FD-13 R questions

[IndyFish]

~~Just picked up a FD-13 R 1959 (but the serial number is 1964064) <---I'm guessing the serial number is a coincidence? At first I thought maybe it was a FD-18 which would be a 1964 and make since with the first four of the serial number, but it is clearly a 13, thus a 59'. I have looked over as many year model look up charts that are out there, any input welcome!
Second of all, I need to convert to a vacuum fuel line so I can start tinkering. I have looked all over and can not really find clear instructions for someone not familiar with this motor or these fuel pumps. Does anyone have a link that could direct me to a "how to" or explain what the bleepin bleep I need to drill and tap!? (I have looked around iboats with no luck. I'm sure it's here, but someone lead the blind please!) Thanks
I've downloaded and printed the manuals and parts catalog online and started getting familiar with the motor. I've done several other services and tune ups, impellers, magnetos, etc.... and am mechanically inclined so I should be ok with the rest of the deal.
I'm missing the front plate, knobs, and air silencer (commonly called airbox) for the motor. I'm sure someone took it off so they could possibly destroy the motor with starting spray and lost them. I can make a choke lever and knob, and the stem for the air fuel adjustment is there, just knob missing (no big deal). What I really need is one of the air silencers (air box) and the getup that goes with it. Anyone have any ideas?
BTW- I paid $35 for the motor after spotting it in the back of a guys garage at a garage sale. Degreased the whole thing (plugged up the carb with bags), and it looks pretty good for a 59'
Thanks in advance!

 

[IndyFish]

Never mind a about the face plate or the air silencer. I found both of them online for about 20 a piece.

 

[IndyFish]

And furthermore.... I have the wrong carb. This is turning into an expensive $35 motor! It looks nothing like the carb in the parts diagram, and the linkages are all made out of thick wire with some pliers. It must be a Johnson or Evinrude carb because it mates to the motor, but like I said, no similarity to anything I can find online.

 

[HighTrim]

I assume you want to modify to run a fuel pump and single line tank?

Step 1 change the fuel connector to take a single line tank connector
Step 2 Cut off the line coming off the bottom of the intake manifold, which USED to go to the fuel connector, AIR fitting, and plug it with a bolt.
Step 3 Remove one of the bypass covers (see powerhead group in your parts manual) drill and tap for a fuel barb. Install barb, reinstall cover.
Step 4 Mount fuel pump and route new fuel line.
Step 5 Drink Beer

 

[IndyFish]

You got step 5 in the wrong place! that belongs in step 1

 

[F_R]

Indy, the 1964 in the serial number is NOT the year. It merely means that it is the 1,964,064th motor they produced since starting with number 1 (or whatever number they started with) FD-13 is the model number and the one that indicates the year (on a chart).

 

[IndyFish]

Step 1... by fuel connector do you mean the lines coming off of the bowl? (between the tank and the carb) step 2... This is the line going from the bottom of the engine directly to the tank connector step 3.... I think I've found the bypass covers (there are two?) step 4.....just to be sure... the line from the bypass cover "runs" the pump, then obviously the line from the tank, and another to the carb. Does that seem right?

 

[IndyFish]

Indy, the 1964 in the serial number is NOT the year. It merely means that it is the 1,964,064th motor they produced since starting with number 1 (or whatever number they started with) FD-13 is the model number and the one that indicates the year (on a chart).

Thanks for the clarification! like I said, I was pretty sure it was a coincidence.

 

[IndyFish]

I assume you want to modify to run a fuel pump and single line tank?

Step 1 change the fuel connector to take a single line tank connector
Step 2 Cut off the line coming off the bottom of the intake manifold, which USED to go to the fuel connector, AIR fitting, and plug it with a bolt.
Step 3 Remove one of the bypass covers (see powerhead group in your parts manual) drill and tap for a fuel barb. Install barb, reinstall cover.
Step 4 Mount fuel pump and route new fuel line.
Step 5 Drink Beer

Does it matter where on the bypass cover you drill? Also how big of lines do I need, 3/16, 1/4''... etc and what is the pump model I should get?

 

[IndyFish]

sorry it keeps jumbling up my posts, it keeps slurring everything together no matter how I space it out. I'm without a computer right now and it's a little hard to do this on a phone!

 

[F_R]

I haven't bothered wading through the "steps" that he wrote, because it is so elementary to me. But I appreciate the effort taken for somebody obviously confused about how it works. If I may:

The pump contains a thin rubber diaphragm that moves back and forth. That back and forth movement is what moves the fuel. The diaphragm is moved back and forth by pressure pulses tapped off the crankcase. The pressure pulses are a result of the piston moving back and forth in the cylinder as it runs. The bypass covers are the most convenient way of accessing those pulses. Yes, "bypass covers" are those two covers on one side of the cylinder block.

Your pump should have three hose nipples, Fuel IN, Fuel OUT, and Pulse. Where they go is obvious.

 

[IndyFish]

I haven't bothered wading through the "steps" that he wrote, because it is so elementary to me. But I appreciate the effort taken for somebody obviously confused about how it works. If I may:

The pump contains a thin rubber diaphragm that moves back and forth. That back and forth movement is what moves the fuel. The diaphragm is moved back and forth by pressure pulses tapped off the crankcase. The pressure pulses are a result of the piston moving back and forth in the cylinder as it runs. The bypass covers are the most convenient way of accessing those pulses. Yes, "bypass covers" are those two covers on one side of the cylinder block.

Your pump should have three hose nipples, Fuel IN, Fuel OUT, and Pulse. Where they go is obvious.

Thank you for the explanation! I refuse to do something that I don't understand, and was having a hard time finding exactly what and why to do. Like I said before, I'm no marine mechanic, but I do my best to maintain and add to my collection.

I've ordered the fuel pump, and I will scavenge for the rest of that at auto/hardware stores. Also got the impeller kit and lower unit seals ordered. I really appreciate the help!

Last order on my list for suggestions is a carb. The one that is on there is definitely not right. I will try to upload a picture. My question is will a 1963 carb work on a 1959. I know someone is going to jump my sh** and say I should do my own research and I just want you know that I have. They have different part numbers but look as identical as I can tell. Here is the link to the one I'm looking at. It has the linkages and the knobs for the adjustments that I need as well. Let me know what ya'll think! I can't get the hyperlink to work...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-Johnso..._Accessories_Gear&hash=item338ffaebf1&vxp=mtr

 

[IndyFish]

I have both of the parts diagrams pulled up side by side from marineengine.com and the carbs themselves look the same. Obviously the float, needle, and all that junk are the same, along with bowl gasket. The body's themselves look the same as well. The only difference I can really find is that the 59' has the big goofy air silencer canister on it, and the 63' has the small air sponge plate deal. And they have different needle valves for idle adjustment. (I'm guessing that it has to do with the difference of air canisters)