Excess carbon-heavy oil from V-6 200

[j_martin]

Re: Excess carbon-heavy oil from V-6 200

A cracked exhaust divider plate will sometimes spray water into the exhaust port.

 

[philbur]

Re: Excess carbon-heavy oil from V-6 200

Final Post

The problems surrounding the original failure of the "replacement" piston have been corrected...to a point where the motor runs very strong and is "good to go".....

....except for a small little problem.....
I have determined that the source of the trace amounts of water entering the #2 (top port-side) cylinder is probably due to a poor seal around the steel sleeve and the original bore....

The sleeve is slightly "lower" than the top edge of the bore (where it meets the fire ring of the head gasket) and I am seeing a very small (but noticeable) gap at two locations around the diameter of the sleeve. The gaps are not exactly inline with the "rust" on the edge of the wall near the exhaust port, but this may not matter as the point of exit for the vaporized moisture would be around that port anyway.

Soooo...I am at a crossroads...
Do I pull the Poppet Valve and run a second teltale to reduce the water pressure to "safe-but-low" and just check that bore periodically for continuing scoring?

Or do I send the block out for another sleeve-job and pray the block is still good?

Or....do I cut the block a bit to bring the sleeve top flush with the bore it is in and to the head...so the gasket can seal better?.....

I am thinking that I might do the first and the last steps....unless anyone knows a slick way to pull the sleeve?

I have worked on sleeves for car and truck applications...but this is obviously different and I would hate to kill the block. Heating the outside of the bore and cooling the steel sleeve works for installation...but I have not seen a post from anyone who has attempted pulling one....

And yes...save me the posts about "sucking it up" and spending the 500 bucks to get it done right, ok?, please?...times are tight for me...I have ZERO confidence in the two shops that have butchered this motor already, and I have WAY more time than I have money....the thing runs....and it runs "quite well" at anything below about 45mph...but the water intrusion is basically a bomb waiting to go off and I am an ex-EOD guy...so I am compelled to disarm the damn thing instead of just killing it with water. (actually, this is exactly what we do....water jet via a robotic assistant...)

 

[j_martin]

Re: Excess carbon-heavy oil from V-6 200

What would happen if you dabbed a bit of locktite on the leaky spot? It should suck into the crack and seal it permanently. Maybe worth a try.

 

[philbur]

Re: Excess carbon-heavy oil from V-6 200

Good question, J....And I DID consider that.....but I was contemplating JB Weld, or Threebond...or something else.....but what kind of Locktite would you try?

The red threadlocker?....or one of their high temp gasket makers?....

Thanks for your input, by the way....

 

[philbur]

2.4 re-sleeve time...or go to a 2.5?

2.4 re-sleeve time...or go to a 2.5?

OK....so the "final post" was not REALLY an final post....

It needs a re-sleeve....
The sleeve is not sealing in the bore.....it is the only explanation for the water getting into only one cylinder....and after running dye-tracer in the water (on muffs, of course...don't have enough to treat a river) I checked it with a UV light and sure enough it appears that the sleeve is no longer sealing.

Now, the problem is this...the only "reputable" machine shop that has experience doing this kind of work is 4 hours from here...and they are the ones that did the original sleeving a few years ago...


Q-1: Does anyone know a good shop for this in Northern NY?

Q-2: Or....is it as painful as I hear to go to a 2.5?
Q-3: Or....anyone got a 2.4 block? The bores are running stock piston sizes except for the top port one which is a 20-over....

Comments?

 

[j_martin]

Re: Excess carbon-heavy oil from V-6 200

Good question, J....And I DID consider that.....but I was contemplating JB Weld, or Threebond...or something else.....but what kind of Locktite would you try?

The red threadlocker?....or one of their high temp gasket makers?....

Thanks for your input, by the way....

The only thing that might work is a Cyanoacrylate product. The ideal gap filler is green sleeve retainer, but it might be too viscous to get into the gap. There are after-its-tightened threadlocker products with low viscosity and surface tension that will fill a very small gap. That's what i'd try.

It's well worth a try before you tear down again, even if you just try red threadlocker.

hope it helps
John

 

[CharlieB]

Re: Excess carbon-heavy oil from V-6 200

While I don''t hold a lot of hope for chemical 'fixes', I would sure try it!

I'd be temped to pull the powerhead, build a cheap box that I could safely heat the whole powerhead to about 140. Hopefully the block will expand slightly more than the sleeve, making it easier to wick the chemical in.

Couple of sheets of plywood and a salamander heater should do it.

Any 'step' or unevenness of the sleeve to the block can be milled off, as long as you keep compression under 150, it should be fine with standard timing.