Evinrude 6hp Fisherman throttle / fuel question....video

[OptsyEagle]

Needing to continue to choke is a classic sign that it is time to clean the carburetor. Focus on the slow speed jet and any welch plug areas above it, but of course the whole thing should be spray down with carb cleaner and every orifice blown out with compressed air, a few times.

You will probably find that if you try to run it with the choking set up you have that it may seem OK at first. You will start it up, drop it into gear probably at a little higher RPMs then would be recommended and take off from the dock well. At high speeds you may not notice any problem at all, but you will probably find that as you slow it down to navigate into the dock or your trailer the motor will stall. It will probably require a higher RPM, just to keep it running, then what you will want to bring her in and you will find that quite annoying, and of course she will not troll very well and you might even start fouling spark plugs and carboning up the cylinders and piston rings.

I would give that carb a cleaning if I were you.

 

[ondarvr]

It's not hard to clean the carb on those.

 

[Hartley's boat]

No Title

I pulled the needle out to check it.....what do you think about this? It doesn't seem to have any bad wear but what do I know! LOL! If I wanted to replace this and the seat where is the best place to get these kind of parts?

 

[racerone]

?????----------There is nothing wrong with that needle !!!

 

[Hartley's boat]

Well that's good! I won't replace it then Thanx! I would like to know where a person can order parts for these motors. I am sure you can get them online all over the place but if anyone has had a good experience with a particular dealer I'd love the hear about it.

 

[racerone]

?????----Thousands of these motors were built and were the same year after year.--See your local BRP / Evinrude dealer.---Many parts for these motors are easier to get than much newer / limited production motors !!!!

 

[oldboat1]

There are parts...and then there are parts. Replacing a needle is hard(er). Getting a kit with gaskets and a float is easy (probably don't need a kit with a float if the cork one was replaced a year ago -- won't know until you take it apart. Actually, the cork float can be reliably used too, sometimes with a little tweaking for modern fuels.)

Think you need a kit, because you need the little domed fitting at the top (little plug that comes in the kit). You need to take that off, and clean out the opening and passages under there. In enlarging the pic of the needle with my fancy dancy laptop, it looks to me like there MIGHT be damage to the tip (appears to be squared off, which may mean that the tip is broken off). Not necessarily the case, but when you open the carb you may find the little brass tip jammed in the port where it screws up. In that case, you would likely need to find a replacement needle (maybe the guy who worked on it would have one -- used piece). It's probably available new, but don't really need a new one. Anyway, I like to use a piece of fine wet/dry sandpaper and gently polish the tip on a hard surface.

When you have the top opened up, screw the needle in to the point it gently seats so you can see the tip come through (from the top in that spot where the compression fitting was), and get the feel of what the metal on metal contact is. I think some folks might be feeling needle washers compress when they think they are seating the needle, and not actually seating the thing. It can break off (as suggesting may have happened, above), and will get lots of warnings here not to do that. But it does have to be seated up to the shoulder in the carb housing as a starting point.

Racerones' reference to approaches is interesting. I've taken to suggesting people stick new finds in a barrel and try to start it (what people like to do anyway, and catch myself doing that too). It's potentially a mistake, though, as I think HIghTrim often suggests, because an old impeller can disintegrate and muck up the cooling system -- requiring some tedious solutions. I'm comfortable just taking them apart and "refreshing" them without running them, but have done it enough where it's pretty easy -- get to a point where you know almost exactly what you will need and spend, even before you get it wet. Dunno. Guess it's more fun to stick it in a barrel and try it out first, but not sure what is best for somebody who hasn't fixed one before.

 

[Hartley's boat]

It's funny but there are no dealers anywhere near me. I live in Vienna WV not a 1/4 mile from the Ohio river and there are no boat dealers or shops left around here for some reason! Very odd if you ask me. I put that needle back in and seated it and backed it out as per instructions here and I got it to idle pretty decent without the choke so I really think a little carb cleaning is going to go a very long way for me I ordered a kit and it will be here by the end of the week so I may still get in the water before the end of the month!

 

[oldboat1]

interesting. Parkersburg or across the river in Marietta. Seems like there would be something in the way of brick and mortar shops. Don't forget about NAPA.

