Evinrude 150 60 Degree 1998

[Riley C]

Hey Iboaters!

Okay so got my new boat. It’s a Haines Hunter Bow Rider. Awesome for the family but also has a deep V hull for out in the bay. Hull been repainted and new transom with keel repair.

It’s got a 150 60degree V6 1998 model. Approx 720 hours.

Looper looks like in great condition. It runs fine but want to give a good service on it as I have no history.

What would you blokes recommend with these hours and 20 years of one of best brands out there? Give me a good breakdown haha. I want to keep the VRO on this one.

I have ordered carb kits, fuel filter, gear oil and impeller kit. Some spray paint and clear coat for the PTT and leg. That is it though.

Biggest thing is it’s been stored for ages and I had to drain all the fuel out and flush out with metho.

Does the starter need a service, VRO oil filter, thermostats and PTT reservoir?

Any advice would be a big help.

Here's a video of it cranking after two years stored. The guy had no idea about outboards. I had to drain the bowls and everything when I rocked up to view it.

https://www.dropbox.com/home/150 Looper?preview=IMG_2008.MOV

 

[Chris1956]

That model will have plastic carbs. Inspect the bowls for cracks. Replace them if you find any.

I would recommend new spark plugs and synthetic gear oil. Check the oil reservoir for dirt or water on the bottom. Just siphon the bottom of the tank into a clear container to see.

If she doesn't have a System Check Tachometer, I would recommend it. Also, test the 4 alarms for Low Oil, No Oil, Overheat and System Check. System Check is a fuel restriction.

Remove and grease prop. Decide if you want to keep the Whale Tail. Grease the steering rod and pivot and tilt fittings. Make sure the voltage regulator is charging, when she runs at fast idle.

 

[Riley C]

That model will have plastic carbs. Inspect the bowls for cracks. Replace them if you find any.

I would recommend new spark plugs and synthetic gear oil. Check the oil reservoir for dirt or water on the bottom. Just siphon the bottom of the tank into a clear container to see.

If she doesn't have a System Check Tachometer, I would recommend it. Also, test the 4 alarms for Low Oil, No Oil, Overheat and System Check. System Check is a fuel restriction.

Remove and grease prop. Decide if you want to keep the Whale Tail. Grease the steering rod and pivot and tilt fittings. Make sure the voltage regulator is charging, when she runs at fast idle.

Wow thanks Chris!

The tacho has three warning lights on it, I assume this is what you mean. Does this mean it doesn’t require test of four alarms? If not is there a process for this?

I have ordered some carb parts mainly gaskets. So will totally clean them down and check for cracks.

Is the voltage REG test check the same as the older loopers?

i have bought some BRP engine tuner to give it a full clean out.

Will change gear oil and impeller kit also.

Thanks, a fair bit to sink my teeth into.

Riley

 

[Chris1956]

If it is a 1998, it will have 4 alarms. Older models had 3 alarms.

Voltage regulator should charge at 14VDC at fast idle. You can see it on any voltmeter.

Double check carb kits. I had trouble getting the exact ones.

Impeller needs to lock onto yellow plastic driveshaft Key. A service manual is most helpful.

 

[Riley C]

Thanks Chris, Yeah I have ordered a hard copy one. I had one for the 90degree looper and it was really helpful.

Thanks again.

 

[Riley C]

Hey guys, I found some cracks on the outside of all the bowls but nothing inside them. Weird.

I don't thing they are warped too bad, checked with a straight edge.

One of the floats had some edge worn out. These bowls feel less finished/smooth than the 140 Loopers bowls, maybe inferior, OMC cost cuts?

Also why do the bowls have #1 & #2 inside them? Are they to show difference between Port Stbd? I thought all the jets are the same? All the idle screw are on the assemblies yeah?

Gear box oil had no water and was pretty clear.

 

[Chris1956]

Warped bowls can be seen with the naked eye. A strait edge makes it childs play.

I think the bowls are the same, at least on my '98 Johnny 150HP 60*V6 they are. I don't know if the high speed jets are the same, however, it is easy to transfer them over, one bowl at a time and mark the carbs to install them back into their original places.

Idle mixture adjustment is 5 turns open, However, the side panels on the throttle bodies allow you to spray some gumout into the idle mixture needles and clean 'em w/o removal.

 

[Riley C]

Warped bowls can be seen with the naked eye. A strait edge makes it childs play.

I think the bowls are the same, at least on my '98 Johnny 150HP 60*V6 they are. I don't know if the high speed jets are the same, however, it is easy to transfer them over, one bowl at a time and mark the carbs to install them back into their original places.

Idle mixture adjustment is 5 turns open, However, the side panels on the throttle bodies allow you to spray some gumout into the idle mixture needles and clean 'em w/o removal.

Thanks Chris!

I will unscrew the side panels too then.

So nothing to worry about cracks wise?

 

[Chris1956]

It is a bit of work to take the carbs off and rebuild them. While you have them off, the bowls are easy to replace, so you might consider it. Look around the web for the best price on the bowls.

 

[Riley C]

It is a bit of work to take the carbs off and rebuild them. While you have them off, the bowls are easy to replace, so you might consider it. Look around the web for the best price on the bowls.

Thanks Chris


Yeah it’s a fair amount a work, had to do it ten times in 18months in the 87 140looper I had (fuel lines breaking down).

i have pulled the down and replaced all the gaskets. I have put them back onto the engine and had a float leak in the #3 cylinder. So readjusted the float, appears good now.

However, primer still looses pressure after an hour or two.

