Evinrude Charging Problem

n4bme

Recruit
Joined
Mar 8, 2003
Messages
1
Last season when I put the boat up it was not charging the battery. Before we start the new season this needs to get fixed. <br /><br />I have a 90 SPL that is about a 96 or so. The mechanics of testing and fixing are not a problem,<br />Identifying what's broken is. <br /><br />What service type manual seems to be the best, a factory manual or a generic Clymer?<br /><br />Can someone walk me through the charging system on an outboard? What points in the system can I test from? What voltages and resistance values should I have?<br /><br />Any help appreciated
 

alcan

Commander
Joined
Dec 14, 2001
Messages
2,505
Re: Evinrude Charging Problem

Hi mike<br /> Of course an OEM manual is the best. But any knowen after market brand such as Clymers should work just fine. Some folks find these to be confusing because they cover multiple years and models. Quite a few OEM manals do the same thing. They all basicly cover the same thing.
 

12Footer

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 25, 2001
Messages
8,217
Re: Evinrude Charging Problem

Greetings, and welcome to iboats,Mike.<br />The manufaturer's shop manual is allways by far, the best. but you'll pay thru the nose for one.<br />Unless you intend to do a rebuild someday , my advice would be the Clymer or Seloc. I can't narrow it down any further, as I don't have any bombardiers, but the guys will post thier opinions too.<br />Being a Merc/Force guy, I can only generalise it.<br />On the typical outboard, the stator has windings in it, that act as a generator would. Sometimes, the voltages it puts out are in the 100's of volts, and it is AC (alternating current).<br />Batteries require a regulated source of 13.8Volts DC (direct current).<br />So, the output of the stator is first regulated, by knocking down the voltage to something a bit more palletable for your battery.It is then rectified, or converted into DC with a series of diodes called a "Bridge network", or 4 diodes connected in such a way as to not allow the voltage they receive to be passed in both directions (converting it into DC).<br />The rectifier and regulator may be in one plastic box together, or seperately packaged.<br />They can be transposed, depending on the maker and engine.<br />Some older outboards, did not even have a charging circuit, but yours (being a 96) surely does.<br />It's output will be less than 8amps.<br />On these systems, it is vitally important, that you never disconnect the charging circuit on a running engine, as it could destroy the charging circuit, and in some cases, the expensive switchbox.<br />Test with a standard amp gauge,and/or voltmeter.<br />Ammeter should show a charge. A volt/ohm meter should show 12VDC engine off, and climb to 13.8VDC gradually, on a running engine.<br />Some regulators on outboards are terrible!!<br />They will pass as much as 18VDC. This is fine on a dead battery, but can quickly boil a charged battery to an early death. so check the battery after a trickle-charge out of the boat, on the bench..After charge, check the battery after a few days,for any drop in voltage. If it looses juice,replace the battery, as your charging circuit has fried the old one.<br />One trick boaters use to prevent this, is to run a two-battery system, (with a dash-mounted voltmeter) and keep one discharged slightly, and keep alternating the two.Run all electrics and electronics on the off-line battery. This has the addded benifit of keeping some of the RF noise from the chargiing and igniotion systems, from interfering with the electronics' performance.<br />On this type of system, your old fried battery could serve as a charging circuit dump,proteccting the one good battery. Just something to consider for the future, if you find it is needed.
 

12Footer

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 25, 2001
Messages
8,217
Re: Evinrude Charging Problem

A rectifier block can be checked with an ohm meter. It should show continuity in one direction only. <br /><br />(If you have continuity, then switch the test leads and have continuity), replace it.<br />If your voltmeter shows the voltage climing past 18VDC,replace the regulator. Again, sometimes the two devices are one plastic cube on the engine.
 
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