Few questions about a 35 hp Chrysler.

[jparker7099]

I have a few different questions for yall. I just recently purchased an older tri hull boat (it is a Caddo I believe) with a Chrysler 35 hp motor. I had it out about 2 weeks for the first time. Rode it around for about and hour and used about 3 gallons of gas, does that sound about right?

Also the boat has a hard time getting on plane, it wants to just push though the water pretty hard. I added a dolphin to the motor hoping that will help some. It is really heavy in the back. Fuel tank, cranking battery, and me, I weigh right at 320. I sit a little be forward in the boat about halfway. Any other ideas?

The last question is on the back with the tilt pin is, the locking mechanism does not work from what I can tell. Is there an easy way to fix that? I can post pictures tonight when I get home.

I hope I posted this in the right spot.

Thanks
Jimmy.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Few questions about a 35 hp Chrysler.

That 35 was a workhorse: Chrysler made lots of them and people put them on all kinds of boats. While it was reliable, it was never a powerhouse so depending on your boat and prop, you may be underpowered. And if you are plowing water and not getting onto plane, you are probably using a little more fuel than you should. But remember that these outboards are not like cars-- you don't get great gas mileage.

If I understand you correctly and you are plowing water, the engine may be tilted incorrectly. USUALLY the engine leg should be vertical and the cavitation plate should be parallel to the water and even with the bottom of the hull when running. On most boats this works out having the the tilt pin being in the third hole out from the transom.

Since this engine is the smallest in the 35, 45, 55 HP series, and since all used the same three pitched props, you may also be overpropped. Look at the propeller: If it is the original aluminum, one blade near the root will have the numbers stamped. 10 3/8 (diameter) X 11, 12, or 13 (pitch). If your boat is a heavy load, 10 3/8 X 11 is the closest correct prop. If it is not the stock prop, the numbers will be stamped somewhere on the hub.

Now, if the tilt lock mechanism is not working, the stainless cable may be broken, Under the front of the engine should be a black button. If you pull this button out, the cable lifts the lock plate and then the engine settles onto the tilt pin. Usually, the lock plate is adjusted so that when the engine drops to running position, it rides over the tilt pin and locks the engine down, If the cable is broken, the lock plate will tilt down too far and not ride over the tilt pin. Temporarily, you can lift the plate with a stick or you finger--be careful-- when you lower the engine.

Some engines--I don't think yours-- had a lever that was turned in place of the black button. This was connected to an adjustable rod that actuated the lock plate.

 

[jparker7099]

Re: Few questions about a 35 hp Chrysler.

Thanks for the reply.
Here a few pictures of the tilt lock.

The little rod is just dangling and haning there.

I have this little lever under the motor, is this the one you are talking about?

This is what i am talking about plowing the water.

The prop number is 10x13.5 from the best i can tell.

Thanks again for the help.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Few questions about a 35 hp Chrysler.

Yup! That black lever is the lock release/ actuator and the bent rod should be almost straight with a slight bend at the top. At this time, unscrew the nut below the lock plate and remove the rod---it is just getting in your way. Then just lift up the plate to ride over the tilt pin when you lower the engine. It should be spring loaded and snap down over the tilt pin.

The lever on the front is connected to a shaft underneath the tilt and swivel casting. This shaft should have a plastic piece attached to it and the top of the rod connects to it. It is most likely broken--that's why the rod fell down and was bent. It's one of those deceptively simple things that is difficult to get and a pain in the butt to fix.

These are the types of parts that Franz Marine at the Chrysler Crew would have if you really want to replace them. He has a website at The Chrysler Crew or you can go to the chat room tonight at 9PM eastern time.

I see what you mean about plowing water. She doesn't look like a big boat--say 13 or 14 foot and she seems to be sitting awfully low in the stern. Looks like she is just not getting up out of the water. Being a tri-hull, she should be riding high and flat like a Whaler. The 35 isn't or shouldn't be that weak. See if there are rubber plugs between the floor and bottom, back by the transom. If there are, remove them and see if she has a lot of water trapped there. You would be surprised at how much weight it will add. If you do not have any trapped water, try tilting the engine in a hole at a time to see if you can find a better running position.

And judging by your numbers, the prop has too much pitch, not letting the engine rev up and develop its full horsepower. If you can find a cheap one , try a 10 or 10 3/8 X 11 inch pitch.

Of course, do some basic checks on the engine to be sure it is producing a full 35 HP. Do a compression check, check that the carb is opening fully at wide open throttle, replace the fuel pump diaphragm--on an engine that old, it must be hard or defective. If not, it only costs 3 bucks--cheap--consider it preventive maintenance. Double check the spark plugs and remove the flywheel and replace or dress and reset the points and condensers..

