cajuncook1
Chief Petty Officer
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2009
- Messages
- 559
Re: Evinrude 2hp Mate runs then dies
Does water come out of the exhaust relief ports ( usually a thick mist )? I know you stated that the water pump was replaced, but is it cooling the head? Did you get a cylinder head temperature with a laser temp meter? If the head gets hot it can cause the issues that you are having. It is better to be sure your not have a cooling issue, because ever time a motor over heats and kills, it is causing damage to your cylinder and pistons. (The overheating causes the rings to expand, score and damage the pistons and cylinders)
I am not saying that over heating the is the definite cause of all your motors problems, but please make sure your motor is not overheating and causing damage.
The coils, if going bad, can cause problems after the motor warms up and then gives out. When it cools, then it starts functioning again for a short period. It is not hard to change the coils, points, and condenser. If the coil is bad, I would say change the points and condenser while your in there(they are cheap enough).
Look at the iboats links I originally supplied, they have links for removing a flywheel, checking the coils, points, condensers, and how to set your points with a feeler gauge.
You will see a lot of experience guys ask about compression, spark and fuel. (They are using a systematic approach to diagnosing an engine problem or problems....in this order)
C= compression ( if your compression is low are uneven between cylinders >10% then others checks don't matter until the that is resolved)
S= Spark (if your have problems with your ignition then you can have the cleanest carb and great fuel delivery but it will run bad or not at all)
F= Fuel (if your carbs are not clean and fast/slow idle needle are not set right then it will run but like crap. If you have it set too lean then you run the risk of poor fuel/oil delivery and damage your pistons and cylinders then you run into the problem of C (poor compression from damage).
So it is advisable to get a manual for your motor. Excellent resource, specifications, and diagrams.
The reason I am jabbering like a monkey on crack, is a lot of times we naturally wanted to get it fix fast, quick and easy, so we neglect doing do diligence on our motors. Also if your new to working on motors, like myself, it can be very intimidating taking things apart and fixing them. That's where the service manual, links, good advice from the experience guys on this forum, and patience pays off. When you learn how to take care and fix your motor it is cheaper in the long run, you keep your motor up and running longer and better.
Hope you get your motor fixed soon and on the water!! (mmm....I smell the fish and shrimp frying already)
cajuncook1
Does water come out of the exhaust relief ports ( usually a thick mist )? I know you stated that the water pump was replaced, but is it cooling the head? Did you get a cylinder head temperature with a laser temp meter? If the head gets hot it can cause the issues that you are having. It is better to be sure your not have a cooling issue, because ever time a motor over heats and kills, it is causing damage to your cylinder and pistons. (The overheating causes the rings to expand, score and damage the pistons and cylinders)
I am not saying that over heating the is the definite cause of all your motors problems, but please make sure your motor is not overheating and causing damage.
The coils, if going bad, can cause problems after the motor warms up and then gives out. When it cools, then it starts functioning again for a short period. It is not hard to change the coils, points, and condenser. If the coil is bad, I would say change the points and condenser while your in there(they are cheap enough).
Look at the iboats links I originally supplied, they have links for removing a flywheel, checking the coils, points, condensers, and how to set your points with a feeler gauge.
You will see a lot of experience guys ask about compression, spark and fuel. (They are using a systematic approach to diagnosing an engine problem or problems....in this order)
C= compression ( if your compression is low are uneven between cylinders >10% then others checks don't matter until the that is resolved)
S= Spark (if your have problems with your ignition then you can have the cleanest carb and great fuel delivery but it will run bad or not at all)
F= Fuel (if your carbs are not clean and fast/slow idle needle are not set right then it will run but like crap. If you have it set too lean then you run the risk of poor fuel/oil delivery and damage your pistons and cylinders then you run into the problem of C (poor compression from damage).
So it is advisable to get a manual for your motor. Excellent resource, specifications, and diagrams.
The reason I am jabbering like a monkey on crack, is a lot of times we naturally wanted to get it fix fast, quick and easy, so we neglect doing do diligence on our motors. Also if your new to working on motors, like myself, it can be very intimidating taking things apart and fixing them. That's where the service manual, links, good advice from the experience guys on this forum, and patience pays off. When you learn how to take care and fix your motor it is cheaper in the long run, you keep your motor up and running longer and better.
Hope you get your motor fixed soon and on the water!! (mmm....I smell the fish and shrimp frying already)
cajuncook1
