evinrude 1980 115 hp shift linkage disconnect.

[down45]

I need to replace the water pump and since I have removed the carbs so I can replace all the fuel recirculating lines I figured this would be a good time except not sure what to loosen as I see no pin just a type of cradle that the rod comes into from the back. Here are a couple of pics.

 

[racerone]

There is a pin that goes horizontally and through the shift rod.-----Look for it as it should be easy to see.----Likely a 3/8" socket or big screwdriver will get it out.

 

[interalian]

It's aft of the clamp at the center of your first picture. With the spaghetti hosing on these, it's tough to see, but it should be easy since you have the carb off.

 

[down45]

Thank guys disconnected it but guess what? Can't loosen two of the four bolts nor can I loosen the trim tab bolt. Broke a ratchet trying to get one off. Now gonna have to borrow a impact drive to get them off.

 

[kofkorn]

Heat the midsection with a propane torch where each of the bolts is threaded into. The bolts are stainless which is actually a pretty soft material. Using an impact will likely either strip the bolt or twist the head off. Then your stuck trying to figure out how to get off your lower with a bolt stuck in place, or removing a stud with no head.

If you really heat the area with a torch, you might get some discolored paint, but you should be able to easily back out the bolt with a ratchet afterward.

I've had a couple of bolt heads twist off too. Easiest solution when that happens is to weld a nut onto the portion of the stud that is still exposed. While the bolt is still cooling, try removing with your ratchet again. Usually the heat of the weld will be enough to get it to break loose.

Good luck!

 

[down45]

Glowing hot ? Then do I wait until it cools before trying to back it out. I really don't want to twist it off what a mess that would be.

 

[kofkorn]

Not glowing hot (propane torch probably couldn't get it that hot anyway). If you see aluminum glowing, you are seconds away from melting it down. You want to heat it for a good long time, 1-2 min, but there isn't a color change or indicator to tell you when to stop. Normally I apply heat for a minute, then try the wrench. It will take some force, but you shouldn't be applying so much force that you're afraid of breaking something. If I can't get it, then I put more heat to it for a longer time and try again. When you get it, the bolt will typically squeak and you'll see a puff of dust come out as the corrosion breaks free.

Don't forget that there are 6 bolts holding your lower on, the four exposed ones in the front, one at the very rear of the gearcase, under the trim tab, and one more tucked up just in front of where the zinc is. The last one is hard to see and frequently forgotten. Unfortunately the location of this last one is in a spot where it's nearly impossible to apply heat. This is one of the ones I've twisted off and then gotten out after dropping the lower.

Good luck!

 

[down45]

Thanks so much. I applied the heat with a propane torch took me a couple of tries but I was able to get all the bolts loose. my question is when I separated the ends I had the shift lever in neutral but after I reconnected the two end it seems to be in gear the propeller is not turning like it is in gear, I probably bumped it while I was trying to get the old impeller off ( what a ***** to get off ) so when I attach the rod end to the shift control cable what gear should I have the lever in ? I guess what I am asking is how to tell what gear it is now in so I can have the lever in the right position ? I have had the boat for 6 years and this is the first time I have changed the water pump. I know they say change in every year or 2 but I didn't and everything was so had to get off. Believe me from now I I will change it every year.

 

[kofkorn]

As long as you didn't spin the shift rod in the lower, it should go right back together and work fine. Many times in the process of re-installing, the shift rod will get bumped into gear. Not a big deal. Just move your throttle control to get the shift lever to line up with the shift rod (I think usually reverse) and re-insert the screw that connects the shift rod and the shift lever. Once the pin is back in and tight, move your throttle back to neutral and then spin the prop. It should move freely without any noise.

Good luck!