Difficult to tell from the photos but that looks like it may be a 35 from the 20, 25, 35 series engines. Is the starter motor located on the starboard side of the engine? Are the plugs angled in the head? (20, 25, 35) Or do they stick straight out the back? (35, 45, 55) If you contact Franz, be sure you have the model and serial number--should be somewhere inside the hood on the bottom engine pan (support plate).

 

[jparker7099]

Re: Few questions about a 35 hp Chrysler.

Well I guess now I know what the stick is for that is laying in the splashwell, and has string tied to it. One question is how does the motor lock in the up position? I can not seem to make it lock up there.

All the plugs are out of the boat. Not water drains even after being on the water for a while. Maybe a cup full or two. The plug is in the livewell too. It has a cranking battery and a gas tank back there. The tank is % gallons. And yes the boat is 14 foot. I will try tilting the engine next time I go out. Going to be warm this weekend and need something productive to do.

I will do a little more looking at the engine, I already changed the plugs out. You have a good recomdation on plugs?

The plugs also go straight in to the head.

Also is 50:1 the right mixture of the gas oil?

 

[jparker7099]

Re: Few questions about a 35 hp Chrysler.

Thanks again for you help.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Few questions about a 35 hp Chrysler.

Better photo makes a difference. That is a 35 of the 35, 45, 55 series.

On the port side engine clamp there is a hole. Inside the clamp there should be a wide flat headed bolt with a belleville washer there. A piece of bent stainless with an "L" shaped slot in it pivots on this bolt. The slot rides over a similar bolt screwed into the tilt and swivel casting. this locks the engine up in tilted position. IT IS NOT TO BE USED FOR TOWING! It is neither strong enough or secure enough for towing purposes. To release the engine, you lift it slightly and lift up on the plate then lower the engine.

Looking at your photo I also see that the tilt pin is in the second hole out from the transom. Try the other positions and see if they help--but tilting the engine further out usually has the effect of raising the bow and would probably aggravate your problem.

Couple of other observations: The boat looks very narrow in the stern --not much more than 4 feet wide. Weight in the stern will really cause problems. Also: Boats this small and old usually had 15 inch high transoms. Because of the angle of the photo I can't tell transom height. BUT: That definitely is a 20 inch engine. Is the cavitation plate substantially even with the bottom? If it is too long, the cav plate will be 4 or more inches below the bottom causing a lot of drag and loss of power due to higher exhaust back pressure. Black rubber bungee looks to be horizontal and if it is attached to the trailer, the engine is definitely sitting too low in the water. Also, the water stain on the lower unit is too high also indicating that the engine is sitting too deep in the water.

50 to 1 is the correct mix. Also, judging by the hood and the fact that there is no 5 inch extension to convert the engine to 20 inch shaft, yours is a newer model Chrysler.

Original plugs were Champion L4J. They are no longer made. Nearest equivalent would be NGK B8S, Autolite 2635, or AC M42FF.

 

[jparker7099]

Re: Few questions about a 35 hp Chrysler.

Thanks Frank.
I have half of the tilt lock, I have the flat headed bolt stuck out there. I dont have the other half, the bent slide piece.

 

[jparker7099]

Re: Few questions about a 35 hp Chrysler.

A few more questions, real quick.

I carried the boat out today. I would not start acted like it was flooded. I let it set for a while, then it would crank and then die again. Put back on the trailer and came home. Got home hooked the hose to it, and it cranked on about the second try, and idled for a while. What is the proper cranking procedure for the motor?
I pulled the plugs out today and they are black and real wet, so I am assuming that I flooded the motor and maybe fouled the plugs. ??


Thanks again for all your help
Jimmy

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Few questions about a 35 hp Chrysler.

With most Chrysler engines, if you do not advance timing for starting, they will be very difficult to start or may not start at all. Older automobiles had an advance built into the distributor and new autos have the computer do it. The Chrysler outboards must be manually advanced.

Assuming you have a Chrysler control box: First you pull out the silver knob in the box. This disengages the shift mechanism. Then you advance the throttle lever as far as it will go (about 1/3 of the travel) This advances the timing slightly and opens the carbs very slightly for starting, and about 1500-2000 rpm warm-up. Push in the key while turning it to start position to choke engine (only when cold). release when engine starts. You should not need to choke after the first start. You may or may not need to advance throttle after the engine is warm.

