Finnish fishing boat overhaul [Splashed 2017]

[GA_Boater]

That's what I was thinking of, too. ^^^^

Or a large rubber stopper/cork with a hole for a bolt and wingnut.

 

[Swoosh3]

I too have been following your thread, Impressive is understateing things.

Your engine vents could use a guillotine valve, also known as a knife valve or gate valve.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/3-slide-valve-with-gate-seals/6382

I'm thinking with your skill set you could fashion your own to suit your specific needs.
Also,
a simple ball valve would likely be enough.

You are an inspiration!!

 

[kcassells]

I would like to know more about the application. Different materials use and what are we trying to be able to close or vent out?

 

[GA_Boater]

From what Red posted a page or 2 back, it's an elbow of sorts that drains the deck to the bilge in case water comes in. He wants the ability to close the elbow if the a lot of water comes over the side.

 

[Red Herring]

So many good ideas! Thanks everyone, got much food for thought now. A local builder said it would be overkill, so I might be even more inclined building the closing mechanism. Still need to figure out which solution..

They're the engine room ventilation pipes. Still missing the topside duct, dorade box and ss louvered vent. I'll see if I can draw a sketch.

 

[Red Herring]

Haha, a sketchy sketch made in the subway with an Iphone.

 

[kcassells]

This puts it into perspective for me. OK Ok now.
[h=1]Dorade box[/h] From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

A cutaway diagram of a Dorade Box. The red arrows show the desired airflow (into the cabin) and the blue arrows show the desired water flow (out the scupper onto the deck). The grey area indicates the deck of the boat.​

A dorade box (also called a dorade vent, collector box, Charlie Noble or simply a "ventilator") is a type ofvent that permits the passage of air in and out of the cabin or engine room of a boat while keeping rain, spray, and sea wash out.
The basic form is a low, rectangular box fixed to the deck or cabin top, fitted with interleaving vertical baffles. The baffles alternate to be free at the floor of the box, or free at the ceiling, forming a series of chambers.
A horn-shaped ventilation cowl is usually fitted facing forward to a large hole at the top of the chamber at one end of the box with another large hole opening down into the boat from the chamber at the other end. Limber holes perforate the wall of the box at the floor of each chamber.
Dorade boxes operate on the principle that air can pass relatively freely through the chambers, yet rain or sea wash will be trapped in successive chambers and drain out the small holes in the sides of the box.
The principle can be applied to other forms. For example, one variant has a circular layout with the baffles as concentric rings.
[h=2]Origin[edit][/h] The first appearance of Dorade boxes was on the Olin Stephens-designed Dorade, a yacht built in 1929 for ocean racing.[SUP][1][/SUP] As originally built, the Dorade's vents led directly below, but this was found to allow water below, and the vents were modified in the early 1930s.

 

[Red Herring]

Yeah, that's it. Just a variant with air intake from the side. Another questionable sketch:

 

[GA_Boater]

Someday I'll learn how to read. Dorade engine air vents. :doh:

As long as the box has some water drains and a high vent pipe, I don't think you need to block the vent. The vent won't be attached to the engine intake, so any water that does happen to go down the vent pipe will go to the bilge. See - I got the bilge back into the design.

 

[gm280]

Someday I'll learn how to read. Dorade engine air vents. :doh:

As long as the box has some water drains and a high vent pipe, I don't think you need to block the vent. The vent won't be attached to the engine intake, so any water that does happen to go down the vent pipe will go to the bilge. See - I got the bilge back into the design.

Okay GA_Boater, is this one of your color by numbers attempts? :facepalm:

 

[GA_Boater]

If you would look! :facepalm:

 

[kcassells]

Yup that would do it. Keep the weep holes low. Also they'll let air in too. How many are you putting in. Seems at least 2 for aeration purposes. Goes from one end to the other of the boat or one side to the other. However you place them. So keep it simple stupid the design works. There are alot of alternate designs that include rubber diaphrams, springs to ping pong balls as check valves.
I like the old brass "tuba" looking types myself. But your design makes it less susceptible to being damaged. Apparently placement, direction of openings for air inlet/escape, size of holes drilled to let the water out effect the value of the unit altogether and their purpose.
Good stuff, thanks for the chance to let me know what they do and how they work. lol... I thought they were like/used old string and cups to talk to lower deck hands from above.
"all hands on deck"

 

[Red Herring]

I'll keep it simple, the two holes down below are a little bit oval, so it'll make this a bit complicated anyway. It's going to drain outside through the vent. There's two of those vents.

 

[Red Herring]

Now it's hatch factory time again. Some small stuff left with the deck but the main structure is up!

 

[Woodonglass]

Red, it's been awhile since I've checked in. WOW, you've done some GREAT WORK!!!! I'm really looking forward to seeing her finished and on the water. Keep up the outstanding progress!!!

 

[Red Herring]

Thanks sensei Woodonglass! I'm anxiously waiting to get her finished as well, now since the site is right next to my flat my life circles around the boat 24/7. I dream about building, I talk about building and plan how to build in between actually building.

Today I'm taking a day off, so now I'm naturally in the planning phase. One of the biggest headaches left is the head compartment. The boat cabin is very close to being too small for a dedicated head, but I know as a fact that it's going to be the first thing I'll want to add if I omit it now.

So currently I'm aiming to build it to the left from the cabin door, behind the passenger seat. The wall towards the seat will be slanted. The height is approx 150cm(59in), which is 30cm(11.8in)short of my own height, and considerably more lacking with many of my friends. The C-head mini is quite low though at 33cm(12.9in), so I know the headroom is fine while sitting down. but it's the business of sitting down for business that's confusing me a bit. The elbow room is ok at about 60cm(23.6in) even if the bowl isn't exactly centered, so there's more on the left than on the right. The slanted front wall makes crouching forward a bit cramped, so one would basically have to sit down sideways. I can easily add grab handles to accommodate this maneuver, but I guess almost the whole side wall should be a sliding door of some kind to make this possible? And how that should be built is currently beyond me, but I guess it's just about finding out. If I'll add a normal swing door it has to be very narrow(unless it would be divided in three parts and hinged?), and that would at worst lead to the user having to crouch while backtracking inside the compartment somehow.

I'll draw some more dubious sketches, hopefully someone has some ideas on how to do this as simple and stupid as all the rest in the boat

 

[Red Herring]

So I guess my actual question is, do you think this will work? And how would you solve the door?

 

[Red Herring]

The scale is off in the drawing, quite badly even The length or width of the compartment can't be that long. It has to be a compromise between how far up front the passenger has to sit and comfort in the head. So I'm guessing it'll end up close to 80cm wide or long, however you look at it. I didn't add any numbers there yet since I'm trying to figure out the minimum size somehow before making any decisions.

 

[Mikeopsycho]

I'd put in a narrow swinging door that opens out. Fully open it would bump up against the lower step of the stairs. That's how my head compartment is orientated. The dimensions of mine are 86cm (34") deep X 84cm (33") wide, quite a bit roomier than what yours will be, although mine also contains a vanity cabinet with sink that runs the full width and is about 30cm deep, so that reduces the elbow room somewhat. My door is 46cm (18") wide.

The headroom might make any stand-up functions difficult, but any discreet corner and a bailing bucket could work, the contents of said bucket then deposited into the head.

 

[Bayou Dave]

You could try an accordian type door. Cut it to fit the largest opening you can get. Something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Spectrum-CT32...qid=1449864448&sr=8-6&keywords=accordion+door