I’m now trying isolate lines, as the bowls are not leaking so figure there must be an air leak somewhere. The main inlet filter?? I read the can get air leaks.

or is it okay for primer to go down that quick??

 

[racerone]

The primer ball is a manual pump.--------It is used to fill the carburetors.----That saves the starter motor from having to do that.----Or in a small motor it saves your arm / shoulders from having the pump on the motor fill the carburetors.-----Once motor sits or runs the bulb does NOT need to be hard !

 

[Riley C]

Thanks Race,

I thought so, just not used to the fuel in the line going back into the tank shortly after priming.

I got my manual today for this motor. I have now been able to set the floats properly. Some of the needles had wear lines on them, so I have ordered new ones.

 

[Faztbullet]

Read the manual carefully!!!! The seats do not use the plastic washer and tighten in cross pattern...

 

[Riley C]

Read the manual carefully!!!! The seats do not use the plastic washer and tighten in cross pattern...

Cheers Fazts,

Yeah why do they give the washer? Is it for newer models? Always do flanges up as plumber in cross pattern. Good points, keep em coming!

Going to fire her up for the first time tomorrow after a fair amount of work. Going to be interesting, especially with engine tuner.

Still waiting on the new needles though, only one needle is not holding. I double checked float and seat, the needle is just too worn I think.

 

[Riley C]

Hey guys!

I fired her up today with the engine tuner, plugs, fresh carbs, fuel.

I had to clear out all the old oil from the VRO tank and hose. Engine runs way better with this. I premixed oil as per manual due to the VRO clean out.

One thing i dont know is the where where to drop the revs at idle. It’s revs are way to high at 1200. Or is quick start going to long?

Where do you idle adjust?

 

[Chris1956]

Quickstart will run the motor at about 1000RPM. RPMs fluctuate when Quickstart operates.

When she warms, the two wire temp sensor will signal Quickstart to turn off, dropping idle PM to about 650. It should run smoothly with no fluctuation.

Idle speed is adjusted by idle timing adjustment. Make sure you have no air leaks into manifold.

 

[Riley C]

Quickstart will run the motor at about 1000RPM. RPMs fluctuate when Quickstart operates.

When she warms, the two wire temp sensor will signal Quickstart to turn off, dropping idle PM to about 650. It should run smoothly with no fluctuation.

Idle speed is adjusted by idle timing adjustment. Make sure you have no air leaks into manifold.

Thanks Chris,

i dont know much much about this model. I’m used to the mid 80s looper.

I ran her today with less premix as the vro is draining from oil tank. She ran in a test tank and dropped to 800.

Do these motors vibrate a bit at 2500+ revs? Feel powerful so to speak... when I revs in gear without prop in, prop a no no but I needed to get temps up for thermostats.

I had a leak on two carb seats where the seats were not tightened enough. They were overflowing in the throat.

I replaced the 5/16 hose as I was getting a horn blowing at the start, perhaps fuel restriction?

The current omc water sep filter, is this just as good as one with the clear bowl at the bottom by racor?

I hope to launch in the river tomorrow.

compression test 125psi on port bank, 122 on starboard.

 

[Joe Reeves]

On a separate note............................

Your concerns about damaging the oil primer bulb are unfounded. It may be damaged due to age but pumping it doesn't affect the quality of the bulb itself. Excessive pumping will however load the carburetors up with oil.

I'd suggest replacing the oil primer bulb though due to your explanation of the sludge in the tank.
**********
You ran the engine for 30 minutes... I assume on a flushette and not in the water at full throttle... and the oil tank level dropped 3/4 of a inch? That's one hellava lot of oil. Yeah, I bet your neighbors are blacklisting you! That indicates that the VRO needs rebuilding, replacing, or converting to premix.
**********
Install a Anti Siphon Valve on that built in tank. It's obviously needed.
**********
Keeping in mind that the Fuel Restriction & Overheat warnings are identical... keep your eye on that warning should it reoccur.
**********
(Priming The VRO Pump)
(J. Reeves)

When hooking up or installing a VRO whether it is a new or original VRO pump, it must be primed in order to dispel any air that might be in the oil line.

Have the Oil line attached to the engine fitting BUT detached from the VRO. Add a piece of fuel hose if necessary to the oil line so that it can be aimed into some sort of container.

Pump the oil primer bulb, catching the oil flowing out of the line into the container until you are absolutely sure that you have rid the oil line of every bit of air that might have been trapped there.

Now, connect the oil line to the VRO and secure it. When the oil line is secured, apply pressure to the oil primer bulb ONE TIME only. That's it.
********************

 

[Riley C]

Hi Joe,

Thanks for getting back to me.

Sorry it was at least 30-45min in a big flush tank. I like to run it in the tank to put pressure on the exhaust, its almost like the water. I have measured how much it went down in the tank, 10mm or 3/8 not the 3/4.

I will get a primer bulb, just to make sure. I will also put an anti siphon on the tank.

How long should I add premix to the tank, after replacing the bulb?

Im going to take her on the river today to give it a good run and see what happens.

I really hope the VRO doesn't need rebuilding. Will I know for sure on the water, maybe see smoke on there too??

Thanks again,
Riley

 

[Riley C]

Got her out in the river today. Not one issue.

System check works well. I had no alarms at 5k.

no smoke other than at idle, I put this down to the vro added with 1:100 premix I have in the fuel tank. VRO tank definitely draining too.

It ran for 1 1/2 hours non stop up the river and back.

I could not go Wot as there was some traffic and wind/chop about.

Anxiety has eased since last boat now.

I want to thank you all for the advice to get me where I am after the big service.