever is DOWN the engine will run. I can?t figure out whether this lever is supposed to be all the way down or at some other position. There seems to be some mixed information out there. Someone said put it back wherever it was, which indicated maybe it was not DOWN, but somewhere in between. Someone else said it should be pointed horizontal. Are you familiar with these primer bypass valves in the OMCs of that era? Which way should it point?
 

ezeke

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 19, 2003
Messages
12,532
Re: Evinrude 140 needs lots of TLC

Reads,
Evinrude
140hp
Special styling
25 inch shaft
E8 does not make sense. Could the 8 be a 0 and that would make it a 1990
C would signify counter rotating.

The 8 would be an S.
 

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ezeke

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 19, 2003
Messages
12,532
Re: Evinrude 140 needs lots of TLC

Took it out on the lake during a break in the rain today. Idled better than in the past but still was a bit rough. Intermediate was a little rough as well. I kind of expected that due to the 54 jet having a 46 jet in it's place on 1 barrel, and my taking a jewelers screw driver to enlarge it a bit. WOT was very SMOOTH but not as quick as it should be. This is the best it has ever run since I've owned it. I took it out and back in to the marina, picked up the family, then started back up and took it back out. This time it was a little better. The RPMs just aren't quite as high as they should be. I still don't have a working tach so I can't say where it's at. As I was going after a few minutes it's changed pitch a bit as if it got some nasty stuff in there. I'm going to replace all the lines in the engine compartment.

For those of you that have worked on these engines, please tell me what jets you used to get them right. Did you go with the factory specs or change them out? The guy at the local Evinrude dealership told me the 140s were finicky and needed the jets swapped out to get right. I can't afford to pay an hourly rate to have someone fix this thing but if anyone knows a good 2 cycle mechanic in the north east central FL area, by all means let me know. My dad was a car mech in the 70s so I'm a bit partial to mechanics that KNOW what they are doing rather than just change parts until the thing works. I can do that myself if I want to just throw random money at it.

I played with the prop wizard I saw mentioned in another thread and it said I needed a 13.25 x 17-19. Based on the weight and the overall useage, seems like the 19 would be the way to go. I checked and we have a 15x17 installed. It seems like it's in perfectly good condition. If anyone has what I need and wants to trade, please let me know. I don't know enough about props to tell you much but I can take lots and lots of pictures.

The gearcase you have is a large one with a gear ratio of 2.25 because you have a X model or extra long.

The models with a small gearcase have a gear ratio of 2.0.. The small gearcase uses a smaller diameter propeller such as 13-1/4.

Your gearcase can accomodate up to a 15-1/2" diameter propeller. You need to prop your motor in such a way as to allow you to reach 5800 RPM maximum at WOT with your average load to keep from lugging the engine.
 

ezeke

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 19, 2003
Messages
12,532
Re: Evinrude 140 needs lots of TLC

There is also a red valve that is part of the primer system (in place of a choke it has an electric primer). When the red lever valve is UP, the fuel can be injected directly into the cylinders by pumping the bulb by hand. The engine will not run though because the fuel is cut off apparently, from the carbs. When the red lever is DOWN the engine will run. I can?t figure out whether this lever is supposed to be all the way down or at some other position. There seems to be some mixed information out there. Someone said put it back wherever it was, which indicated maybe it was not DOWN, but somewhere in between. Someone else said it should be pointed horizontal. Are you familiar with these primer bypass valves in the OMCs of that era? Which way should it point?

The red handle on the primer solenoid should always be in the run position which is aligned with and adjacent to the cylindrical base of the solenoid. It is activated by pushing in on the ignition key when the key is in the run position or in the start position.

The handle is there to allow for the use of the schrader valve when injecting fluids such as fogging oil or BRP Engine Tuner. It may also be used in emergencies when you have a dead battery and have to rope start the engine.
 

proaudioguy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 12, 2010
Messages
171
Re: Evinrude 140 needs lots of TLC

Hey guys, quick qeustion. I want to replace the controls and the wiring harness. The boat has old controls and they are falling apart. Will these parts work?

OMC 0176711 and 5006180

One is a control box, the other is supposedly an adapter from the control box to ANY Evinrude engine from 73-95. I have a 1990 engine. I have a new engine harness with the red plug.

I also saw some some ads for some sort of tach with system check. I have no idea what all that is, but I remembered reading a post somewhere where that was mentioned. If you guys can help guide me in the direction I need to go, I'd really appreciate it. Engine model is in my signature.

Also where is a good place to sell GPS Chartplotter maps SD/MMC cards?
 
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