 

[Hartley's boat]

Never thought about Napa. I know there's one of those close. Thanx! I could be out in left field about the boat shops too.....I just know all of them that I knew of years ago are gone. Need to look for one local for sure.

 

[Hartley's boat]

oldboat1 ... I see what you mean about that needle... it does look kind of squared off on the tip. I will definitely look into that close up and personal when I have it down.

 

[Hartley's boat]

Wow! I have been searching for a needle for that thing and they are not easy to find! I figured there would be a spot that carried all the parts for these things new. Kinda like with old cars...you can buy everything for them these days brand new. Might be repro but still new,.

 

[oldboat1]

try evinrude.com or brp. or marine engine dot com, maybe one here at iBoats. It's about $23 -- good to look at one to get a sense of what it should look like.

 

[OptsyEagle]

I checked iboats first and they don't seem to have the needle (Part number 431633 which superseded 313240) but checking ishopmarine.com they seem to have it for under $20. It's tough to say with that picture if the one you have is OK. If you see some squareness to it with a magnified glass then for $20 you might as well change it out.

 

[oldboat1]

OEM available at marine engine. Even if not buying, helpful to look at it.

 

[AlTn]

late to the conversation, but will add this...as Racer noted, the blunted end on that needle is the same as as the nose on a new one I ordered for a '72 6 hp.. I ordered one thinking the old one had been dropped and the tip had broken..not so.

Hartley..a couple of things from my fooling with a 6 hp...given your compression no.s < good >...when you have the carb and ignition dialed in that motor will idle like a sewing machine at much lower rpm's than you now can attain. When you have the carb apart, idle mixture needle out, core plug on the top rear of the carb out, hold the float bowl upright and the main carb body inverted and note the mating surfaces of each. There's a passage opening in the mating area of the carb body that is not threaded and the float bowl gasket has a hole for this passage way...the other holes in that gasket go to threaded holes to attach the float bowl. That passage is the path the fuel mix takes to a chamber that the core plug covers and the idle mixture screw enters. This is where you idle mixture originates. Clean this passage way as clean as possible. You'll see the external casting for this passage in the carb body as well. This well that the core plug covers has 3 or more small holes that exit into the carb throat right behind the throttle butterfly. Clean those completely too. When you reinstall the core plug the convex side is up and you can set it with a dowel, ratchet extension, anything that's harder and smaller in diameter really, so that the plug expands and seals that opening. A think the manual calls for some gasket sealing compound around the edge of the plug before you seat it, but don't go overboard with it or it'll end up in that well you just cleaned. There's a tab on the float arm that the pivot pin goes through. This tab should point towards the carb body. Set the float so it's parallel with the carb body when inverted. The non hinged end of the float may be slightly higher, that's ok. As I'm sure you've read, make certain the main jet < office plug > is clean and the nozzle gasket < boss gasket > is in place. Any questions, just ask and someone will respond.

Go easy on that starter when you lift it. The starter spring is captured in the base and you can possibly snap that tang or cause it to come out and rewind violently, possibly leaving it unusable. They aren't cheap to replace.

With both plugs out and an air gap spark tester used, you should see 1/4" blue spark each revolution..if you don't...look under the Top Secret Files...scroll down to Universal Magneto Troubleshooting...

 

[racerone]

????------The " working " part of that slow speed needle is NOT the very tip !!!------Not sure why you would want to replace it.------Just pulled the needle out of one of about 6 carburetors that I have and needle looks just like the one in your picture.----Nothing wrong with it !!-------Do some trouble shooting on this motor !

 

[Hartley's boat]

Thanx y'all! I am taking it off and tearing it down today. I will let you all know how it turns out. I have watched videos and read tutorials and I think it should be pretty simple.

 

[oldboat1]

What? Me wrong??

here's a pic of a new one:

Think a middle ground would be to do some clean up on the one you have (like to carefully polish the tip with 600 grit we/dry on a piece of glass or other hard surface -- get some of the wear rings out and clean it up.) As you will have the carb top disassembled , you will be able to look down into the body to see where it seats

 

[Hartley's boat]

I see what you're saying. I will definitely check it out and see what is what in there. I have the service manual and they do state the tip should be a point but like you say.....the tip really doesn't do anything so we will see. I have the kit coming and after taking the carb off I do need the packing to reassemble so I will be a couple days waiting after I get it cleaned up. Here's a little video of the carb off the motor.