Failed Ignition Switch, causing problems?

[Scag]

Hello. This is my first time posting and I am excited to get some feedback. There seems to be a lot of good knowledge on this board!

My issue begins with a bad ignition switch. The last time I went to start my engine, I noticed the key would not stop at the lock. It would basically spin indefinitely. This made it pretty tricky at first because I could get the engine to start, but the ignition would continue to run even after the engine was already started. I was able to figure out that I could turn the key to start the engine, then back it off maybe a 1/8th of an inch to turn the starter off.

I have to fix this problem. I'm assuming this is a plug and play replacement. Do I have to get anything special (beyond something that is the same size)?

I was thinking something like this should work, but I am going to try to find a good deal. Is there anything I should stay away of, i.e. brand, type, plastic v. metal, etc.

I started noticing a rough idle and trouble starting when I was out on the water last. I figured I would fix this problem, then start diagnosing the rough idle, starting issues. Would I be correct to assume the method of starting this bad switch could be flooding the engine?

by the way...the boat is a 2001 ebbtide 190 campione with a mercruiser 4.3, also 2001.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Don S]

Re: Failed Ignition Switch, causing problems?

Hard to say what kind of switch you have. With some of the inst. panel setups some of the manufacturers use, it's impossible to even guess without a picture or something.

 

[Scag]

Re: Failed Ignition Switch, causing problems?

Hard to say what kind of switch you have. With some of the inst. panel setups some of the manufacturers use, it's impossible to even guess without a picture or something.

Thanks for the reply. In this case, I guess my assumption that the ignition lock assemblies were all similar is incorrect. I can take a picture of the exterior guage cluster, but all you would be able to see is the black plastic key entrance and bezel. Can you tell from just this?

What are the variables that I need to determine? Diameter of the assembly of course, correct? If the actual ignition switch provides the availability of voltage to the ignition coil, will there be differences in levels of voltage?

Looks like I will have to pull my existing assembly fully out before I know for sure.