FD-11 x2

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I have acquired a second FD-11. Both motors go through combustion cycle feeling great. The first I got is a complete mess. Stuff missing bushings worn, just a nightmare. However it had the power. It's only fault in the process of doing its job was showing symptoms described by the manual as a failing bell crank.

The new to me one, is in far superior condition. But the power just isn't there. Which I think should be easier and cheaper than trying to find a gearing gremlin.

My thought was to take the combustion part of the motor (power head? Sorry don't know correct terms) from the older to me motor and put it on the new to me one.

Old motor; no reverse, prop and shaft moves about 3/4-1" when I pull on the prop, the tabs for throttle and steering controls are gone. Terrible camo paint job.

New motor; only issue is low power.

How hard is it to change. Is there a better option? I have no private garage, no stand and no way to hook up hose. On the other hand I have a cd with manuals for 30+ years of Johnson Evinrude motors on it. Got it for 15$ on eBay. It's about 10 different PDF files.

 

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Another huge reason to do this rather than just move lower units is I am in the process of figuring out how to adapt mercury controls to it. Won't be using a starter. Just throttle and steering.

 

[oldboat1]

One -- pick the motor in the best condition and go with that. Switching lower units should not be a problem, if one of them works. I would start to trying to troubleshoot the power issue in the better motor -- if I understand what you are describing.

Two -- You need J&E cable ends for hook up to your motor (either throttle or shift). Additionally, the motor needs clips or posts to mount/secure the cables. If your Merc cables are threaded, you can probably find conversion ends. Otherwise, you might be better off finding a Johnson cable box with cables.

Three -- the '57 was built for steering cables, and there is a quick release clamp that was used. You may be able to find a clamp if you want to run cables. If you want to convert to a push-pull steering system, you need to rig a connector of some kind -- can use the old J&E clamp with one of the holes used for a bolt or quick connect post.

Four -- You need to build a stand for the motor(s). There are a number of tests you can do without actually running the motor (compression, spark).

Five -- Ebay and the AOMCI websites are good sources for finding the bits and pieces you are going to need (or figuring out what they are).

 

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Great information. Thank you! The clips for the cables are all there I think. For throttle they look like hooks. One points up and one points down. I think all I will need to fabricate is a sleeve to utilize push pull. The merc motor has it attached just above the transom clamps. The push pull and throttle shift cables I have might not have been specific to the motor that I took off. But, just in case it was a Kiekhaefer 500. Year 1961.

 

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I was reading on another topic that these older sea horse and evinrude motors had the possibility to run pretty smooth even if one cylinder was down. This would make sense as I think I'm getting about half power. I'll check the spark and do the cylinder drop test. In the mean time I'm also gonna look up Decarb procedures.

 

[tjandrews]

I have a '58 10HP Evinrude that developed a no reverse condition. Turned out the nut and lock washer that hold the shift rod to the bell crank had come off. Replacing them fixed the problem, but it required removing the powerhead to get to it.

But, I had zero endplay in the prop shaft. That makes me think your problem is in the gear case, rather than in the bell crank. Switching lower units between the two might be a viable option for you. No need to remove the power head to do that.

BTW, if you do end up removing the powerhead, be sure to get a new gasket for it.

 

[Chinewalker]

Might be easier to find out why the second motor is down on power. Compression good? Running on two cylinders? Might just need a head gasket or an ignition system refresh. Start with some basic troubleshooting....

 

[F_R]

Merc controls have pull-to-open throttles. OMC controls have push-to-open throttles. Even if you do manage to concoct some sort of attachment, the throttle will work backwards. Get the proper OMC control. There are plenty of them out there.

 

[oldboat1]

^^good point. (Not familiar with the Mercs -- had that situation with a Chrysler, though. I moved the cable box connection above the pivot screw, changing the push-pull direction. The cables I was thinking of are the Morse-style 3300 cables with threaded ends -- don't know if the '61 Merc would have used those.)

