Exhaust Filler Block Cracked

[JoeW80]

I have a '98 Evinrude 115 hp with a rebuilt 2004 power head. My boat was stalling frequently and needed lots of gas when put into gear or it would stall. It intermittently had power loss. I keep the boat at a marina that requires me to have them perform all work on the engine. The mechanic told me there was water getting into the cylinders and that the head gasket was cracked but wanted to investigate further. He found the exhaust filler block was cracked (even though he told told me it was the engine block itself that was cracked). I uploaded a photo of someone else's engine but mine is cracked in the same exact location:



So the mechanic told me that the entire power head would need to be removed to send in to be rebuilt, costing between $3-4k. Or he could offer me a used engine that he knows someone is selling for half that price.

I did a little research and found that this exhaust filler block is not a permanent part of the block as the mechanic stated and it is replaceable, however it might require machining to keep the surfaces even and ensure a good seal.

So, I have a few questions:

1) What is the purpose of the exhaust filler block? Is it necessary?

2) Does this crack allow water to enter the cylinders? If not, could I just have them replace the head gasket leaving the filler block as is, or removing the filler blocks entirely?

3) I found part number Evinrude P/N 392000 is in stock at a distributer for $250 but it is listed for a 140hp engine even though it looks identical to mine in the photo... would this work on mine? Also, would it require machining?

4) Is it reasonable to rebuilt the power head for this problem?

I hope I'm not asking too many questions here. I'd appreciate any insight or advice even if you can't answer my questions. Thanks!

 

[Faztbullet]

1) It is a deflector and is necessary for the bubbleback exhaust to function properly...
2) No it wont allow water in cylinders unless mounting post is cracked as it on main water jacket. The picture that you posted does not show any evidence of steam cleaning from water intrusion, do you have a picture of your block?If it like the posted picuture you could replace gaskets and go as I doubt it (filler block) will move due to carbon build up around it.
3) Yes it will work and it would need machining.
4) No as it not causing your problem. Also they did not make the crossflow after 1998 so I doubt its a 2004 powerhead..maybe reman in 2004. If you have a 60degree 115( this could be a 2004) it don't have filler blocks and uses O-rings for head gaskets, post your model # so results will be for the correct engine.

 

[racerone]

The crack in the filler block is not a problem !---------What does compression show on the motor ?----What can you see as far as condition of pistons and rings with the exhaust covers removed.-------------I would put the boat on a trailer and get a second opinion here !!!

 

[emdsapmgr]

The problems you cite can be related to water in the cylinders. That occurs usually due to two problems. 1. The head gasket seal ring is damaged and leaking. A relatively easy/cheap fix. 2. The exhaust manifolds are leaking water into the exhaust chest. A more serious problem, as it's not an easy fix. When the manifolds leak water into the exhaust chest, it can easily find it's way into the lower (usually the bottom) cylinder-putting out the combustion fire. In order for the exhaust manfolds to function normally, the inner exhaust filler blocks (the ones your arrow points to) need to be intact and absolutely flush with the back deck of the powerhead. Once they crack, this back deck may no longer be perfectly flat. That out-of-flat condition can let water get pumped into the lower cyls. Bombardier used to sell an exhaust filler block replacement kit, which includes 2 new blocks and the bolts/retainers. Part # 392000. This part is discontinued, but this dealer still has a new kit in stock. See below. The cracked filler block can be replaced. But the whole back exhaust deck will need to be re-machined perfectly flat so that it mates correctly to the inner exhaust manifold. You'll need a good marine machinist to help you with this. The powerhead will have to be torn down prior to putting it on the grinder to machine it flat. Or consider a replacement powerhead.

DICKS MARINE SERVICE

32 N PISTAKEE RD

FOX LAKE

IL

60020

dicksmarine@sbcglobal.net

0392000

 

[racerone]

Had a 235 hp at one time.---1/2 of a filler block was missing.---Motor ran fine.

 

[JoeW80]

Thank you all for your responses. I'm getting a few different opinions here and elsewhere... some saying this crack can leak water into the cylinders and some saying that it's not the problem. So I'm not sure if I should just tell them to replace the head gasket and call it a day or if additional work is needed. Someone also told me I can try J-B Weld, which is interesting. I saw a youtube video of someone sealing an engine block crack with it but this location might be tricky, especially since a gasket sits on that surface.

As requested, I uploaded a couple photos of my engine. The first photo shows a close up of the crack in the exhaust filler block and the second photo shows the port-side cylinders. Not sure if the link is working but the two images are here: http://imgur.com/OtKbQ4d,KFmoXEi#0 and http://imgur.com/OtKbQ4d,KFmoXEi#1.

The engine ran fine except for this problem. As a matter of fact, the last time I used it a few weeks ago, it ran fine going out... got up on a plane and cruised at just about normal speed. Then it started giving me problems... stalling unless I gave it extra gas, power loss, and couldn't get it up on a plane. The mechanic didn't tell me compression numbers but said that the compression was fine, although one cylinder wasn't firing most likely because of the water. Then he said it was the head gasket, then he said it was this crack.

I'm an amateur with engines but I hate relying on this shop, because I feel like I'm not getting all the needed details. At this point, I'm not sure that I trust the shop is putting much effort into this and I'd like to know what you all would do. Could I just try J-B Weld (rated to 550 degrees F) and sand it down as good as possible to make it flush, and cross my fingers? Or should I have the engine block removed to replace the exhaust filler block?

 

[racerone]

????----JB weld will not fix that.----And no that piece missing is not a problem with your engine !!!----This will not leak water !--------FIND ANOTHER MECHANIC !

 

[JoeW80]

Racerone thanks for your reply. I was under the impression that water is flowing around that exhaust filler block and that it's sealed to keep the water out. When I saw the crack and was told that's where the water was getting in, it seemed to make sense.

So, if I understand correctly... this corroded crack/hole is just acting as an unintended but not so dangerous escape path for the exhaust? So I can leave this as is?

I'm going to have to take your suggestion and pull the boat out of there to get someone else to look at it to find the real source of the water. Time to register the trailer!

 

[racerone]

The filler blocks just guide the exhaust gasses out of the motor.--The filler block is not the problem on your motor !

 

[emdsapmgr]

Regarding your post #6: So if the mechanic said the head gasket was cracked, why not take his advice and replace it? It's the first place to look when you have water in the cyls. A cheap and easy task. Fix it first, then re-run the engine in the lake to recheck for water intrustion.

 

[JoeW80]

emdsapmgr, that's an excellent question and advice. I was thinking the same thing initially but the shop was telling me that there must be a reason for the cracked head gasket and wanted to continue looking further. The engine has never been overheated to my knowledge. Then when the mechanic found that filler block crack, they pointed to that as being the real issue. I've been skeptical but didn't know enough to tell them no. Thanks to everyone on here, I have a little more insight into the problem and can discuss my concerns with the shop. I'm going to have to pull the boat out of that place if they don't get their act together quick.