After engine has warmed up, return the throttle lever to vertical and push in the silver button to re-engage the shift. Now, when you push forward the throttle lever briskly, the engine will shift before the throttle advances. further advancing of the lever will increase speed.

Frustrating, isn't it, when the engine seems to be allergic to water but runs well in the driveway?

Wet black plugs would be indicative of possible fouling due to flooding. If you suspect you have flooded the engine, remove the plugs and crank for a few seconds to clear out the engine. Dry the plugs and replace them then try to re-start like a cold start.

 

[jparker7099]

Re: Few questions about a 35 hp Chrysler.

Ok, so I carried the boat out today, cranked right up using the directions that you gave. Thanks for that. Made it a whole lot easier. Idled around for a bit, then when I have it throttle, it ran fine. Then about 10 mins later, I went to turn, made the turn, the motor kind of acted like it was going to die, then, just went to almost idling, then died. It would crank back up for a mintute or two then die. Loaded back on the trailer, and headed home. Decided to try one more time before I left the water. I did the same thing ran good then died in about 10 mins. I pulled the cover off once I got it back on the trailer, there was a little water in the top of the motor.

So now I am clueless.

Thanks again for all your help.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Few questions about a 35 hp Chrysler.

Is it a magneto ignition engine? If it is magneto,there will be no coils visible; if it is NOT magneto, there will be two coils on the port side of the engine.

The reason I ask is because that sounds suspiciously like 1 or 2 bad condensers on a magneto ignition engine. They heat up and short out and the engine loses fire. Then they cool down and the engine will fire 'till they heat up again. Pull the flywheel and dress or replace both points, and replace the condensers. Parts will cost about 50 bucks--last time I bought points it was 18 bucks each. Condensers are probably 3-5 bucks each. If you don't have one, get a good heavy duty flywheel puller or make a rugged one yourself. That flywheel is a difficult one to pull. Also, on either ignition system, if you have gotten water up under the flywheel, it could be shorting the points---but then the engine would not fire at all.

Points are set to .020 open and be sure both are equal. .0015 difference is 1 degree timing, so be careful and precise.

The other thing you need to check is that you don't have a partial clog somewhere in the fuel system and the engine is running out of fuel. First and easiest thing to do is to pull the screen--black plastic on the side of fuel pump--and be sure it is clean. Your engine looks like a newer model--however, if it is an older model there will be a glass bowl on the fuel pump and a screen up inside it. Then check the rest of the fuel system and take apart the fuel pump and replace the diaphragm.

Be sure to torque down the flywheel nut to 90-95 foot pounds when you replace it. Failure to do so will cause the flywheel to kick on first start and break the key. Then you need to do it all over again.

Parts can be had from franzmarine@aol.com.

 

[jparker7099]

Re: Few questions about a 35 hp Chrysler.

Ok, thanks I will look into doing the igntion parts. Dressing points as in clean and debur them? I have a puller like you would use to pull a steering wheel on a car. Will that work for pulling the fly wheel?

The kind of has me thinking. I changed the tank, fuel line and bulb saturday before going to the water. I was out there a while ago and was squeezing the primer bulb and heard air a bit. Then I noticed the top of the tank was a little wet from gas, and the bulb never would get hard. After squeezing it for a bit to see if i could see where the fuel was coming from, I notice where it was also coming out the exhaust on the foot. I am thinking that can not be a good thing or is it normal?

I am leaning more towards the fuel, since it ran fine a week ago, and now since I changed the tank and lines it it doing this.

Also I have been reading alot about seafoam and mercury power tune. Would that hurt to use on this motor?

The model # is 355hg and Serial # 1107

Thanks again for all your help.
Jimmy

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Few questions about a 35 hp Chrysler.

Gas leaking out the exhaust is not a major deal or repair. If you have a stuck float or a bad inlet needle, AND if the engine is tilted back so the excess gas flows into the engine instead of leaking out the front of the carb, THEN excess gasoline that you pump into it will flow through the engine and eventually work its way out through the exhaust.

If you are seeing wet fuel arount the tank top and hearing air leaks, then you have a smoking gun and that would be the first place to investigate.

Don,t forget though, that if you crank the engine a lot in trying to start it and you have choked it or flooded it, then raw gas will also exit the exhaust without anything being wrong with the carb.

As for Seafoam, there are a lot of guys on this forum who swear by it. I have never used it and currently I do not see a need for it in any of my engines--but, couldn't hurt and might help---or so they say. Make your own decision about it.

A steering wheel puller will work on other 3 and 4 cylinder flywheels but is not big enough to reach the screw holes on the 35 flywheel. (You unbolt the three bolts holding down the rope flange and use the holes for the puller)