 

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The motor with low power is in far superior condition. Not only visually but all the way around. I will move the lower unit as a last resort only. The steering will be handled by the cable system that already has pulleys in place. I'll be able to troubleshoot more tonight and maybe some this weekend. The guy I got it from stated the only thing he did was replace a fuel hose. I'll do plugs of course, then look try the spark test and all that. If it gets messy I'll reconsider swapping lower units.

I pulled the lower unit from a 61 merc 500 and it was only 4 or 5 bolts. Will it be similar to this motor?

I also purchased a manual and have it in PDF format. Is there anywhere on the forum that could support it in its entirety? Or maybe broken down by chapters? I'd love to share it with others. Total page count in the PDF is 423 pages.

 

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The control ends almost look like they were for johnson. I'm wondering if someone didn't rig them to work for the merc.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...ls/10474098-controls-for-a-1957-johnson-fd-11

 

[tjandrews]

The motor with low power is in far superior condition. Not only visually but all the way around. I will move the lower unit as a last resort only. The steering will be handled by the cable system that already has pulleys in place. I'll be able to troubleshoot more tonight and maybe some this weekend. The guy I got it from stated the only thing he did was replace a fuel hose. I'll do plugs of course, then look try the spark test and all that. If it gets messy I'll reconsider swapping lower units.

I pulled the lower unit from a 61 merc 500 and it was only 4 or 5 bolts. Will it be similar to this motor?

I also purchased a manual and have it in PDF format. Is there anywhere on the forum that could support it in its entirety? Or maybe broken down by chapters? I'd love to share it with others. Total page count in the PDF is 423 pages.

If the guy you got it from is the original owner, and all he ever did was replace a fuel hose, then I'd say the primary suspect for low power is an ignition coil. Even if you have spark in both cylinders, I'd pop the flywheel and have a look. It's possible for a bad coil to produce a spark, but not one that will run the engine. Any cracks in the plastic mean that one needs to be replaced. And if both appear to be the same age, replace both.

Might be an idea to pop the flywheel on the one that DOES have power too, and have a look at that. If the coils in that motor look newer than the ones in the low power motor, switching the entire magneto plate might be a viable option. Of course, if your eventual goal is to get both units operational, stealing parts from one to put on the other isn't the best way of accomplishing that.

Pulling the lower unit on this one is almost that easy. You'll be wanting to do it soon anyway, as the water pump impeller is probably due for replacement. (Even if currently working.) There is a small access panel with two screws on the side of the leg. Remove that to expose the shift rod, and completely remove the lower cap screw in the clamp you see there. (This will allow the lower shift rod to drop out of the clamp later.) There are four cap screws and a nut holding the lower unit to the exhaust housing. Remove them and you should be able to pull it away from the rest, along with the drive shaft and lower shift rod.

As for the manual, that may not be possible. Someone probably owns the copyright, and without permission from the copyright owner, iboats can't legally make such material freely available.

 

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Ok so no PUBLIC posting of it.

I'll be checking these concerns you mentioned with coils today. I don't intend to run a dual setup. So making one solid motor is acceptable. The low power motor is just the one I want to use because it is in far better shape. The good running motor has bad bushings and it just moves left and right with no effort whatsoever. Its just in terrible conditon other than the powerhead functionality.

Thank you all for the responses! I appreciate the warm welcome and sharing of knowledge.

 

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I took it down to the points last night. I disconnected one of them to further investigate. They look almost new FYI. I put it all back together. Once on the water I noticed dramatic improvement. I thought I put it on the exact same way. Apparently I did something. After that I pulled the plugs which weren't too bad at all. The gap was off by just a touch. So at 1.96 each I just replaced and gapped the new. Bam! She's smokin again. I just don't understand what I did to get this result. Re-seating the points? Poor connection somewhere that I inadvertently corrected?

 

[tjandrews]

By "smokin' again," I hope you mean the power is no longer low.

Gap on that set of points could have been off. I bought a '58 10HP Evinrude at a garage sale this spring. (There's another thread about that) When I looked under the flywheel, I saw what looked like a brand-new magneto. However, when I checked the point gaps, I found one was OK, but the other was much too close. Setting it properly resulted in the type of dramatic improvement you describe.

 

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Yes power is back