Re: Evinrude 140 needs lots of TLC
Oh I've been running the hell out of this boat since last August. The carb kits did the trick there, but the gas was still full of crud. Didn't have it running really well until mid September when I added the pre filters. The fuel dirt issue has been alleviated by removing the pick up screen and placing an old school inline filter BEFORE the water separating filter (actually 2 in parallel). That little pre-filter is doing a great job of collecting the particles that occasionally get sucked up and we haven't had the engine starve for fuel since. I suppose I could just let the big filter do it but then I'd be changing that a lot more often and they are EXPENSIVE.
I currently am in the process of converting to system check, installing the new gauges and installing the new controls. I have a piece of starboard and 2 of the 4 or 5 gauges I will end up with.
I wasn't going to get a water temp gauge, but if that is good to have, I will pull the trigger. Since the gauges are NOS, I would like to get advice on how to install them, particularly the water temp. Is there a sensor for that or does it use the sensors that are currently on each head?
The tach has system check, I have that wiring worked out.
The Volt gauge wiring is pretty self explanatory. (I have 3 batteries and was considering getting 3 gauges or 1 gauge with a 3 way selector switch. The gauges are in my shopping cart, just need to pull the trigger) Thoughts?
Fuel gauge is easy.
Trim gauge is another questionable one. I like the idea of being able to get repeatable results. My dad says I don't need it.
Hour meter is probably pretty useless at this point. I'd like to eventually re-power with an ETEC 225HO in which case an analog hour meter may be obsolete anyway.
I also have the new oil pick up tube and sensor for system check.
It would help immensely if someone could tell me the pin out for this harness. Even a scribble would be great.
http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc281/originalseahorse/WirningHarnessMWS.jpg
I'll admit I have spent only a little less money over all, but the work I've done is top notch and I have learned a ton about outboards and boats in general. I am not the least bit intimidated about working on this engine now. When I started this last July, the boat had sat for 3 years waiting for me to change the impeller (as I was told by my mom to do before using it) because I had no clue how to work on a boat engine. I was comfortable with small block V8s pre-computer engine management and complex emission controls. I didn't even comprehend how a 2 stroke worked. Now I feel comfortable rebuilding one.
Once I have all this wiring done, I'll start fixing the trailer issues. Once that's done, I am going to get the cosmetic issues dealt with. My wife just wants a new boat, but this is a great boat and I'd rather put $10k into it than spend $10k on someone else' problems which I'll still have to fix. Did I mention I got the boat for free? When all is said and done and I am financially able, I'll end up with a 23 or 24ft CC and simply give this one to my son. I just don't know if the oldest will get it or the youngest will get it. One of them may already have a nicer boat by the time I'm done with it!
Now I have a cable I don't need due to purchasing the wrong adapter.
http://www.tigeraudioinc.com/systemcheck/omc0176383.html
Part of my cosmetic plan is to have a set back bracket with dive platform installed, have all the old holes filled where different previous owners have drilled, have the bottom paint removed, and have the entire thing gel coated. I may have the bumper replaced at that time just to make it all look new (wife will like that). I'd also like to close in the transom, but have a water tight door back there. I also want a custom back seat that swings clear of the transom. I have considered several complicated designs, but am open to ideas. This is to allow easy access to the dive platform, but it will also help my dad get in and out of the boat. He's got serious mobility issues these days. My current wiring project includes enough length for the set back bracket. I plan to later add a kicker motor and I'm welcome to suggestions there. This would be for long distance no wake zones which we have a lot around here, exploring the back country areas where the big engine tends to hit the bottom, and for security when in open sea. We'd really like to go to the Bahamas during a calm weekend but I would be leery of making that short trip without an AUX engine and an enclosed transom.
Thanks for reading my book. I'm hoping someone will benefit from the thread. Had I read all this when I started I would have done things differently.